83 KZ650 CSR Cam Chain

Hey How's it going?

Me I've got a cam chain rattle in my 83 csr. I checked the chain when I re shimmed the valves a coupl eof weeks ago and it's at the far end of the usable range (according to the FSM any way)

I saw that Z1 has a Hy vo chain with a master link. Has any one here replaced the endless kaw hyvo chain with the z1 master link. I called Z1 the other day just to make sure that it was a master for the Hy-vo and it is. now they did say that the chain comes as an endless loop and it up to me to splice in the master (They said something about reliability issues)

Or Should I go with a ape manual tensioner that gives me more adjustment range. The only thing that worries me about this setup is running a worn chain on the cam and crank sprockets. I really don't what to have to replace those too.

I'd ranter not have to split the case if I can at all avoid it.

Thanks Gargoyle

Everyone seems to have a difference of opinion on the cam chain (from what I've seen).

The guy who did my engine was far from thrilled that I was looking at using a master link cam chain my Kz900. I let him split the cases (he welded the crank, checked the oil pump, cleaned the oil sreen, cleaned up 2nd gear on the transmission and other such stuff as well) and put a continuous chain in when he reassembled it.

Thanks DoubleDub

I may just have to bite the bullet. I just don't want to be with out a bike in the middle of summer. Splitting the cases might take me a couple of months.

gargoyle wrote:

Hey How's it going?

Me I've got a cam chain rattle in my 83 csr.

I'd ranter not have to split the case if I can at all avoid it.

Thanks Gargoyle

From what I READ, you can change the cam chain without splitting the cases or even dropping the oil pan. You split the old chain and then attach the new chain to it's end and carefully keep it tense and turn the engine to feed the new chain in and around the lower gear. when the ends are back to the top, you join them with the master link.

Obviously, an endless chain is preferred but a properly installed master will probably work a long time.

If you can verify that your actual cam chain isnt worn out to the point of damaging your sprockets. I would suggest that your problem is the "cam chain tensioner spring"
I had the same problem.

Look up the specs and correct length the spring should be. then measure yours. You can find the info in the correct book for your bike.

If the spring is wore out it will be shorter then a good one therefore causeing slack in the chain that produces chain clatter.

Good luck!

I've had the whole tensioner assembly off the bike and everything measured up to spec. Both springs.
The tensioner I have now is the cross wedge type. Where the spring only advances the push rod to take up the chain slack when needed. Then the cross wedge holds the push rod from backing out. I can push the cross wedge all the way into the tensioner housing. FSM says that the cross wedge should stick out aout 10mm. There is a small limiter dog screw that sits in a slot in the push rod keeping the push rod from exting into the engin too far. My push rod seemes to be at the end of this adjustment.

With the valve cover off is can bush back on the chain guide and it intern pushes on the tensioner push rod which pops out the cross wedge(the cross wedge cap and spring are removed) When I release the chain guide everything pops back so things aren't bound up. Everything points to the chain.

Yeah bountyhounter that's what I've read too. I've just never done it b4 and was wondering if there any gothcas that I should be careful of.

gargoyle wrote:

Yeah bountyhounter that's what I've read too. I've just never done it b4 and was wondering if there any gothcas that I should be careful of.

I think you have to be careful never to let the cam chain get slack as you turn it because it can kink on the crankshaft drive gear and really screw things up. Probably a two man job so there is one person to rotate the crankshaft and one person to tend the chain.

I think if worse comes to worse, you can drop the pan and get at both sides of the gear if I remember correctly.

The other gotcha is to make very sure you stuff lots of rags down into the top of the engine opening when you are working on the chain with small parts like the master link and clip in your hands. If they fall down, you're screwed.

Yeah

I gotta keep the cam surface clean if any debris especially if I wind up having to grind the pin out of the original chain. What about riveting the new master link anything I should be careful of there?

gargoyle wrote:

Yeah

I gotta keep the cam surface clean if any debris especially if I wind up having to grind the pin out of the original chain. What about riveting the new master link anything I should be careful of there?

I've never done it, but there is a dedicated tool for pressing the rivet with. I think Z1 sells it or you may be able to rent one from a shop.

This is the tool:

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1693

gargoyle wrote:

Or Should I go with a ape manual tensioner that gives me more adjustment range. The only thing that worries me about this setup is running a worn chain on the cam and crank sprockets. I really don't what to have to replace those too.

I'd ranter not have to split the case if I can at all avoid it.

Thanks Gargoyle

Two thoughts.

One, if the masterlink is put on properly there should be no issue, since the cam chain will only rotate one way. The link lock can't be knocked off like it could on a drive chain.

Two, I don't want to be too blatant yet, but I am making manual tensioners that are selling at about 1/2 the cost of APE. They didn't contact me about one to fit my bike so I started making one and just made extras. I've sold about 25 for KLX650s and another 5 for KZ/GPz/ZN engines with the diamond shaped tensioner bodies. I'll have the square bodies soon, I have 4 sold as soon as done. It's a hobby driven by being ignored by a manufacturer. I even include the OEM gasket needed.