after rebuild problems

I have a 78 kz1000 with 28mm carbs, pods and kerker header all else is stock.

I just had to take the motor apart cause I heard some knocking on the lower end. Turns out it was a broked chain guide clunking around. Replaced rings, chain, checked out all was good inside and did a valve job and cleaned up the pistons and combustion chamber. Put it back together and checked the valve clearance and they are all on the high side so I left them. A little noisyer than i'd like but no problem. Went to sync the carbs and when i pulled off the caps to install the vacuum lines all four carb caps were filled with gas. this is a first for me even whne my bike was overfueling i don't hink i ever seen my carb caps wet.
Anyway i proceeded with sync anyway and got them pretty close but cannot get the bike to idle down. if I adjust the idle down it will go but when i blip the throttle it races up and wont go down. I synced the carbs before the tear down and was idleing high as well but not as extreme as now.
Any input woul dbe appreciated.

sounds like your pilot screws are set too lean try adjusting them all the same the hang up in idle is caused by leanness.

It could be a vacuum leak too. Spray some starting fluid around the boots when running and see if the motor races.
Mark

Yeah I tried spraying carb cleaner on the boots but did not expect that to be the proble. I put new ones on using some rtv. But good suggestion. I'll try the pilots tomorrow.
I thought possibly when syncing the carbs I did not adjust the idle scre where it needed to be before doing so. So even though carbs have even vacuum I have no travel ib the idle screw. I need to scre it pretty far in to get it to idle at 1000 rpm. I was thinking I needed to back out my 4 sync adjsut screws and start over. But i am gonna try the air mixture screws as t-bomb suggested.
Thanks gentlemen.

I tried adjusting my air/fuel screws and still no luck. I'm wondering if after cleaning all the carbon from the the pistons and head and valve lapping that it would get much better fuel flow making it run even leaner. Would this mean I may possibly have to go bigger on my pilot jet. I currently have 17.5's now but have a new set of 20's in the garage. Wondering if it would richen it up to where it needs to be.

Have you looked at the throttle cables to make sure they are not binding up, or even frayed inside.
the easiest way is to remove them from the carbs and see if the problem is still there

i DID CHECK THE CABLES AND THEY SEEMED OKAY BUT I LIKE THE IDEA OF TRYING WITHOUT THE CABLES.
ILL GIVE IT A SHOT THIS AFTERNOON. IM GONNA DOUBLE CHECK THE TIMING WITH A TIMING LIGHT TOO. TE BIKE STARTS RIGHT UP SO ID DI NOT SUSPECT TIMING. IS IT POSSIBLE IT COULD START UP THAT NICE AND STILL BE OUT OF TIME?

Hum... did you forget that your CAP-Lock was on or are you just yelling at us.... :ohmy: :whistle: :laugh:

Your hurting my ears :pinch: :woohoo:

yeah...the cap lock was on and did not feel like re-typing.
:silly:

I got the bike running pretty good. The valve clearances were indeed too tight, made a big difference. But know when i get on it in first gear and wind it out, right before I was ready to bang secong i heard a pop so i let off. Pop thru the exhaust like a misfire.

I hate to admit but still have points. I have a DYNA S on the way. Bad points??

jbrewer73 wrote:

I got the bike running pretty good. The valve clearances were indeed too tight, made a big difference. But know when i get on it in first gear and wind it out, right before I was ready to bang secong i heard a pop so i let off. Pop thru the exhaust like a misfire.

I hate to admit but still have points. I have a DYNA S on the way. Bad points??

just my .02....put in the dyna and with pods and a pipe go with #20 pilots...i forget what the book says but 2 turns out on screws should get ya close......what mains do ya have?