Looking for a KZ1000 cylinder head for my 79 MKII

I would like a either fresh head or one that I can get rebuilt. I am not sure what years fit but I am putting on a 79 MKII.

what is wrong with your old head. any head from 1973 on to 1980 will bolt on. 1979 and 1980 are the same for your motor but anyof the early one's will fit as well.

Seeing as you have a very nice MKll you know what the engines look like lol.

The 73-80 heads WILL fit your MKll bottom end but only 79 & 80 cylinder heads will match exactly in terms of appearance.The older heads had different castings & rocker covers than the MKll.

Well it was runnin' real good so I thought? I started checking valve clearances and something wasn't right on #3..
Checked compression and 2,3,4 wern't to spec? Decided it was time to pull head.

What I found was both valves bent on #3 and hadn't been seating in awhile. Put the head on the bench and filled chambers with fuel of course #3 ran right intake and exhaust. #2 & 4 emptied in about 10 seconds. #1 held for quite awhile.

What's odd is I have most likely been running it that way for awhile and it seemed to run good. Started right up no backfiring or popping.

Can't wait to ride it when it's running on all four.

2 cam hold down block bolts are stripped on #1. I can probably tap a little deeper and get a longer bolt but I would just as soon have a head with no issues.

if it is a mk11 head keep it and get it fixed at your lesure as it will be worth it to keep around in case you ever want to restore the bike and the look around for another head or just send that head up to me and all your problems will go away.

fullbore wrote:

2 cam hold down block bolts are stripped on #1. I can probably tap a little deeper and get a longer bolt but I would just as soon have a head with no issues.

Finding a head with no issues may be an issue. Sounds like you have a good rebuildable head. Helicoiling bolt holes in these heads is more the rule than exception; especially cam cap threads in MKII heads. There are many postings on this site about that exact problem. Expect any used head you are likely to find to have some damage...stripped bolts, missing cam bearing caps, broken fins, "hi perf" port job, etc.

Don't be discouraged by a set of helicoils. If done properly, the head will be as good or better than new.

Heli's are OK but Timeserts are the real fix, no chance of backing out with the bolt ever.

l would go with time-serts as well. Here is a link to some info on them.
time-serts

You could have your head redone and have them repair the bolt holes at the same time.

It's interesting, when I changed head gasket on my mk2 last year I had a bent valve as well. It also ran good.

I'm going to do a little extra work on the head and put studs in for the cam caps. I think it's better than the stock setup and definately stronger.

I have a few buggered spark plug holes but only in the top of the thread. I'll run a tap through those to clean the threads also.

Got the stock exhaust off to the plater to be re-chromed. I figured I'm going to stay as close to stock as possible on this bike because they are not very easy to find.

I have located a another complete motor for my other MKII project it's out of an 80 classic and as I recall they are also MKII motors? Can anyone confirm that? (KZT00GE-XXXXX)

I should be able to throw together a pretty decent run around with the parts I got left. Maybe a "rat" bike project?

fullbore wrote:

I'm going to do a little extra work on the head and put studs in for the cam caps. I think it's better than the stock setup and definately stronger.

I have a few buggered spark plug holes but only in the top of the thread. I'll run a tap through those to clean the threads also.

Got the stock exhaust off to the plater to be re-chromed. I figured I'm going to stay as close to stock as possible on this bike because they are not very easy to find....

put studs in for the cam caps -- if not already considered, would be mindful of possible clearance issue between stud end and valve cover.

buggered spark plug holes -- if not removing head before re-tapping, would consider the reverse tap (special tool) that chases thread beginning from the deep end.

stock exhaust off to the plater to be re-chromed -- where was a plater located that's willing to re-chrome exhaust headers or mufflers? Had about given up on this because the carbon inside reportedly ruined the chemicals in the chroming tanks involved. Said it's impossible to first remove the carbon. Maybe a radiator shop boiling before re-chroming?

Good Luck!