lobe centers 1015cc

Thought I had norris .407 cams @.020 and 280deg. They have kh259 on them. I don't know if kenny Harmon made .407's. But the degree wheel seems to be telling me they would be the former if set up at 108deg centers. Meaning the op. and cl. numbers 20 and 80 would would be just that. Anyway, i guessed on max lift point back then and tightened up the bolts. Now I checked after 3years of good power up top and able to beat 600cc bikes. And LO! 115 actual center on the the intake. I don't know if I want to change it. Common sense tells me maybe pull it down and have more power up to the top and keep the top end as well. Maybe they beat me from the start because the torque is lacking. I havnt ridden for 2years. No license till april so I won't know till then. But gut feeling tells me I could loosen the bolts, advance the cam slightly and though the number will barely change the power band will change. I don't want it down. I need the high rpm pull. How much I'm missing I'll find out later. Even at 155psi I can't have the timing set anywhere near the fire mark. If I do it pulls like a truck and the front wheel lifts at 10mph and it hits the wall early with vibration and such. 80mph in fifth and it vibes pretty good. The way it's set up at ll5center and the timing backed way off from the mark, it's smooth in third gear at 90mph. It actually comes on at 85 or so in that gear. I gave them a bump and it seems it has more compression but it could be the oil I put in the cylilnders is sealing the rings good right now. I remember stock the bike had torque and a broad range of it at that but it's nothing like it is now. Used to pull the best at 55 in third. Yucky though compared to what i got going on now. There is a guy on this site that stated he had his intake at 112. I think I know why. Either he and I are idiots, have a diff. riding style or the the way we are set up is just plain better. All I know is when I get to drive again I'm setting up the deg. wheel on the rotor side with the numbers facing toward the motor so it's quick set up. And folks, the degreeing is ON! And I don't think you can ever get a dial and base set up rock solid. I've learned enough to know that all the equipement lies. It's more like give the cam a bump, take down the new numbers and go. The numbers don't mean anything they are merely for reference only. Dirty white lies. Lies I say! Everything lies. But smoking a rocket is not a lie. Guess I'll have to check the exhaust to see what kind of voo doo I did there. Clearances were right on ranging from .006 to .014 lol. HOLY shnikey! What was I thinkin? I ported the crap out the head, probly all the power too, and I never even went with three angles or bowl blending or nuttin. But least I don't have skinny azz lil valve seat that crush in at too grand run the vavles hot as molten lava. Did you guys know that at 115lc u have over .100 piston to valve clearance and cannot bend a valve no matter what you do? I miss bending valves. It's like showing a battle scar. And just to make you all squirm I used miss matched cam caps on purpose. But it didn't work. It didn't blow up. The bright side is finally gota dyna. I drink gallons of water after drinking all weekend and smoking everyone on the pool table. It doesn't effect the way the bike runs either. Just whether or not it will start. Think so far i've drank countless ignitions, speedos, seats, regulators, side covers etc. Gets expensive when let things go too long. So my advice is just don't buy anything.

nads.com wrote:

