Newly rebuilt motor start up procedure

Hey guys, it has been a long time since I started my project 81 CSR 1000. I will be getting my motor back after 13 months and a lot more money than I had bargained for. I want to know if you can give me or point me to step by step procedures for startup and breakin for my engine.

A previous thread by Lee told of throwing a shim through his valve cover, and I'd like to avoid this kind of thing, if possible.

So after all this time and cash I want to take the time to do this right. Thanks in advance.

I would put some ZDDP additive in the oil you are going to run. Have read horror stories about cams and lifters in newly rebuilt engines gettting scored because the new oils don't have enough Zinc protection anymore to protect the cam lobes.

www.zddplus.com/

I would want to use a really good oil like Rotella or Amsoil syn.

Other than that, the usual:

1) keep the RPMs below 1/2 redline for the first 500 miles.

2) dump and replace the oil after a couple of hundred miles (you can use a decent dino oil for this like Castrol, then switch to the expensive stuff after).

3) re torque the head bolts after first full heat up.

4) ride at varying RPMs up and down through the gears, don't run at a steady RPM until the rings have seated.

5) recheck valve clearances at 500 miles.



I don't think break in has to be any more complicated but some people probably disagree.

I've heard a few versions of how to do this.

1)When first starting motor with fresh cams, etc. to run bike at least 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. Shut off and check torques.

2)Vary rpm for first 500 miles and then you are good to go.
or

3)After initial start up and break in, run motor as hard as you plan on using it. New rings, pistons, etc. seat very fast so break-in miles only takes a few.

or

4) After initial start-up for break-in, go out and run the motor hard to seat rings quickly. Don't worry about going 500 miles easy.

5) Use regular oil, not the new synthetic or any oil that has additives like teflon, etc. They are too slippery and the rings won't have a chance to seat. They need the friction to seat.

So...guess it boils down to what your engine builder suggests. Personally, I do the start-up break-in and take it easy for the first few miles. Don't necessarily wait for 500 but let it run at various loads for a while and then gradually start running it into the higher rpm levels. Keep an eye on oil level and exhaust. I have had one motor collapse the oil ring after a few miles and had to remove cylinder and re-do the ring set. Everything was fine after that but just shows things don't necessarily go wrong at first, so keep an eye on it and your ears open for the first few miles.

I'm sure some of the other guys have their own rituals to do this but this has worked for me over the years.

Here's what I was taught from Plummen and Larry C....

Insure you have an ample spread of engine pre lube on the camshaft lobes, valve buckets, idler and the motor has oil in it etc...

Insure all engine head, camshaft cap bolts, & cylinder bolts & engine mounting bolts are torqued to spec!!!

Insure you have the the timing chain pin counts and cams aligned correctly to TDC.

Under the ignition cover, with everything in place, remove the spark plugs and with timing chain adjuster in place & adjusted correctly, rotate the engine a couple of revolutions to insure the pistons aren't going to hit the valves or that you don't have a bind in the timing chain or your valve shims have proper clearances etc....

Using the 17mm nut, rotate the engine forward (CW on the right side of the bike).. All good then continue.

Now install the valve cover and get ready to hear her roar to life... Insure your battery is charged....

Jack up the rear, place a cooling fan on the motor, start her up... No red line, 2500-3500 rpms then back down to idle ~ 1200rpm... Don't let her sit there too long and definitely don't let her just idle... but enough to warm her up, ignition timing correct, get the idle close to 1000rpm & check the header heat that all 4 cylinders are firing, no oil leaks, charging electrical is working (measure coil voltages) etc....

First 50 miles, run her on the open road... As mentioned, no red line but don't baby her or treat her softly either... Run up the rpm's then let her back down, run up the rpms then let her back down....

You don't need to twist the throttle hard, just a nice linear twist for up and down acceleration and deceleration... You'll feel the new compression slow the bike down as if breaking...GRIN... You'll want to really seat those rings in the cylinders....

She may smoke & run a little ruff due to carb jetting, syncing, new engine and timing chain components settling in etc.... Normal for a new build....

@ 50 miles, change your oil and oil filter!
This is important for any metal shavings/metal dust due to initial break in is going to be present.... When removing your oil, check for metal shavings on your oil plug (magnet plug!)

Then when the motor is cooled down, re-torque all engine components especially the cylinder and head bolts, including engine mount bolts! They will back off slightly due to vibrations.

Then as before run her, no red line but run her for 500 miles.... change oil and filter.... Now check your valve clearances to spec and change shims as required....

Repeat above again at 1200-1500 miles.

Now you can start dialing in your carb jetting and other perks if required....

Is it a considerable amount of work, attention to detail, PITA you bet but you've been patient enough and have spent a long time and $$$ to build her up right.... Don't be in a rush as some have done and ruin your experience and thrill for what's coming at you...

Translation, when she runs as expected and pulls like a friggin mule, WOODY TIME! :woohoo:

This is what my two mentors have given me and when they speak seriously in such matters, I listen.... now I'm giving you....

OMR

WOW. If you spent a whole bunch on this engine it should be perfect. Worrying about spitting a shim, or this or that will only give you grief.

Forget about all those possible catastrophic things. They could happen, sure. But they very likely won't.

All good info here... like said, don't baby it too much. Throttle cranking can be saved for later, but it should see some higher rpms.

If you get a loud snapping/popping sound at the front of the bike - its likely a small exhaust leak. Let cool a bit, then re-torque. At the engine case breather cover - its just blowby over the rings (working in) - Don't panic! It will go away soon...

Enjoy your new engine!

Cheers.

Isn't that what the burnout box is for ?

That reminds me: I was told you should do this a few times on each outing for a new engine:

Start at lower RPMs in second gear and roll the gas on full/accelerate up as far as the speed limit allows/ let the gas off completely and let the RPms drop all the way down to idle. Do that a few times each run and it is supposed to seat the rings to the cylinder wall quickly.

I don't think it's mandatory but that's what some recommend for ring seating.

I've also seen this recommendation elsewhere with logical reasoning backing it up. That being said, the shop that did my engine had a break-in sheet to use that didn't involve load at all. I think the info OMR posted is probably the most complete and couldn't hurt to follow.

I would like to re-enforce the step where you make sure all 4 are firing. I put over 300 miles on thinking I had jetting issues before noticing that cylinder #2 was still brand-spankin' new shiny! Leave it to a noob...man does she run smoother on all 4

Thanks Guys.

I should be picking it up tomorrow, and of course will consider what my wrench recommends, but I appreciate your input.

It will give me something to go by as I line things out with him.

Will resurrect the old thread and start pics again, tomorrow.