kz440 where should i start??

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08 Jun 2009 11:31 #297315 by seanzie
kz440 where should i start?? was created by seanzie
there seem to be an absurd amount of posts on this site that cover strikingly similar issues to what i've encountered on my new bike, but i'm new to the art of motorcycle repair, and frankly i'm not sure where to begin.

i have to admit that i had very little idea of what i was getting into when i bought my dirt cheap but shiny old 1982 kz440 ltd (A3). however, i've been reading through these forums and I've downloaded 2 different repair manuals which i believe together manage to cover MOST of the eccentricities of the 81-83 models.. of course it took me weeks of puzzling over the diagrams in the factory manual to realize that these differences were numerous and also rather unimportant (unless you're trying to find a clutch cover and you get the wrong one 5 times in a row...).

My problems began when i purchased the bike. it had no battery, and the side cover was off (he said it was cracked), so i had to buy a new one. when i finally got the right one and installed it, i realized that the pickup coil and the cam on the advancer look like they've been hit with a hammer... maybe he dropped the bike and busted the timing cover smashing everything inside. anyway... i installed everything, crossed my fingers and pressed the little black button. much to my relief, the starter motor kicked on and the engine turned over. but no spark.

oh, and i forgot to mention i did a quick carb checkup before turning it over. i inspected the diaphragms and cleaned the junk out of the float bowls (this is when i noticed the tank was rusty). i also replaced the plugs.

anyways, i noticed the pickup coil was bent out of the path of the cam on the timing advancer, so i bent it back down and voila! i had spark, albeit a weak one. so i turned it over again and it started up VERY quickly.

it seemed to be idling OK at about 1100 rpms with the choke on, but it was making an awful ping/knock/clicking noise seemingly on every stroke. i turned it off, pulled the plugs and the right one was black as sin. i figured at this point i ought to do a compression test or a leakdown test, but i don't have that kind of equipment handy. i did some more inspecting and noticed my carb boots are cracked, and the foam that goes between the filter box and the larger air box is all worn away, so air can get in-between. i wanted to check for leaks so i started it up again. this time i let it run for a while to see if anything changed when it warmed up.

again, i should let you know that i'm very new to all of this. i'm not exactly sure of the proper procedure for starting and warming a bike. i had the choke on all the way when i started it, it idled fine for a while, i sprayed wd40 around the carb boots with no change in idle, and when the rpms started to drop off i let the choke off slowly. when i did that the rpms raced up to 4000 and held there for a minute, then jumped back down and died. this sounds like an air leak to me, but could it be caused by the same thing that's causing the fouled plug?

questions:

1.) should i do the compression test first to figure out the pinging/plug fouling issue, or could that all be related to the possible air leak? or could it maybe have to do with the beat up timing advancer? the advancer itself looks ok, but the largest part of the cam does not line up with the magnet when the timing plate lines up with the T mark.. and it looks like someone attacked it with a pair of pliers. could the timing be off and causing the noise?

2.) is it safe to ground out the right plug wire and run on only the left to see if the noise is in fact coming from the right cylinder?

3.) should i give up and take it to a shop?

4.) should i set fire to it and bathe in the ashes?

5.) should i find a new hobby?

help...

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08 Jun 2009 11:55 - 08 Jun 2009 12:01 #297321 by Mcdroid
Replied by Mcdroid on topic kz440 where should i start??
No...you have leapt the biggest hurdle...you got it to start! Make sure you have the official Kawasaki shop manual for your bike...it beats the others hands down. Don't take it to a shop unless you have faith in them. Odds are (1) the bike is older than all the mechanics and (2) they no longer have the special tools required to work on them. If you have the time, work on the bike yourself...read the manual and figure out what tools you'll need...bond with the bike :)

1. Change the oil and oil filter
2. If the tank is rusty, then install a fuel filter until you get the tank cleaned up.
3. Clean/rebuild your carbs
4. Change/bleed your brakes...inspect the pads
5. Change the spark plugs
6. Inspect the carb head manifolds for dry/cracked condition

Michael
Victoria, Texas

1982 GPz750
1977 KZ1000A
1978 KZ1000A
1982 GPz1100
1975 Z2A

Last edit: 08 Jun 2009 12:01 by Mcdroid.

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08 Jun 2009 12:38 #297330 by seanzie
Replied by seanzie on topic kz440 where should i start??
thanks for the quick reply! i have a digital version of the kawasaki manual. i like the way they describe how everything works, not just tell you what to do. it's actually kindof fun to read. i have replaced the oil/oil filter. i have a fuel filter i'm going to put on as soon as i get a chance. the carb boots are cracked but i don't think they're leaking (also i can't find a replacement part ANYWHERE!). my ignition timing is what worries me the most. they say that the transistorized ignition never needs to be adjusted, but it looks all beat up, and i can't find a replacement for the timing advance mechanism.

anyone have any ideas about the noise? should i just rebuild everything and stop trying to pinpoint it? i don't have a lot of money to spend on special tools.. i've found a way to make a cheap carb sync device, and also a compression tester, but i'm a little bit weary about opening up the engine and messing with the valves and such..

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08 Jun 2009 12:39 #297331 by 650ed
Replied by 650ed on topic kz440 where should i start??
As McDroid said, get the Kawasaki shop manual for your specific model/year and change oil/filter. Check the carb holders and replace if there are any signs of air leakage. Using the manual, do a full tune-up (check valve clearances, adjust ignition timing, carb synch, adjust cam chain tensioner, etc.) to establish a baseline from which to measure other improvements. If the timing advancer if damaged you will probably notive it doing the tune-up. When that's done, if you still have bad noises, rough idling, etc. you may need to go through the carbs again to ensure all passages are squeaky clean.

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)

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