Apparently Im too dumb to install clutch cable

I know this has to be one of the most simple things to do, but I'm screwing it up. I have good pressure on the clutch lever. If anything it feels a little tight but not horrible.

I was about to test ride it, fired up, put it in gear, let out clutch and nothing, almost like I'm in neutral. If I rev it up the bike will barely creep, and I mean barely.

Can anyone tell me what I did wrong?

It needs adjusting.You have to leave a little slack in the cable adjustment. Make sure the adjustment up on the clutch lever is screwed all the way in. There is also a place in the middle of the cable usually where you can make an adjustment.Loosen that and shorten it up. Some cables will also have a threaded section down on the bottom of the cable where you can adjust also.Keep shortening it up until you get slack.

Splandman wrote:

I know this has to be one of the most simple things to do, but I'm screwing it up. I have good pressure on the clutch lever. If anything it feels a little tight but not horrible.

I was about to test ride it, fired up, put it in gear, let out clutch and nothing, almost like I'm in neutral. If I rev it up the bike will barely creep, and I mean barely.

Can anyone tell me what I did wrong?

Probably time to perform the dreaded 30 second clutch push rod adjustment.

Good Luck!

do you have a manual?

Yeah, its a manual specific for a shaft drive and this bike is my 76 but most of that stuff looks similar. I need to quit being lazy and buy one specific for this model.

txturbo wrote:

It needs adjusting.You have to leave a little slack in the cable adjustment. Make sure the adjustment up on the clutch lever is screwed all the way in. There is also a place in the middle of the cable usually where you can make an adjustment.Loosen that and shorten it up. Some cables will also have a threaded section down on the bottom of the cable where you can adjust also.Keep shortening it up until you get slack.

I will give this a try shortly. Earlier when I messed with that middle part of the cable and did what I thought was tightening it, I had no pressure on the clutch handle. Backed it off to where about a 1/2 inch of threads where showing and it tightened up again and I thought it was good.

Pretty sad I'm having trouble with this. I was rebuilding heads and doing valve jobs on car engines at 15 in auto mechanics and I can't change a clutch cable.

When the hand lever is squeezed, the fitting at low end of cable underneath the cover rotates to push against a rod which presses the plates apart by overcoming the spring pressure.

When the hand lever is released, the fitting at low end of cable rotates away from the rod which allows the springs to press the plates together.

If there's not a slight gap between the fitting and the rod, the rod always stays pushed a little bit, which keeps on holding the plates apart.

The push rod adjustment is assuring that the correct gap exists while the hand lever stays released. Thereby allowing the springs to hold the plates fully closed together.

Betcha the basic adjustment procedure is the same for both the chain and shaft drive models.

Good Luck!

Splandman wrote:

txturbo wrote:

It needs adjusting.You have to leave a little slack in the cable adjustment. Make sure the adjustment up on the clutch lever is screwed all the way in. There is also a place in the middle of the cable usually where you can make an adjustment.Loosen that and shorten it up. Some cables will also have a threaded section down on the bottom of the cable where you can adjust also.Keep shortening it up until you get slack.

I will give this a try shortly. Earlier when I messed with that middle part of the cable and did what I thought was tightening it, I had no pressure on the clutch handle. Backed it off to where about a 1/2 inch of threads where showing and it tightened up again and I thought it was good.

Pretty sad I'm having trouble with this. I was rebuilding heads and doing valve jobs on car engines at 15 in auto mechanics and I can't change a clutch cable.

its all good.....go down to the side cover above the shifter and remove the teardrop cover..this is after you have closed the gap on the mid-adjuster and closed up the lever adjuster all the way....there is a screw/locknut deal....un-do lock nut and turn screw in till you feel decent opposition and then back it out 1/2 turn..hold screw with screwdriver and tighten locknut...put teardrop cover back on....go to mid adjuster and open it up untill the slack is gone...keep going back to lever to check progress....final fine adjustment is made at lever....if
i remember correctly looking for 3/8 freeplay.....dont have manual in front of me, but this should get you 99.9% there...good luck

Patton wrote:

Splandman wrote:

I know this has to be one of the most simple things to do, but I'm screwing it up. I have good pressure on the clutch lever. If anything it feels a little tight but not horrible.

I was about to test ride it, fired up, put it in gear, let out clutch and nothing, almost like I'm in neutral. If I rev it up the bike will barely creep, and I mean barely.

Can anyone tell me what I did wrong?

Probably time to perform the dreaded 30 second clutch push rod adjustment.

