zx1100A2 fuel pressure woes

My bike dies when idling (when warm). The fuel pressure gauge dips to 0 pressure at that moment, but then returns back to its 42psi for a few secs before shutting off.

Come to think of it, that must be air, right? If the pump had a momentary loss of power, it should still hold pressure, correct?

So I should be looking at fuel delivery and not electrical probs?
The (new) fuel filter is only filled on the bottom of the outside (outlet filtered partition). Should this be filled?

I'll verify fuel delivery at the filter, but its a downward slope with a new line.

Thanks

Is the fuel filter installed correctly? On my 82 GPZ1100 it can be installed upside down. Have you checked the vacuum lines? Again, on my bike the fuel pressure regulator adjusts the pressure in relation to vacuum. Has the fuel pump pressure been checked? How about the main pump relay?

This seems to be an intermittent problem. Bike idles fine, then bike dies and fuel pressure goes to 0 momentarily then back up for a few seconds. I don't know what happens first, fuel pressure cut or bike dies.

Actually, correct orientation of Kawasaki filter is upside down (by in & out labels).
All new vacuum & fuel lines.

I have fuel gauge on my new adjustable fuel pressure regulator, thats how I know whats going on with the fuel pressure.

I'm puzzled why I can't jumper the fuel pump to a battery to get it to pump, thereby isolating the pump from the control signal. It makes a weaker than normal ticking, but no pumping (12.7V). For that matter, I put jumper wires in between the fuel pump connector to make it easy to unplug and I get the same weak sound and no pressure.

I'm about ready to buy a new (automotive EFI) pump because of the weird behavior upon jumping.


Thanks

I understand a MSD 2225 fuel pump will work with some plumbing and mounting modifications. Have you thought about replacing the fuel pressure regulator too? Here's one to look at:http://www.mpsracing.com/products/NOS/no01z.asp

Your fuel pump may be failing but unfortunately it needs gasoline as a lubricant, so testing it out of the bike with a power source might be a little dangerous. I suppose Kerosene could be used instead of gas as it's not inclined to ignite so easy.

Did this start after you put the new AFPR on the bike?

Who did you get the AFPR from?

Have you been through the service manual diagnostic procedure yet?


Try to see if you've got an electrical issue. Could be a nearly broken wire in the harness.

Also make sure you don't have a fuel starvation problem. Check the petcock & filter.

Probs have been consistent before and after AFPR. Just took it for a spin, works OK except for sticking WOT. Can a faulty TPS do that even if throttle is closed?
LCD lites short sometimes. Def have to find a short or faulty electrical prob.
Fuel pump OK for now.
I was able to work the throttle a few times and get it to work again, scary.

Have you cleaned the TPS? To do it, have the bike off, disconnect the wiring to the TPS, and use a good electrical contact cleaner spraying up inside the housing, work it a few times to dislodge the loose carbon.Reconnect it and try once more with the engine running

I use a really good brand of electrical contact cleaner/preservative called De-oxit made by Caig Labs. Their website is www.deoxit.com I believe it can be purchased at the local Radio Shack stores.

Thanks, I have squirted my contact cleaner in, but I will again. I believe there is an o-ring to prevent contaminants from going in? I'll look for it and replace it.

Just did a 35 mile freeway round trip last night and today without a problem. (Scary with the fear of WOT sticking). Very surprised. I figure it needs to been ridden whether it wants to or not.

Only thing is the red warning light stays on (no associated LCD lits on this time).
This is a short or poss CPU?

Thanks guys