Valve removal help, please!

So I tried the C-clamp and notched pvc tubing approach last night and managed to drill a 1/4-inch bit straight into my palm (don't ask, it wasn't pretty) and crack the c-clamp in half (the pressure from the valve spring).

The hole in my hand has convinced me to give up the homemade approach for this project, and I'm going to either rent or buy a traditional compressor. My question is, how do I know when the keepers are free and ready to be removed? I compressed the spring pretty far last night before the c-clamp snapped and sent the pvc flying like a bullet, so far that I couldn't twist the clamp by hand any more and got out a three foot pipe, but I didn't see the keepers fall loose or anything like that.

I have the manual, but predictably, it's missing the bottom inch of the page and that's exactly the spot that tells me what happens when I compress the springs. Could someone please explain how to know the keepers are free and what to do then?

when the retainers are compressed enough the keepers will be completely visable if you use the proper compresser the right compresser has a small adaptor on the end that sits on th retainer and is open on both sides so you can get a small retractable magnet in there or a good sized set of tweezers in and pull them out. you only have to compress the spring about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch most time to do this.if your in canada princess auto or in the states harbour freight has the right style of valve spring compresser and the right adaptors or if your like me, that does a lot of cylinder heads i bought a factory tool from yamaha i have had it for 20 years and done 100's of heads with it and i've never regreted getting it it doesn't flex at all like some of the off shore branded stuff does the main thing to remember is use the right sized adaptor as you can damage the bucket bore other wise.

Wow, I compressed it way further than 3/8-inch. Probably closer to 3/4-in. I looked in the notch and expected to see the keepers falling away from the valve stem, but it looked like they were still gripping it. I guess I'll have to look closer next time.

if you compress it to far you can damage the guide so be carefull. like i said try a small extenable magnet.or tweezers.

Wow, I compressed it way further than 3/8-inch. Probably closer to 3/4-in. I looked in the notch and expected to see the keepers falling away from the valve stem, but it looked like they were still gripping it. I guess I'll have to look closer next time.

You don't want the valve to be able to move down in the cylinder.

Some guys just use large c-clamps rigged with a small piece of wood. Wood cause it wont damage anything.

Place the wood against the valve to hold it in place. Then place the c-clamp over the wood and around the head with other end and adapter over the spring like normal.

Then it really should only take about 3/8th's inch to have the keepers free.

If they still are sticking in top, stop. Remove the c-clamp pressure, and give the valve top a rap with a wood/rubber mallet a few times, then try again.

Always use wood/rubber for whacking and compressing stuff, saves huge headaches!

Good luck!

you must have had on cheap c clamp, I do have a hand held valve spring compressor, but you can remove them with a socket and a hammer,, just make sure the head is off the bench and nothing is going to hit the valve causing it to bend,
But on the other hand you should have been able to remove it with a good c clamp and a small magnet to pull the keepers off the valve, the oil on them is what holds them on.
Also rather than PVC I would use a small section of pipe and cut a notch in it,

It was a cheap C-clamp - Tool Shop brand, if anyone's familiar with the Menard's hardware store chain. Luckily they have lifetime guarantees, which was all of two days!

It sounds like I had the springs compressed far enough, but that I just didn't put the magnet in there to get the keepers out. Maybe I'll get a new c-clamp and a section of pipe and give it another shot.

I did this for the first time this summer and it is difficult. I have a big c clamp and a small pipe nipple that I notched out. my pipe is almost too small because I can barely get the keepers out past the pipe.
Anyway, I had to have my wife help me hold/turn/grab/etc. She helped me to remove and reinstall the keepers.
Sometimes another set of hands helps.

However a c clamp breaking is not good. Also, I don't think PVC is strong enough for this job, so be careful or get some pipe.

heads are expensive to buy or repair, princess auto in canada or harbour freight in the states has actual valve spring compressor's that are resonable quality and a fairly cheap price and they come with different ends that you can swicth between different types of engines they work way better than some thing that may or may not work properly. the bucket bores are pretty but you can still score them if the wrong tool or if the tool you are using slips. just my professional advice here guy's but anyjob you do on your own stuff is worth doing right is it not.you don't want to damage more stuff than your repairing do you.with the right tool it will take you no more than ten minuetes to disassemble or assemble the head properly. why fool around with trying to make or jury rig a tool when the right tool is readily available. just my opinion guy's.

not that I know anything...but I went to Princess Auto like TB mentioned 4 days ago looking for a C clamp and random stuff to make a DIY valve compressor. An 8 or 10 inch C clamp was like almost 20 bones, plus I would have had to find a pipe to weld on and spend time cutting and welding. Sure it could be made to work great, but I found several ready made DOCH valve removers ranging from 20 bucks up to 50 bucks...I got the 50 dollar one and I got the valves out no problem and in no time. I didn't have to weld or cut or mess around. Not to mention I don't have a hole in my hand! I would recommend getting one too, it was something I don't regret

a drill press is a lot easier than a c-clamp for compressing the springs.just prop up the head with something under the valve so its a straight shot when pulling handle down on drill press handle.OH YEAH DO NOT HAVE DRILL PRESS RUNNING WHILE REMOVING VALVES!!!!!!!!!!! :laugh: