camshaft chain removal

Trying to breakdown the top end of my 1980 kz750E 4cyl and appears that the only way to get,cam chain, off is taking off cam. Is this correct? I have a online manual and having trouble getting info. Chain looks to be one of those endless types and I will have to remove cams to get it off.

Where can I find top dead center on motor? I want to put this back together right! Do not want timing problems.

Is there a easier way? How hard is it to put cams back in and keep correct timing? I will have kawasaki manual soon! Sorry for the dumb questions.

Thanx

First, if you are getting the official Kawasaki (KHI) manual (not the Clymer/Haynes), then that the manual will clearly show you how to re-assemble your top end with cams/cam chain so the bike is 'in time'. Are you replacing the chain? Why? The chain is, in fact, endless and you'll have to get a chain splitter to separate it and remove it. The replacement chain might also be endless and you'll have to separate it to put in back in the motor (unless you are going to split your cases) and peen the ends together.

I think the only way to get the cam chain off (besides breaking down your bottom end too) is to break the cam chain. Z1 sells a tool to do this.
As far as TDC on your motor, there are marks on the igntion advance mechanism that say "T" for both 1&4 and 2&3. Put a socket on your advance and crank it til the "T" for 1&4 is at the very top. That's TDC. It's good to have someone there to hold the socket in place when you're setting the timing because cranking down the cam caps can move your advance and throw off timing a few degrees...

Need to split the engine in half and take it off the crankshaft. I dont know if they let you Break the links to remove it. Timing chains are best to remove only if you have the proper manual to show the right way to do it

If you are uncertain about how to do this job, I would have a competent friend or mechanic do it. Mess up your cam timing and you could be in for a much bigger repair.

PS: I don't trust cam chains that have been broken. There are TREMENDOUS stresses on these chains and a non-factory link is a weak point imho.

What he said. DONT BREAK IT or it WILL BREAK.

Thanks for the advice and you are right I need some help and a manual. I have a friend who is really good at rebuilding motors (mostly cars MOPAR guy);so I have already asked him to help and he will. I was really thinking of replacing this chain anyway. I think this is the time to do it and don't want to have to later.


Thanx

ok... everyone says don't break it, but here is the link to the tool Z1 sells anyway:

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1693

they also sell new chains and master links...

I used the Z1 Chain Break Tool, Z1 Master Link, and a new cam chain in one of my GPz Engines. I've run it for about 6 months, and now it's in the track bike in my avatar. I spin the engine constantly above 7,500 rpms, and up to 11,000 rpms without any issues. 4 track weekends(almost 600 miles), and all is just fine. I push that engine very hard. I'm also using an APE Manual Cam Chain Tensioner in there, adjusted according to their instructions.

If you do it right, then it should work just fine. If your current cam chain is the original one, from a high, or very old engine that hasn't seen many miles or oil and filter service intervals, changing the cam chain might be something you want do, but that's up to you. The only other way to replace the cam chain, like stated, is to split the cases.

I can see where others wouldn't want to do this, but I haven't had one break on me yet.

HOLD ON! This is making a mountain out of a molehill. FIRST - Don't touch anything until you get the Kawasaki Factory Service Manual!! Once you get the manual, study it a bit and you will find that removing and replacing the cams is NO BIG DEAL. Besides, I'm willing to bet that once you pull the top end apart you will end up removing the cams anyway to clean up the valves /seats.

The manual will also show you how to measure your cam chain to check that it is within the service limit (this is very simple) without removing it and without even removing the cams. Don't even think about breaking the cam chain to remove the top end of the engine! The only reason in the world to remove the cam chain is to replace it, and they rarely need to be replaced unless some ran the hell out of the engine with no oil, and the rest of the engine would be crap in that case. Please believe me when I say wait for the manual. Good luck. Ed

motors are expensive camchains are cheap do it right the first time and you won't ever regret it or worry about it.

i ll put in my semi useless .02....i replaced mine when i did top end....the key and the one thing i was anal about was making sure you peen over the pins on the link you put in....as long as they look as good as, if not better than the ones the chain maker did, you should be good.....i did not have good luck with the k and l chain breaker/ joiner and bought another one that was way more heavy duty and it made childs play out of pushing out pins..i had to modify it a little to peen over pins, but it worked well....the majority of the forces are on the fore and aft of the chain, not the side plates......again, just my limited .02.....