Tranny Slipping

Hi, this is my first post, but I have been lurking around here for a bit. Anyway I just bought a 1984 KZ550. It has been in storage for 20 yrs. but it has 20k on it. Anyway, I have ridden it about 300 miles in the 3 days I had with it last weekend. One thing I have noticed is that when I'm cruising if I get on the throttle it will run up to about 7k and the jump up to like 9k really quick without putting the power to the pavement. The clutch cable was bad but my dad changed it and we haven't gotten to ride it since we replaced it. Any idea on what could be causeing this. Thanks. Clay BTW this site is great.

back off the adjusters on the cable then go down to the main clutch adjuster in the counter shaft cover take the small coverplate off and then back the nut off back the adjuster screw out a bit then turn it in until it makes contact then back it out 1/4 of a turn hold it solid then tighten down the lock nut re adjust the cable but make sure you give yourself about an 1/8 " of freeplay at the lever it should be good then. if that doesn't do it pull your clutch apart and sand or rough up the steel plates with either a bead blaster if you can get accsess to one or use 3m pads to scuff the steels so that all the glazing is removed.

timebomb33 wrote:

back off the adjusters on the cable then go down to the main clutch adjuster in the counter shaft cover take the small coverplate off and then back the nut off back the adjuster screw out a bit then turn it in until it makes contact then back it out 1/4 of a turn hold it solid then tighten down the lock nut re adjust the cable but make sure you give yourself about an 1/8 " of freeplay at the lever it should be good then. if that doesn't do it pull your clutch apart and sand or rough up the steel plates with either a bead blaster if you can get accsess to one or use 3m pads to scuff the steels so that all the glazing is removed.

I agree with Tim.
I would add one more thing to the clutch adjustment. (Where the clutch cable goes into the case/side cover.) You will find the worm gear for the clutch push rod. Add a touch of grease to the worm gear, so it will move freely. And then lube your new cable, so it will last for years to come.

exactly i should have said that myself.

I was putting a new clutch cable on awhile back and decided to check out the worm gear. After almost 30 years it was bone dry but still worked OK. I greased it up and now it works smooth as butter with a much smoother feel at the lever...

so..you sand off the steel plates and not the friction plates??about to do the same thing myself..just wondered..

Thanks a lot guys. Some good info here. I have worked as a mechanic for 3 yrs now but mike motors are something i have never gotten into other than the xr100 honda i had when I was a kid. But I dont get back to the bike until about the 29th so ill try this then and let you know how it works out. Ill also try and get some pics up of the bike. My only plans for it before winter is a paint job

yes you get rid of the glazing on the steel plates the fibers unless there is pieces missing are amazingly tough i use stock used plates in both my dragbikes with absolutly no slippage and one of them is just about 160 horse so i think they can handle stock horse power. in fact you would have to abuse them really bad to get them to mess up.

cool..thanx for the info..

if you have access to a glass beading cabinet it works good on steel plates,make sure they arent warped

Be SURE to put in new springs if you take the clutch apart. And if you want my opinion, if you are going to tear it down to the plates, chuck the old friction plates and get a new set along with new springs. They don't cost that much and will fix the problem. I'm old and lazy and I would be totally fried off if I took the old plates out and cleaned them and they started slipping again 1000 miles down the road. You can usually find a new set of plates and springs for under $100.

i have a stack of about 60-80 used fibers and steels the steels i bead blast and they good to go the fibers like i said if they aren't coming apart and the tangs are in good shape and they measure up right i reuse them same for clutch springs i have them all check for free heights and what there spring pressures are. the only time that i replace them is when they break or when i'm playing around with my lock up clutch settings on my big bike. the great thing about changing clutch plates or springs is if you put the bike on the side stand you won't even lose any oil. when you pull the cover off.