APE heavy duty stud installation

I've got both APE cylinder stud and main bearing studs to install in my 78 KZ1000. Removing the cylinder head studs wasn't easy and I ended up breaking 3 pairs of channel locks and locking up 10mm nutz didn't work because they kept on striping out. I can't finger spin the new APE studs into the case but I do have the correct tap to clean up the threads. Should I leave the threads where I have to tighten them down with a socket or should I clean up the threads with the tap where I can finger spin the studs all the way down and then torque? Should I use the same process on the main bearing studs that I do on the cylinder head?

Last engine question for now.....I'm a big dude.....and I'm not going to wrestle the complete engine in/out of the frame by myself again. Can I mount the case in the frame, then add the jugs/cylinder head or do I have to mount all at one time? Looks like a tight fit but experience is better than education. I know I've asked alot of questions, just want to do the research before I jump in.

Thanks for your time!

As far as installing the bottom half of the engine into the frame first?...yes you can.There is enough clearance all the way up to the valve-cover,which you will want to slide in over where the carbs would be,and then slide it forward and into place.
It IS a snug fit,but it will go.

For the studs,I personally don't see why you can't tap out the threads to clean them.Find out what thread-lock to use though...very important.

what are you doing to motor? overkill for most motors

Couple of things. If you run a tap in the cases, be sure not to cut the threads any deeper than the factory has them. If you do, the studs can screw in too far and wind up being short. Too many people have done that.

Check here; racetoolz.com/ for the stud installation tool.

Jay

Hopefully you measured and recorded the original stud heights before removing...

I can't say enough good things about the tool Jay sells for cylinder studs. It's worth the money.

Go lightly with the tap. Work it back and forth. When it bottoms, you'll feel it. STOP

Instructions call for oil on the threads. Still, I red loctite them instead. Makes me feel better about torquing the head.

Here's what I did -

removed old studs with channel locks because I could hold the stud close to the block and not bend it while twisting it out. Could lock them down with vise grips on the handles if you can't get them to hold while twisting.

turned the block upside-down and sprayed out with heptane then acetone and blew out with air and oiled threads back down with oil on q-tip.

ran the oiled tap about a 1/2 inch in going 1/2 turn forwards and 1/4 turn backwards, recleaned all threads like I did above.

dipped the studs in oil and ran them in till they bottomed out using 2 nuts and torqued to 12 foot #'s, will re-torque again tomorrow. Didn't use loc-tite, though I am a big promoter of any loc-tite brand items. I will use the red on the main bearing studs.

stud length was all correct except one was 1/8th taller on the short studs. medium, short, tall, tall, short, medium. There is no fun in having everything go smoothy OMR!

didn't get any sleep for work tonight because I was once again in the barn not doing what I was supposed to be doing.

As far as motor work is concerned PLUMMEN I've got a welded crank on a 1075 kit with 410 cams. Will jet the carbs this winter and maybe use a small # NOS shot. This is the bike I picked up for a few hundred $'s so if it runs okay I'll waste some more money in the engine but not wanting to go ballz out just yet. I got main bearing studs because I broke one and had to weld a nut to it to get it out so decided to go ahead and get studs on both sides of the case.

No doubt buying special tools is a good way to go but when I'm only going to do something once in awhile I'll either use what I have or just make one myself. Looking forward to the PVC valve spring remover later this week!

Thanks for the help all!

All I made a rookie mistake....I now know there are 3 different sizes to the cylinder studs. I thought there were only 2. What is the correct placement of the 3 lengths. Short, medium, tall. I think the medium go on the outside, the long hours next, and the short are all the way inside. Can someone confirm for me please?