header exhaust

[youtube] video.google.com/videosearch?q=z1+sets+r...a+record&hl=en&emb=0 [/youtube]

[youtube] video.google.com/videosearch?q=z1+sets+r...a+record&hl=en&emb=0 [/youtube]

Good Luck!

+1 on everything 650ed said. Plus, exhaust performance has a lot to do with scavenging. Scavenging occurs when air pressure and wind created by the bike moving helps to draw air from the exhaust at a greater rate than the exhaust creates on it's own "push". There's a big reason you don't find any stock or aftermarket exhaust that's only a header. With the exhaust cut off that short there's going to be next to no scavenging occurring, greatly reducing the performance capability of the bike. Plus, exhaust that short can very easily allow cool air to suck back up into the hot engine immediately after shut down which really isn't good for the valves my friend.
Hopefully you've got access to a welder and didn't throw away the pieces you hacked off, cause you're going to want them back on before long...

that sucks....well then...i guess I better get that taken care of there is a exhaust of a gxr, that im going to use..the pipes I should say...

Can't wait to see how the pipes come out!! The GSXR pipe on your header should look pretty damn cool. But yeah, I wouldn't ride/run the bike much with just the header (unless you really like doing valve work that is...)

Keep us posted!

Well I am work, and i rode it here to work...So, but I am going to take it buy are tech school, so they can look at the bike, and get ready to weld the exhaust, and the crash bars that are going on it. Hey what all needs to be done when doing valve work..Details please! Because the damage is probably already done.

I highly recommend getting your hands on a factory service manual before digging into the engine. Using a FSM as reference will help make sure you don't do anything stupid like over torquing cam cap bolts (done that), or installing the cams 180 degrees out (done that), you get the picture...

I've never done an 1100 motor but I've done several 650s...If you want to check for damage first you'll want to do a leak down test, then check valve clearances. If she fails the leak down test you're looking at replacing valve seats and possibly honing valves. At the very least at this point make sure your valve lash is set correctly. If it was my bike I'd just do a top end rebuild and make sure that everything is kosher.

Darkangel wrote:

...what all needs to be done when doing valve work..Details please! Because the damage is probably already done.

Valves may still be okay.

Would assure clearances being to specs.

Then perform standard compression test.

If compression figures are acceptable and faily even, this indicates that the valves are still okay.

Where valve clearances are to specs and compression figures are unacceptable, a leakdown test helps indicate where the compression is escaping from the combustion chamber, such as intake valve, exhaust valve, past piston/rings, and/or headgasket.

Good Luck!

Guys...I talked to a dude today that builds crazy engines for dragersters, and he was telling me about his Yamaha 650, and the engines that he has built. He said that yes running the open pipes with no flow restriction, and not to mention lean would kill the engine...(valves) But he said what you could do is this...If you cut the pipes to equal lengths, and instead of leaving the pipes rounded after the cut, you clamp the pipes down, therefore stricting the back air flow into the engine when decelerating. Because i understand that with open pipes ( round open pipe) if you were driving at 90mph and then come to a stop the head the pistons, valves etc. get warm expands as all metal does, you slow down, it then sucks air back into the engine rapidly cooling the engine...Well believe it or not...no matter what your exhuast system does this to a point wheather or not you have pipes or strait headers. The diff. is the air is warmed as a little bit is sucked back into the engine. Scavenging is still an issue because it is cut short by cutting the pipes. But this man suggestion a few things...clamping down the ends of the headers reducing the amount of air being allowed back into the engine, tuning the carbs to the open headers, and a jet kit.. We have to remember burned valves is because of the bike leanings out because of the loss of pressure, and more air flow...So if she is tuned! She will be a monster...More Fuel! MORE FUEL! :evil:
Plus a cop said that he heard me within 50 Ft and it was not loud to him, so that it passes city sound laws..So it's time to tune...I am going to buy a carb sync tool, and a colortune, and get the girl running somewhat in the middle...This man thinks if I back out my mixture screws a 1/4 turn, and dial them in...that the bike will scream...i just dont think it will be that simple...But i believe that what we will do is get her up and running see where the headers get the hottest...cut them there, and that end is tuned....Because I feel that if i do a valve job, I might as well rebuild the engine...

Here's the old time baffle solution without needing to deform ends of the pipes.



Listed at JC Whitney, and probably remain widely available.

Click here >> JC Whitney

Good Luck!

will this keep, the cold air from being sucked back into my engine.. or at least limit the amount of air versus have just open pipes with no baffles.