Valve Guide Replacement

New guides and instalation tool arrived this morning from Z1. Wondering if there are any tricks to getting them out and the new ones back in.

I'd appreciate any input from someone who has first hand experience with this.

Thanks,
Brian

make sure the carbon is removed around the bottom of the guide that extends into the port,and then drive them out from the combustion chamber side to the cam side.you can do this cold.then heat the head up to around 450 for 40-45 mins.then re-install the guides until the snap rings bottom on the head surface.i have heard that some folks install the guides back in the head with the head cold,i have always heated the head and then installed them.so i have told you the method i use and have experience with.hth,

leon holmes

Leon,
Banged the old guides out, wasn't a problem. I have the new guides in the freezer and the head is sitting in the sun under a black shirt, might warm it up a bit. Worried about baking the head with the rubber intake manifolds still on the head.

Thanks again for the help.

Brian

headspace wrote:

Leon,
Banged the old guides out, wasn't a problem. I have the new guides in the freezer and the head is sitting in the sun under a black shirt, might warm it up a bit. Worried about baking the head with the rubber intake manifolds still on the head.

Thanks again for the help.

Brian

Why are the intakes still on the head? Putting the head under a shirt in the sun isn't going to heat it at all. Remove the intakes and do it right the first time before it costs you more in the end. You should replace the intake boots while you're at it incase of any leaks or cracked or dried out boots.
BD

BD,
This is a one day project. Intake manifolds are on the head because they don't leak now and I'm going to upset the apple cart by removing them. The sun is going to warm the head up, not 450 degrees but around 150. Every little bit helps.
Have you ever replaced your guides?

Brian

OK, I have to admit that the sun isn't doing shit. Intake boots stay on and I'm heating up each individual guide hole with a propane torch.

Brian

Yup, I've replaced guides in KZ's and Honda's. Baking them is the only way to get the proper amount of heat to install them right. It's your bike tho' and you can do it however you feel is right. But just hope you don't crack the head or fuck up the guide when installing the new ones.
Good luck man, let us know how you make out.

Guides are in, head is back together and goes on the block after lunch. Freezing the guides is a waste of time, contracts them so they wont fit on the driver tool.
Propane torch worked good.

Honing the guides so the valves would fit has been the most time consuming part of the process.

Brian

way to go man!!!!!!!!!!!:woohoo:

leon holmes

get a 7mm reamer that is the best way to get the guide straight and the use a ball hone to get a good oil retaining finish on the guide. if you use a reamer then you can't take to much out.

I assume you remachined the seats after installing the guides.

As for removing guides; as someone stated, blast the noses so there is absolutly no carbon on them. If the guide is iron, heat the head and drive them out. If guides are bronze, or oem Z1 brass, don't heat the head.

We install all guides cold and in a press with special fixtures. We never pound on a new guide.

A sunnen guide hone finishes it up, ready for the Serdi.

Jay

It lives.
Thanks for all the help.

Brian