replacing timing andvance crank shear-pin

hey guys...
i was working on double checking MY 1000j project motor prior to resetting the cams and tensioner(tensioner was hanging by one loose bolt when received}...i took out both cams and the tensoiner and turned the motor over to see if it is free...and hit a little rough spot....like an idiot i sheared the crank timing pin.then i used the stator bolt like i should have...motor is free....i got the peice out of the crank simple with a fine easy out....where can i get the right material for a new one? it is a roll shape shear stock(like a tounge rolled up..lol)with a hole left in the center...my factory shop manual says nothing about r&r of crank pin...and there are no threads here that i could find....any help would be great...i know it is a silly question and asmall piece of roll stock is what i need but i not 100% SURE....THANKS GUYS

T, my kz1000A fiche shows pin w/ advancer unit,& points illustration. P/N 92042-034 w/description of Pin,4x8. experiance is that it's a hardened steel pin, tho in use, it simply locates advance unit.and a simple roll pin of correct dia. could be used. good job in getting reemains out, been there, been angry.G, hope this helps...

thanks it does help i have no one around that works on their bikes... so without kzr and you guys...somthing simple like this ...not bounced of of a sounding board....slows me down...i have a tiny cheap irwin easy out kit and wasn't even sure if i should try...sucks being unsure...the pin came right out on the backout bit....i'm gonna take the scraps to the hardware store...it does not look like special steel...thanks again

T, it's a wild assed guess, but there is a chance you're not the first to shear that pin, thus it's being a mild steel "rolled pin" something I can't remember ever seeing ever, in OE. My kaw's are all points models, and service manuals all describe rotating crank via the larger "faux" nut at advance unit for setting timing both ignition and cam. certianly there should be no need to disturb the stator cover gasket to rotate crank, and even cdi ecu/ pickup bikes allow inspection under dry covers. perhaps those w/more current bikes will chime in. luck G

your thinking mirrors my initial suprise at clipping it so easy....the stator cover was off allready ,,,,this bike was another kz guys project and he died before finishing where it sat for nine years with oil in the engine and under a cover in a garrage but parts hanging or one screw in a cover type deal...right after shearing the pin i stepped to the left side of the bike and with a 17mm sockett on the stator bolt finshed turning the motor through a rusty spot in a cyl(i assume)...from there it turns freely and smooth movement(no grinding or metal on metal...so i think i just Fu*&&^^%ed up over powerd the shear pin and gotta put a new shear pin in.....thanks for the reply...peace

Don't feel bad trianglelaguna. I did the same thing doing something stupid but hey.... now we know, huh? :woohoo:

Been there, done that, angry etc...

I was told to be careful with the EZ out due to the pin likely being hardened -- was surprised how easy it was to remove.

But thing I was gonna say -- I found this part was still available through Kawasaki at like $1.87 or something, got it at my dealer in about three days. I'd do this (and maybe get two?) before I'd use an Ace hardware roll pin.

The best way to remove the pin if snapped off is to drill it with a cobalt drill bit. I don't recall what size but I have done it before. I have a large selection of cobalt drill bits which I use for my business...

Anyway, get one of the pins that has a slit on the side and compresses. You can tap it in the hole and it will stay just fine. I have had one in for thousands of miles on one of my bikes. I don't recall the name of this type pin. Use an automatic center punch on the broken pin and stay on the pin as it is very hard. An EZ-Out will BREAK so I would highly recommend not using one. If you broke the EZ-Out you will end up with the crank in a machine shop. If you use one of the pins I have used, you will have to cut it off some as it will likely be too long. I used a Dremel tool with cut off wheel.

ordered two today... three day wait....3.50 a piece...simple fix ...thanks folks

so i got my sheer pins from kawi and put one in and(nice little blue steel rolled jobbers) replaced the timing advance mech and bolt....i need to set my pistons for for installing the stock cams and tensioner....it is different from my z-1 kz limited experience and there is no top of the head cam chain roller assembly which threw me off when i turned it by hand the first time and saw the cam and slack move before the ex cam..i guess it has a guide in the valve cover..i really gotta read the chapter in the 81 j shop manual i bought again and again..... and the cam tensioner releases dif than i'm used to.....soooooooooo...i am gonna have some questions this weekend when i get going on it.....i am pretty sure i can figure it out reading...the manual is kinda ass backwards and jumps around ......update and yes pictures later...thanks guys

Out of curiosity, what method did you use to remove the leftover pin?

i had a irwin tools(the hardware stores irwin) ex-1 spiral screw extractor...5/64" in my tool box allready so..for 3.65 it worked perfect it has a hard drill bit and a back out and it took 30 seconds and i was done broken peice threaded onto the backout instantly and was free.......i'm keeping my kit in it's package for all small screw work ...speedos,,,ect....hammmy wrote:

Out of curiosity, what method did you use to remove the leftover pin?