gpz transmission

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21 Feb 2009 10:53 #266820 by racer54
Replied by racer54 on topic gpz transmission
This should explain most of what you would have to do. More work then I thought but if you need the strength, this is the way to go!


I?m sure I have posted this info somewhere back in the archives, but here it is again. This time I?m going to save it so I can just paste it up.

The following should be done with a complete undercut job and be performed by an experienced technician for best results.

To fit the J/GPZ trans in the Z1/KZ case the mods are as follows: Input shaft: Using a J input shaft you must bore the threaded end so the 3/8? ball and the Z1 pusher fits inside. Using a GPZ shaft the threaded end must be shortened and re threaded as well as boring.

The 5th gear input needs to be turned down to clear the shift drum and the drum must also be turned because you cannot take all the material from just one of them.

The 4th ? 5th fork must be clearanced on both sides to clear 3rd and 4th gear on the input shaft.

A conversion bearing, spacer and seal are also necessary.

There is also some re shimming to be done on both shafts to obtain proper neutral clearances and engagements. If this is not done correctly, it will get itself into 2nd and 5th at the same time and cause considerable damage. I?ve seen it plenty of times. Chewed up teeth and broken dogs?Very ugly!

There are two different 3rd gear sets and output shafts. The J has 21/30 T and the GPZ has 19/ 27T. They are both the same ratio, but the GPZ set uses a larger tooth pitch with less teeth. The J output shaft uses a bolt to secure the sprocket and the GPZ uses a nut and also has about 3mm. more spline. The GPZ parts are the more desirable ones. If you cannot find these parts, the gpz output shaft (13128-1048) and 3rd input (13129-1566) are still available from Kawasaki. The 3rd output is no longer available, but I make a replacement that is stronger than the stock one.

There are a few more small details, but this is the majority of what has to be done

1980 LTD (changed over the years), 1979 LTD (being rebuilt), 1977 KZ turbo and various KZ's in various states of build. KLX110

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21 Feb 2009 11:34 #266826 by jordan
Replied by jordan on topic gpz transmission
oh thats it:ohmy: . Jeez, maybe i will just stay with my kz tranny and have it undercut. I was just interested in the gpz tranny as if it was already undercut maybe i could get it cheap and save some money. Is anybody else interested in the gpz tranny? Timebomb?

KZ810 streetfighter kz/gpz/gsxr
1983 gs1100e
1979 KZ 1000 1428 dragbike project
1974 kawasaki H1 500 sold :(
1972 Kawasaki s2 350-parted on ebay :(
1973 Kawasaki s2 350-parted on ebay :(
1982 kz750(sold)
1978 kz650 hardtail(sold)
1975 honda xl250-sold
1971 yamaha R5-sold
1982 yamaha xs400

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21 Feb 2009 12:35 #266841 by racer54
Replied by racer54 on topic gpz transmission
I might be interested in the GPZ trans at the right price. For the most part, a properly set up KZ transmission will handle anything a street bike will throw at it...and more. Get a back-cut and possibly a hardened 2nd gear (although some argue this isn't necessary...guy I bought my dragbike from ran a back-cut KZ trans. without the hardened 2nd gear and was running mid-high 8's without any problem for years, although I think it would be good insurance if you plan on abusing the HP) if you want added insurance against problems. Don't think you would have any problems with this set-up.

1980 LTD (changed over the years), 1979 LTD (being rebuilt), 1977 KZ turbo and various KZ's in various states of build. KLX110

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