Engine Reassembly Tips and Tricks

Have any you want to share? I have an 81 KZ 1000 CSR (J engine). I'm curious about whether or not you use gasket sealer, oil cylinders, grease wrist pins, etc. The engine had no appreciable leaks when I tore her apart. I'm doing a top-end rebuild because of lack of compression. Will be reassembling this weekend!!!

Cheers!

Maverick

everybodys got their own ideas about rebuilding motors,instead of starting another free for all ill just say follow the manual and wish you luck!:whistle:

One trick that I glommed from the Zook manual. When you're putting camshafts back in, hold them down with vise-grips. This way your not pulling with the top few threads of the cam cap bolt to pull a cocked cap down. Yo ualso get the camsaft in place and can see that marks are lined up BEFORE yo utighten everything down.

-Duck

I seem to be building more engines than ever over the past couple years. While I am supposed to be selling and rebuilding carburetors, I seem to be doing engines now as well from time to time.

* In order to avoid gasket leaks, I use a gasket sealer. You just HAVE to do some stuff if you are doing work for someone else.

* I use assembly lube on the wrist pins.

* I use automatic transmission fluid in the cylinder bores and on the pistons/rings.

* I like to fill the cylinder head where the cams are with motor oil IF the bike is to be started after the rebuild but if it is to be shipped, I use assembly lube on the cams.

* I also use a bit of assembly lube down at the crank.

* I have gotten to the point where I believe the biggest shortcoming that needs to be addressed is the cam chain and its associated bits. I replace the front rubber bumper EVERY rebuild (the one held in by a phillips screw in the block) as most every one I pull out is cracked and could potentially break. I am very careful to examine the rubber on the rollers as this stuff can just crumble and end up in the oil pan.

* I also replace the drain plug with a magnetic if it isn't already magnetic.

* I replace the engine oil seals

* I replace the seal on the stator cover and make a new stator wiring harness (the one that goes up to the blue plug on the junction box on a 900/1000).

* I re-anneal the copper cylinder stud washers

* I buy a set of engine cover socket head bolts from www.z1enterprises.com including those used on the valve cover and chase every cover hole with a 6mm 1.0 tap, blow it out and make sure it is clean

* I chase the 14mm plug thread and if any is questionable, I use an insert. I always apply anti-sieze compound on the plugs

* I always split the cases if I pull the engine out to install a NEW endless cam chain (I use a master link if I don't). If I split the case, I chase all the thread with a tap on the upper and lower case bolts and clean out the three 8mm splitting threads as many of the cases have been painted and this thread is generally clogged with paint

* I use a new countershaft locking washer and new 20mm 1.5 pitch nut on the counter shaft. The replacement nuts I use are 30mm outside so you have to prebend the washer a tad to get it started bending since the outer part of the nut is slightly larger than the OEM nuts.

* I make sure that the oil filter bolt has the spring and washer located properly on a new filter.

* I clean the pan out good and make sure the oil pump screen is clear.

* I blow out the cam oil journals with compressed air

* I clean the thread on all the case bolts, engine studs and exhaust studs with a wire brush attachment on a drill

* I chase the thread on the cam cap holes and clean the thread on the bolts

* I use RED Loctite on all fasteners INSIDE the engine... that is, the bigger 8mm case bolts on the inside as well as the crank cap bolts. I also use Red Loctite on the upper cam chain idler bolts and the screw holding the front cam bumper

* I use a new o-ring used by the oil pump between the cases

* If I split the cases, I carefully inspect the transmmission gears and shift forks and replace the three springs associated with the external shift mechanism if any are questionable.

* I install new crush exhaust gaskets

* I use 6x16mm 1.0 socket head bolts to install the intake manifolds

* I carefully disassemble the cylinder head parts and put them in a special plastic parts tray to keep everything in place where it can be reassembled back into the same position within the cylinder head. I am also careful to note the starting shim size, valve stem length and then remeasure the valve clearance after reassembly.

* I like to have at least one or two spare cylinder base gaskets on hand in the event there is a "mistake" during assembly of the block to the cases and always "dry fit" the block onto the cases to ensure that it fits over the studs easily BEFORE final assembly.

I have probably forgotten to put down some of the other things I do as I tend to rebuild an engine with an open manual on hand. I rely on the printed torque specs as I can't remember these very well. I will post this set of tips in the articles so I won't have to write it down again. If anyone has any other tips, send them to lesho@bigfoot.com and I will compile these tips and add them to the article. I will send Stein the article in about a week so get them to me as soon as you can either by email or U2U. wiredgeorge

Awesome post WG.