Thought I had norris .407 cams @.020 and 280deg. They have kh259 on them. I don't know if kenny Harmon made .407's. But the degree wheel seems to be telling me they would be the former if set up at 108deg centers. Meaning the op. and cl. numbers 20 and 80 would would be just that. Anyway, i guessed on max lift point back then and tightened up the bolts. Now I checked after 3years of good power up top and able to beat 600cc bikes. And LO! 115 actual center on the the intake. I don't know if I want to change it. Common sense tells me maybe pull it down and have more power up to the top and keep the top end as well. Maybe they beat me from the start because the torque is lacking. I havnt ridden for 2years. No license till april so I won't know till then. But gut feeling tells me I could loosen the bolts, advance the cam slightly and though the number will barely change the power band will change. I don't want it down. I need the high rpm pull. How much I'm missing I'll find out later. Even at 155psi I can't have the timing set anywhere near the fire mark. If I do it pulls like a truck and the front wheel lifts at 10mph and it hits the wall early with vibration and such. 80mph in fifth and it vibes pretty good. The way it's set up at ll5center and the timing backed way off from the mark, it's smooth in third gear at 90mph. It actually comes on at 85 or so in that gear. I gave them a bump and it seems it has more compression but it could be the oil I put in the cylilnders is sealing the rings good right now. I remember stock the bike had torque and a broad range of it at that but it's nothing like it is now. Used to pull the best at 55 in third. Yucky though compared to what i got going on now. There is a guy on this site that stated he had his intake at 112. I think I know why. Either he and I are idiots, have a diff. riding style or the the way we are set up is just plain better. All I know is when I get to drive again I'm setting up the deg. wheel on the rotor side with the numbers facing toward the motor so it's quick set up. And folks, the degreeing is ON! And I don't think you can ever get a dial and base set up rock solid. I've learned enough to know that all the equipement lies. It's more like give the cam a bump, take down the new numbers and go. The numbers don't mean anything they are merely for reference only. Dirty white lies. Lies I say! Everything lies. But smoking a rocket is not a lie. Guess I'll have to check the exhaust to see what kind of voo doo I did there. Clearances were right on ranging from .006 to .014 lol. HOLY shnikey! What was I thinkin? I ported the crap out the head, probly all the power too, and I never even went with three angles or bowl blending or nuttin. But least I don't have skinny azz lil valve seat that crush in at too grand run the vavles hot as molten lava. Did you guys know that at 115lc u have over .100 piston to valve clearance and cannot bend a valve no matter what you do? I miss bending valves. It's like showing a battle scar. And just to make you all squirm I used miss matched cam caps on purpose. But it didn't work. It didn't blow up. The bright side is finally gota dyna. I drink gallons of water after drinking all weekend and smoking everyone on the pool table. It doesn't effect the way the bike runs either. Just whether or not it will start. Think so far i've drank countless ignitions, speedos, seats, regulators, side covers etc. Gets expensive when let things go too long. So my advice is just don't buy anything.

What is the elevation where you live? What size carbs do you use?

nads.com wrote:

Thought I had norris .407 cams @.020 and 280deg. They have kh259 on them. I don't know if kenny Harmon made .407's. But the degree wheel seems to be telling me they would be the former if set up at 108deg centers. Meaning the op. and cl. numbers 20 and 80 would would be just that. Anyway, i guessed on max lift point back then and tightened up the bolts. Now I checked after 3years of good power up top and able to beat 600cc bikes. And LO! 115 actual center on the the intake. I don't know if I want to change it. Common sense tells me maybe pull it down and have more power up to the top and keep the top end as well. Maybe they beat me from the start because the torque is lacking. I havnt ridden for 2years. No license till april so I won't know till then. But gut feeling tells me I could loosen the bolts, advance the cam slightly and though the number will barely change the power band will change. I don't want it down. I need the high rpm pull. How much I'm missing I'll find out later. Even at 155psi I can't have the timing set anywhere near the fire mark. If I do it pulls like a truck and the front wheel lifts at 10mph and it hits the wall early with vibration and such. 80mph in fifth and it vibes pretty good. The way it's set up at ll5center and the timing backed way off from the mark, it's smooth in third gear at 90mph. It actually comes on at 85 or so in that gear. I gave them a bump and it seems it has more compression but it could be the oil I put in the cylilnders is sealing the rings good right now. I remember stock the bike had torque and a broad range of it at that but it's nothing like it is now. Used to pull the best at 55 in third. Yucky though compared to what i got going on now. There is a guy on this site that stated he had his intake at 112. I think I know why. Either he and I are idiots, have a diff. riding style or the the way we are set up is just plain better. All I know is when I get to drive again I'm setting up the deg. wheel on the rotor side with the numbers facing toward the motor so it's quick set up. And folks, the degreeing is ON! And I don't think you can ever get a dial and base set up rock solid. I've learned enough to know that all the equipement lies. It's more like give the cam a bump, take down the new numbers and go. The numbers don't mean anything they are merely for reference only. Dirty white lies. Lies I say! Everything lies. But smoking a rocket is not a lie. Guess I'll have to check the exhaust to see what kind of voo doo I did there. Clearances were right on ranging from .006 to .014 lol. HOLY shnikey! What was I thinkin? I ported the crap out the head, probly all the power too, and I never even went with three angles or bowl blending or nuttin. But least I don't have skinny azz lil valve seat that crush in at too grand run the vavles hot as molten lava. Did you guys know that at 115lc u have over .100 piston to valve clearance and cannot bend a valve no matter what you do? I miss bending valves. It's like showing a battle scar. And just to make you all squirm I used miss matched cam caps on purpose. But it didn't work. It didn't blow up. The bright side is finally gota dyna. I drink gallons of water after drinking all weekend and smoking everyone on the pool table. It doesn't effect the way the bike runs either. Just whether or not it will start. Think so far i've drank countless ignitions, speedos, seats, regulators, side covers etc. Gets expensive when let things go too long. So my advice is just don't buy anything.

