KZ1000 Engine vibration

yes the bike will run it will be lean but it will run.

ok another thought here. what sends the signal to the tach. does it read off of the ignition coil? my tach doesnt work very well at lower rpms. it usually reads around 1500 when it sounds like it is at about 500-800. it seems to be accurate higher up in the range (maybe). i am just wondering if one of my coils is bad. i have checked them both with a multimeter against the FSM. can they read the right resistance and still be bad? maybe just at higher rpm they cut out a little. i have observed that the vibration doesnt completely go away at 5k rpms it just gets to be less noticeable.
i have heard of coils working fine until they get hot and then malfunctioning. i am just wondering if they could malfunction only when the rpms are high.

so i have noticed recently that #4 exhaust is not as hot as the others at idle. i originally just felt that there was heat there at all. it gets a little warm but not hot like the others.
So after a harder ride... it gets to hot to hold but not enough for water to sizzle. I have a dead cylinder. or at least partially dead.
I can't believe i missed this but surely this must be the cause of my vibrations.

So now to find out why my cylinder is dead. I check compression and it was good. I am going to recheck it this week.
I have rebuilt the carbs twice now and set the float levels by fuel level and not float height.
And I had previously gotten spark on that cylinder if i pulled the plug out and observed it. I will recheck this as well.

Any ideas?

The plug wires are new.
Took a multimeter to the coils and they are within spec on primary and secondary side.
Did wired georges relay mod. Full battery voltage at coils.
Fully charged, good battery.
Black and green wires from primary end of coils up to the connector behind the left side cover are good.(low resistance from one end to the other)

Spark plugs have about 50 miles on them. #4 is a little bit brown. It is not black so it must be firing sometimes.

I'm a big dope but I did have a similar problem on my 1000. Have you tried switching the leads on #1 & #4 plugs? Just swap them side to side. If the problem does not follow you can pretty much eliminate all your electrical system. On my 1000 it turned out to be the resistor cap was NFG.