What kind of gasket sealer do you prefer when you use it? Also you should mebbe mention your preferred flavors of Three Bond -- e.g. for stator cover, a tip that helped me with the perpetual oil drip.

Was planning to open a thread on what to look for and do specifically for transmission rebuilds too.

Thanks a bunch WG! Any comments on the durability of the j-engine hyvo type cam chain versus the older style cam chain?

Cheers!

Maverick

WG, GREAT stuff, I'm guessing that was written for the 900/1000 motors, should anything be ignored or added for the 650/750s?

I have never used Threebond branded sealer. Threebond likely makes the Hondabond and Yamabond products as well as Kawabond. The only place I use much is to seal the engine cases and then I use Hondabond HT which sets up more firmly and is very easy to clean. I use the Honda version of this product because I can find it more easily locally. Jeff at Z1Enterprises.com sells the same Threebond product (1203 I think). The other Threebond product is 1104 (I think) and it is more like Yamabond #4 which doesn't firm up much.

As far as sealing the plug in the stator cover, my favorite product is Liquid Electrical Tape which is liquid nitrile rubber which has a very high resistance to oil/gas and seems to work well in this application.

As far as transmission rebuilds, there are two ways to go. If you have a bike machine shop or you yourself are energetic, you can get the gears back cut. this will eliminate most of the problems associated with shift forks wearing a bit. As the gears and forks wear, the forks on a Kawasaki tend to pop out and the back cut eliminates the problem. It is also fairly inexpensive to do by a machine shop. I also know hobbyists and professional mechanics who have touched up the gears with a die grinder to do their own back cut. I don't like to back cut as it makes the need for shifting much more precise. A sloppy shift will be a missed shift. This is why I keep extra transmission parts and buy them regularly on eBay. Once the case is split, the transmission lifts right out anyway and the shift drum comes out easily.

Most of the ideas I have spoken about apply to any Kaw 4 cylinder engine (650/900/1000/J model engine).

As far as Hyvo chain vs old style bicycle chain, the Hyvo chain is far superior and won't stretch as quickly. The downside to the Hyvo chain in a J motor bike is that the upper idler assembly is cheesy and chain position relies on the valve cover (very cheesy). The older style tensioning bits probably cost a lot more to manufacture than the big tensioning arms and cheesy idler but the chain itself is not as prone to stretch. A Z1/KZ900/KZ1000 aftermarket EK chain is good for about 30K miles in my experience where a Hyvo chain is good for at least two or three times that long... don't know where I have seen one wear out so it is hard to say for sure. I don't know about the 650 but suspect some of the Hyvo cam chain info applies.

Put your ideas, like Duck's in a note in this thread and they will get included in an article! I suspect that if I owned a 650/750, I would be looking at replacing the primary chain if I did an engine rebuild... I am sure there must be folks with comments on that issue. The 900/1000 doesn't have a primary chain as the crank drives the transmission via direct gears.

Another tip! When you install the kicker spring and spacer FIRST put the kicker on the splined shaft and ROTATE the splined shaft all the way clockwise to set the gear that engages 1st gear in the proper position inside the engine. Remove the kicker. If you don't you will just have to redo the next step... Next locate the end of the spring into the hole in the case and pull the spring counter clockwise to engage the other end of the spring in the shaft. It is MUCH EASIER to pull the spring around counterclockwise. THEN push the spacer in after the spring ends are located in the two holes provided.

Another note... first time case splitters! Be careful to retain the half moon shaped fitting that fits in slots under the crank. This piece generally goes un noticed and can easily get lost. Also, if you pull out the transmission, there is a little 3/8" ball bearing between the shift rod and clutch to keep the rod from welding to the clutch and this ball bearing likes to fall out of the hole after the clutch pusher is remove and go rolling into a drain or under a cabinet.

Last idea... There is the UP stamped onto the pads on your cam chain rollers. This means that the pads are to be installed UP otherwise the parts that sandwich them won't fit right and everything will rattle and DO NOT FORGET TO PUT THE RUBBER ROLLER for the cam chain on the block before installing the cylinder block. I have done this a number of times. The rubber dampers for this piece are somewhat bigger than for the other cam chain bits so don't use the wrong dampers or that thing will rattle like all get out.