My Transmission is Locked?!?

Hi everyone. I am brand spanking new to Motorcycles. I have a KZ250 with 7K miles on it. Bike was riding and starting fantastically. I am just learning how to ride so I was following my father who was riding my KZ back home from the parking lot I was practicing in. When he came to a stop in order to make a turn I noticed that the back wheel locked up and the bike stalled. It would not restart. I put the bike in neutral and walked it back home. Battery checks out fine, I have noticed though that if you put it into first gear and squeeze the clutch in the bike wouldn't roll. Bike will not start back up, even when trying to start in neutral. If you try and start in first gear even with the clutch squeezed all the way in it lurches forward. I bumped the bike back in forth in first with the clutch pressed in to free it, it will move but it still has resistance, and it will still lurch forward when you try and start it? Any thoughts as to what is going on? I plan on changing the Points to see if that helps the bike start, but has my transmission locked up? How do I get it unlocked?

Thanks

Chris (Newbie)

Hello, Chris, and WELCOME to KZR!
We're glad you're here!

Am guessing a clutch push-rod adjustment and clutch cable adjustment may be needed to allow full disengagement of the clutch when the handlebar lever is squeezed.

Also guessing there no shop manual available.

What year is your KZ250? So we can look up some clutch information.

Good Luck!

Patton Thanks Man it is a 1980 KZ250 LTD, that sounds like that might be what is going on.....So now I need to know how to fix it LOL. Thanks for the help.

Shown below for reference is the 1980 KZ250-D clutch parts diagram from kawasaki.com.

I am unfamilar with the KZ250 push-rod adjustment, or how it is accessed. And am only presuming there is an adjustable gap where the arm contacts the pushrod (as in larger KZ engines).

So please await specific advice from someone having actual experience with this particular model clutch.

Typically, the gap assures full clutch engagement when the handlebar lever is relaxed and not being squeezed. At which time slight slack would also exist in the cable (to be taken up by initial squeeze on the lever).

When the handlebar lever is squeezed against the handgrip, the pushrod is supposed to push against and spread the clutch plates apart (disengage the clutch).

Without the gap at the pushrod, the clutch will drag, heat up, stick, etc.

Now after all that, I could simply be wrong in guessing that the pushrod gap adjustment is available in the KZ250 as it is in the larger KZ's.

I looked but didn't find a KZ250 manual here on KZRider.

Good Luck!

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REF NUMBER PART NUMBER DESCRIPTION QUANTITY US CA CN REMARKS


1 13081-1046 CLUTCH-ASSY 1


2 13087-1001 HUB,CLUTCH 1


3 13088-1008 PLATE,CLUTCH FRICTION 7


4 13089-013 PLATE CLUTCH STEEL 6


5 13187-1005 PLATE,CLUTCH OPERATNG 1


6 92001-1066 BOLT,CLUTCH SPR FITT 5


7 92081-083 SPRING-CLUTCH 5


8 13095-1015 HOUSING,CLUTCH 1


9 13121-035 GEAR,PRIMARY 1


10 112G0618 BOLT-UPSET 1


11 13116-016 PUSHER-CLTCH SPRG PLT 1


12 13106-006 SHAFT,CLUTCH RELEASE 1


13 13116-016 PUSHER-CLTCH SPRG PLT 1


14 13116-1040 ROD,CLUTCH PUSH 1


15 13116-1002 ROD,CLUTCH PUSH,LONG 1


16 670B2010 "0" RING, 10MM 1


17 92003-130 BOLT,CLUTCH RELEASE 1

There are several KZ250 shop manuals and owners manuals currently listed on ebay. Would definitely get an official Kawasaki factory service manual. The owners manual could also help with the more routine maintenance items (likely including clutch adjustment).


Click here >> ebay listings

Or just do an ebay search for "KZ250 manual"

Good Luck!

Wow Thanks Man! I appreciate the help! This would not have any effect on the bikes ability to start would it? In your past experience is it possible for the POINTS to be the sole cause of a bike not starting? The bike was running great, I have good charge on my battery, and I am getting spark at the plug but it just won't turn over.

dearthchris wrote:

Wow Thanks Man! I appreciate the help! This would not have any effect on the bikes ability to start would it? In your past experience is it possible for the POINTS to be the sole cause of a bike not starting? The bike was running great, I have good charge on my battery, and I am getting spark at the plug but it just won't turn over.

Plug might be fuel-fouled beyond recovery, even if sparking when removed.

If not already done, would remove plug and visibly inspect spark quality while holding it against the engine head and cranking over the engine (ignition swithch ON).

Go ahead and spring for a brand new spark plug, being absolutely certain it's the correct size and heat range per factory specs.

It's likely also time for a compression test and assuring valve clearances are within specs.

And cleaning and gapping points to spec, followed by assuring spot-on ignition timing, using a strobe-type timing light with engine running to also assure proper operation of the advancer by watching it move back and forth as rpm's are varied by blipping the throttle.

Good Luck!

Welcome aboard. You're gonna need one of these; we all do.

FSM

You guys are great, I'm loving this site!

Make sure the clutch cable isn't broken, as well.