Good Luck!

plummen is correct. first make sure you have turned the two cable adjuster in so you have created the most slack by making the outer cable cover as short possible. install the new cable at the bar lever first. you need to rotate both the lager and small perch adjusters to line these up to feed the cable thru. after the cable end is in the lever run the two perch adjusters in for the most slack. then route the cable in front of the top triple tree. then feed the new cable behind the lower tree close to the head tube. at this point turn the front wheel side to side, you don't want to see the new cable see any have tight bends created by routing it this way. because i can't see your bike and if it has bars that are stock or not you must test that the routing works on your bike. if not experiment until you find a routing that does not cause a tight bend in the cable at the steering head. then run the cable down the left down tube. in front of and then to the outside of the down.tube. then back under the front of the mag cover and ending up on the bottem side of the left side sprocket cover. make sure the return spring is placed right and the cable end has the small cotter pin in place to prevent the cable from coming out of the cable lever. install the cover and tighten the cover screws. now adjust the rod adjustment screw. now, you did not state what size or model bike you have. do you a manual for your bike? on most early kz's you loosen the lock nut and turn the screw IN until you feel it lightly seat then out a 1/4 turn. on later kz's on some models the screw is turned out until it seats then IN a 1/4 turn. you really must find out the right way to turn the adjustment screw for your bike. after the screw is adjusted hold the screw at that point and tighten the lock nut. next adjust the mid point cable adjuster out(making the outer cable cover longer) until at the clutch lever you are showing about 10~8 mm of free play. set the min point lock screw to hold the that adjustment. now turn out the small cable holder out from the perch. 4~5mm free play is good. tighten the large lock. your clutch cable is now set.

keith1 wrote:

its all good.....go down to the side cover above the shifter and remove the teardrop cover..this is after you have closed the gap on the mid-adjuster and closed up the lever adjuster all the way....there is a screw/locknut deal....un-do lock nut and turn screw in till you feel decent opposition and then back it out 1/2 turn..hold screw with screwdriver and tighten locknut...put teardrop cover back on....go to mid adjuster and open it up untill the slack is gone...keep going back to lever to check progress....final fine adjustment is made at lever....if
i remember correctly looking for 3/8 freeplay.....dont have manual in front of me, but this should get you 99.9% there...good luck

...turn screw in till you feel decent opposition and then back it out 1/2 turn..hold screw with screwdriver and tighten locknut

Am uncertain about this particular model bike, but some models have adjusters that operate the opposite way, so if the problem persists after following the above procedure, try again by turning screw OUT till you feel decent opposition and then back it IN 1/2 turn..hold screw with screwdriver and tighten locknut....

Some of the aftermarket shop manuals are apparently incorrect about which way to turn the adjustment screw when first removing the gap and then creating the required gap.

Am thinking the official Kawasaki Factory Service Manual will be correct and easy enough to follow.

Good Luck!

Patton wrote:

keith1 wrote:

its all good.....go down to the side cover above the shifter and remove the teardrop cover..this is after you have closed the gap on the mid-adjuster and closed up the lever adjuster all the way....there is a screw/locknut deal....un-do lock nut and turn screw in till you feel decent opposition and then back it out 1/2 turn..hold screw with screwdriver and tighten locknut...put teardrop cover back on....go to mid adjuster and open it up untill the slack is gone...keep going back to lever to check progress....final fine adjustment is made at lever....if
i remember correctly looking for 3/8 freeplay.....dont have manual in front of me, but this should get you 99.9% there...good luck

...turn screw in till you feel decent opposition and then back it out 1/2 turn..hold screw with screwdriver and tighten locknut

Am uncertain about this particular model bike, but some models have adjusters that operate the opposite way, so if the problem persists after following the above procedure, try again by turning screw OUT till you feel decent opposition and then back it IN 1/2 turn..hold screw with screwdriver and tighten locknut....

Some of the aftermarket shop manuals are apparently incorrect about which way to turn the adjustment screw when first removing the gap and then creating the required gap.

Am thinking the official Kawasaki Factory Service Manual will be correct and easy enough to follow.

Good Luck!

alright, i have the manual for the 76 900 right in front of me.....its pretty much what i posted loosen the locknut and unscrew 3-4 turns....now tighten it untill its hard to turn and back it out 1/2 turn...tighten locknut....do mid adjuster as noted previously and manual is looking for 1/16 to 1/8 at lever.....this is right out of manual for 73-77 900/1000 cc fours ...hope it helps

I really appreciate all the responses. Had some crap come up and will have to wait til morning, then I will get out there and get it fixed.
Thanks again.