What Split collars are used on 650 V&H pipe

I don't have the original split collars. Jeff at Z1 sent me some new ones supposed to be for the V&H, but they are to long to get everything bolted up? What am I missing here?

Muddy wrote:

I don't have the original split collars. Jeff at Z1 sent me some new ones supposed to be for the V&H, but they are to long to get everything bolted up? What am I missing here?

Are the collars fitted correctly with their flanged ends fully seated into the clamp recess, and the plain ends facing the engine?

Good Luck!

Muddy wrote:

I don't have the original split collars. Jeff at Z1 sent me some new ones supposed to be for the V&H, but they are to long to get everything bolted up? What am I missing here?

how close are nuts to starting on ex studs? my vance and hines collars were a tad longer and i ended backing out exhaust studs a couple of turns
enough that i could get em started...the studs on mine werent too crappy, so i could pull it off....keith

The Exhaust Studs are flush with the flanges, can't even start the nut.

Muddy wrote:

The Exhaust Studs are flush with the flanges, can't even start the nut.

do the studs look decent enough to attempt backing them out a bit? mine had a spot in the middle with no threads so i used vice grips on em...if they are treaded all the way, i guess you could double-nut them and try it a little and see if they budge....i d be carefull though...you could always hit the edge of the flange that goes against gasket on the bench grinder....keith

V&H pipes use a slightly longer split collar.

This is needed due to the lip on the header pipe (that goes into the head) being half the thickness of the factory pipes.

Make sure your old exhaust gaskets have been removed from the head - often the are crusted into the head and you don't even know they are still in there.

Jeff.Saunders wrote:

V&H pipes use a slightly longer split collar.

This is needed due to the lip on the header pipe (that goes into the head) being half the thickness of the factory pipes.

Make sure your old exhaust gaskets have been removed from the head - often the are crusted into the head and you don't even know they are still in there.

Would the new gaskets you sent fit in if the old gaskets are there?

Jeff.Saunders wrote:

V&H pipes use a slightly longer split collar.

This is needed due to the lip on the header pipe (that goes into the head) being half the thickness of the factory pipes.

Make sure your old exhaust gaskets have been removed from the head - often the are crusted into the head and you don't even know they are still in there.

]ust took a break from the Rose Bowl to take a look, and thats exactly what the problem was. You couldn't even tell they were still in there. Thanks Jeff.

Muddy wrote:

Jeff.Saunders wrote:

V&H pipes use a slightly longer split collar.

This is needed due to the lip on the header pipe (that goes into the head) being half the thickness of the factory pipes.

Make sure your old exhaust gaskets have been removed from the head - often the are crusted into the head and you don't even know they are still in there.

]ust took a break from the Rose Bowl to take a look, and thats exactly what the problem was. You couldn't even tell they were still in there. Thanks Jeff.

Jeff, I tried it again this morning and even with the single gasket there's no way the split collar will work. Is it possible you sent me collars for a different bike?

Would also check for a second old gasket encrusted in the exhaust port. Sometimes, two old gaskets are used during reassembly instead of one new gasket.


Are you positive that the split collars are positioned with the plain end abutting the header flange and with the other end (the curved end) snuggly fitted inside the clamp channel. Sometimes it requires some maneuvering to assure close snug fit at the clamp/collar interface.

If not already done, after removing all old gaskets, and cleaning the port surface (with acetone and a q-tip, or spraying with brake cleaner or carb cleaner), use a dab of Permatex high-temp copper silicone to hold each new gasket in its place inside the port. Let it set up for a few minutes so it will hold the gaskets in place while you're busy keeping all the collars and clamps together and pushing the header into position without parts falling all over. Also okay to put masking tape around the split collars for holding them together on the pipe during the installation. Then it's much easier to lift and maneuver the header into position when only having to fool with the clamps and assuring fitment at all the clamp/collar interfaces.

Good Luck!

How did you make out on this problem?