Oil Cooler Installation

Went for a ride last weekend and got stuck on traffic. Bike started to feel real hot.

I've heard that an oil cooler will help solve the problem of a hot bike( within reason) Are they hard to install? do i need to drill and tap the block at all?

1980 1000ST.

Any guidance would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Imo oil motorcycle cooler on air cooled bikes helps little if at all when stuck in traffic, such as bumper to bumper stop and crawl during ultra hot weather at Daytona Bike Week. Because an oil cooler needs air flow to function. A few owners have adapted electric fan to create air flow under these conditions, but adoption by the air cooled bike community has been underwhelming.

Am thinking water cooled bikes fare better under these conditions, and seem to recall some having their radiators equipped with automatic fans same as automobiles.

For extended summertime touring at highway speeds, an oil cooler seems beneficial on an air-cooled bike engine.

Good Luck!

If it runs warm as your riding around it'll help for sure. As for sitting in traffic, the cooler will cool the bike faster when you start moving. You will have to buy adapters that fit to the oil light switch under the airbox. About the only site that has them is americanclassix.com.

It's a debated topic. As previously mentioned, a cooler is most effective when you're moving. If you have stock displacement and compression it shouldn't be necessary. Look for signs of overheating - erratic idle, stalling or pinging under acceleration when the engine is hot. If you don't have these symptoms then it's probably not worth the trouble. Big bore kits with high compression pistons require more heat dissipation. Here's a thread with some useful info.

kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...d=2&id=286967#289040

Oil cooler adapter set....
These would be installed at the oil pressure switch pipe.

americanclassix.com/streetfighter_conversions.html

For Earls coolers...
www.holley.com/types/Temp-A-Cure%20Oil%20Coolers.asp

Living here in Arizona I as well have been researching into this concept due to the triple digit heat index...

As mentioned, without air cooling (flow), it's not going to do a hole hell of a lot for you... If your not experiencing the items Davel mentioned then the issue is elsewhere if this is your reasoning.

Plummen brought up a real good point when discussing the pro's & cons with him... Presently, still in motor break in period of my project... Meaning I'm using non synthetic motor oils. Was originally using 10w/40, after our discussion have now installed 20w/50...

It seemed to make a difference when ambient temperatures are under 100*F... Maybe you already are doing so...

Same time, in researching this further I came across another item that would cause the engine to run a little hotter... Ignition timing! I had advanced my timing a couple of degrees and since have set it back to dead nuts on @ 1000rpm...

Also, are you running your carb jetting on the lean side... A richer setting will run cooler!

Then the other statement is when I get to 1500 miles on this re-build, we will be switching to synthetic oils. At which point the motor will run cooler due to the synthetic lubrication... Again, maybe you already are doing so...

So unless witnessing symptoms, these old motors can take an ass whooping... So ride her and enjoy, she'll let you know when she's not happy....

Then the last good point brought up by that crusty old bastard is this....

Plummen:
"You actually go ride when it's 115*F... WTF is the matter with you?" :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

Hard to argue that one....

OMR