900 Head BOLT siezed
- b200driver
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900 Head BOLT siezed
04 Mar 2006 06:33
Anyone else run into this one? I decided to re-torque my head bolts because of some oil weeping from around the nuts. The head has never been off this bike. So I loosen the nuts about 1/4 turn each to break the thread friction, then bring them back up to torque per the manual. When I get to those two 6mm Bolts, the one on the #1 side is loose. I figure it is because of the re-tightening of the studs. The one on the #4 side won't budge. I finally get it to turn a little in the loose direction. With a ton of PB Blaster, I can get it to turn about 3 revolutions, but that is it. I can turn it in and out those three turns (with alot of squeaking), but no more. It is to the point where If I apply much more torque to it, I'll need a drill. The bottom of the bolt bost is open on the 900 cylinder, and I've sprayed lube in there. Any ideas?
Post edited by: B200Driver, at: 2006/03/04 09:34
Post edited by: B200Driver, at: 2006/03/04 09:34
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- Duck
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- e vica na i sau na ga
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Re: 900 Head BOLT siezed
04 Mar 2006 07:13
In and out, lots of PBB, MMO, or ATF. Patience, easy on the grunt, have a beer, come back tomorrow. Eventually it should come out.
-Duck
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- wireman
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- oldkaw79
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Re: 900 Head BOLT siezed
04 Mar 2006 07:15
Loosen the bolt as much as possible and then try to spray lubricant on top and let it run down inside and sit for awhile. Then try to move it back and forth. I had one that was so bad that I had to snap the bolt and then drill it out and put a new bolt in. The problem is with the hole being open on the bottom the end of the bolt is probably rusted and messed up.
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- savedrider
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- b200driver
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Re: 900 Head BOLT siezed
04 Mar 2006 13:43
SCORE: Tim - 2, Bolt - 1. I got it out without breaking. Why the 1 for the bolt? well it did come out, but not without flattening most of the threads on the way. It seems that the bottom thread became one with the aluminum around it. The aluminum booger on there was what was giving me the grief. I am going to get a 6x1 tap and give it a cleanup. Anyone know off hand if Sears sells metric taps? I may need a bottoming tap to get all the way in, cause the fins are in the way of the tap coming out too far. Also, what are you go-fast guys using in these bolt holes? I see the heavy duty studs alot, but not sure if there are stronger bolts for here as well. If I have to replace the bolt, I might as well get the good stuff....
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- wireman
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Re: 900 Head BOLT siezed
04 Mar 2006 13:59
if you cant find botteming tap ,cut the point of a regular 6mm tap:whistle:
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- oldkaw79
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Re: 900 Head BOLT siezed
04 Mar 2006 15:01
If the threads are messed up as bad as you say you will have to heicoil that bolt. I have had to do that to several heads. That bolt hole is fragile and is a common problem
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- b200driver
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Re: 900 Head BOLT siezed
04 Mar 2006 16:25
Well, the plan is to run a tap through the hole and see what I'm left with. If I can get the bolt to torque up, then I don't see any reason to heli-coil it. I tried to thread a fresh bolt in there today, and it wouldn't go.
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- racer54
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Re: 900 Head BOLT siezed
05 Mar 2006 00:17
It's been awhile since I've done it, but I used to drill out the bolt hole and rethread it to a larger bolt-whatever thread size you want. I want to say an 8mm but not sure-been awhile. Might have been a standard bolt size but I know it eliminated any problem and never a feel like it was going to strip out again.
1980 LTD (changed over the years), 1979 LTD (being rebuilt), 1977 KZ turbo and various KZ's in various states of build. KLX110
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- kevco
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Re: 900 Head BOLT siezed
05 Mar 2006 20:14
b200driver wrote:
I bought a set of metric taps at Sears a few months ago after an issue with some clutch cover bolts.Anyone know off hand if Sears sells metric taps?

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