timing advancer bolt in crank

like a freekin idiot I broke the bolt holding the timing advancer in the end of the crank...also the little dowel pin.........I grabbed an impact and 13mm socket to take the bolt out instead of holding with a 17mm and loosening the bolt.............WELL.........I had it on righty tighty instead of lefty loosey.......YES, I AM A MORON....now howinthehell am I gonna get it out??? it broke off bout 1/4 inch inside the end of the crank....thanks.......

The only method I know of involves a center punch, an uber-hard drill bit, some careful drilling and a commercial grade easy out. Oh yeah, and a lot of luck.

TexasKZ wrote:

The only method I know of involves a center punch, an uber-hard drill bit, some careful drilling and a commercial grade easy out. Oh yeah, and a lot of luck.

ditto...center punch also will knock a smidge of loose in the thread...then drill it tiny in the center exact....then drill a little bigger,the size of a hard easy out and use a 18v dewalt or ryobi carpenters battery drill and set the easy out,then stop and put some over night penetrating oil with the motor leaned so it will pool in the hole...next day with the cordless in reverse and you may have success...or not...my 2 cents....good luck...bummer....bet you dont do that again in the next ten years...

Chances are the bolt is loose and should screw right off if you can get a bite on it. I think a drill and even a cheap easyout it ought to come off easily, or a reverse drill bit should back it right out. If it's rusted in there, that's another story, but I'd doubt that it is. Whatever you do, don't get excited and break an easyout off in the bolt or you're screwed majorly.

Try putting a little heat on it. I use a propane torch and that usually does the trick. Not to hot though, Easy goes it. Although with heat you will probably destroy the seal on the ignition house. But they are cheap. As mentioned.........go easy. Or you better have a good machinist friend.

Don't feel too bad. Believe me we've all screwed up..
The bolt should not be a big deal, just take the advise of the replies above.
The dowel might be a different issue. You almost have to completely drill out the entire dowel. The dowel is hardened and it's very difficult to drill.
You've got to be careful that you don't mess up the dowel hole when you're trying to drill out the dowel.
One option is....if the dowel is flush with the end of the crank or even sticking out a tad you could take the bike to a welder and (if the welder knows what he's doing) he can tack weld (TIG)a small rod to the dowel and you might then be able to heat up the crank a little bit and pull the broken dowel out.

If it sounds like I know what I'm talking about it's because......I done the same thing as you. In the last 20 years....twice...

Good luck.

Buzz

Fester, some thoughts/cheer. All posts good, I'll add. the locating dowel pin (if origional) was hardened. and a simple slip-in when new. a little penetrating oil and a few prods with an automatic center punch usually allow worring out w/ magnet. and in worst case scenatio, a fresh locating hole can be drilled 180 degrees out. by rotating breaker cam 180 in advance unit your' back to fresh. the retaining bolt, may or may not be semi-free at this point, left hand drill bits and EXACT centering are the 1st opt. often starting with a drill bit which just interferes with the entrance threads will provide a accurate center at broken bit. start small, and insure center, if not removed by the time hole is @ 1/2 dia if bolt, try heat and ez-out, (gently) (ez-outs swell the bit to even tighter fit) if this still doesn't work, continue drilling w/progresivly larger bits til remainder of bolt can be jimmied out w/ scribe. I can not over emphasize the importance of centering the 1st drill shot. now the cheer, Like others, I've been there, I can't recall exactly but at least 7-8 times and have yet to havr to pull/replace crank. go slow, be carefull. If hot headed like me, walk away & think. Luck G

Don't feel bad, as you can see I sheared off my locating pin. Doesn't matter how but I felt like a real ass. Had to drill it out with a cobalt drill. Hard stuff!!

Last ( and I do mean the LAST time) I did that I ended up taking the entire motor out of the frame and taking it to a specialized machine shop that used an EDM machine to burn the broken piece out of the crank. Not cheap, about $230.00 but helluva lot easier than taking the entire motor down to get at the crank.And we raced that weekend...

Gane ++1.

I bought a set of those Craftsman reverse bits just for situations like this, the theory being that now that I have the equipment, I'll never need it.
Good luck with your repair.

I'm gonna try the reverse drill bits.....once I get better....I have felt like crap the last few days and just thought I had the bohemian death flu......but noooooo...the doc says I have bronchitis, ear infection in both ears, and walking pneumonia...........wonderful....

Please get better before attempting any repair involving a clear head. Almost any medication will affect sound decision making especially in something this delicate.

Don't touch the bike until you're better!