I've said this several times before on here but again, just read the #s and do the calcs. Not rocket science just beginning dial indicator setup and usage. If your not getting repeatable numbers within 1/2 degree your doing something wrong! I remember some guy on here talking about trying to calc the valve clearences into the calulations. Big mistake! Why bother? Sure way to make a blunder! Just setup and read the numbers.

I don't know the elevation here in fargo ND but carbs are 28mm z1's and they have needle jets from 76 26mm carbs and the jets are drilled to 155. And Modpod the numbers do come up the same, it's just the dial is wiggling some through the process. The exhaust seems to be around 108 and the intake is 115 every time. I moved it slightly once and the lobe center did change like it should. The first time I degreed them the other day they were at 116. Intending to advance the intake I moved the motor with the bolts loose just a tad but it was the wrong direction. The lobe centers went to 118 or more. I bumped it back the right direction but it may not have been enough to advance it ahead of the original 116 position. I came up with 114 acouple times and 115 while tweaking on the dial. I checked several times messing around with everthing and it's definetely retarded. the cranking pressure verify's that and so does the extra valve clearance. The chain was pretty loose on the cams so it must have been even more retarded than 115. I did tighten the chain first like before when I installed them. Don't know for sure why so loose I tightened it a few times threw the 2 seasons but I'm sure it doesn't have any stretch left. That tells me I tightened it too much maybe and wore on the rubber wheel. It's a manual tensioner. Now that it's tight I notice it is tight for most of the rotation then gets a little slack at some point in there. BOOM! It does have used chain rollers in the block but the top roller is new. The rubber roller was good too and not many miles on that. I couldn't say about the other two but I don't trust those stupid things anyway. Can't figure why they used the materials like plastic or fiber or whatever it is. The chain is stock and I think it's the same damn chain that you get new. What purpose to replace with one that's "another weak link"? Did they make them better? I just don't want to put up with stretch for the next year. May my chain is junked out I don't realize that. If it breaks I'll beat it with a hammer. Seems like small chain for what it has to do. I think I'll leave the set up the way it is until I can drive it and after I do I'll pull the lc down about 3deg. If it runs excellent I'll replace the chain at that time. Lota stupid bench racing here, not my style. I'd rather go break something than just talk about it. So here I sit with a stack of sticks, snapping them one at a time just to hear them crack. It's all I got for now but it's better than jail. Any input on the timing or just anything will be much appreciated. Even though I probly won't take heed the warnings, I'll have a better idea for round two.

I hope that anyone degreeing cams is using the rotor bolt to turn the motor over. It's much easier than leaning over the bike to reach the other side. And I'm sure everone knows as far as using the right side of the lobe to mount the dial.... don't even think about it. :huh: