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there such a thing as a "drop in cam" on a kz900? 18 Dec 2008 19:59 #253470

  • trianglelaguna
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so i'm gonna finish getting my block off this weekend ..i have the bore kit and block...but,, i don't know anything about cam upgrades....i've read there is a small upgrade cam that requires some casts + marks to be ground off the inside of the cam cover where the lobe spins.(no problem)..
Can i buy a drop in cam? is it gonna be worth doing performance gain wise ...i think the kit is a 10.5 to 1 1015 or 1025 cc(i'll have some better numbers and piston i.d questions monday)...
the set would be... bore kit (cams ??)29 sm bores.dyna and coils supertrapp . .header.pods..
Can i install em and set my clearances and run em without removing my valves this time ...??? where do they sell them????thanks ..peace craig
1976 KZ900
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife

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Last edit: by trianglelaguna.

there such a thing as a "drop in cam" on a kz900? 19 Dec 2008 03:59 #253517

  • davel
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www.webcamshafts.com/ grind number 118

A true dorp-in-cam. No mods necessary. Even valve clearences should remian within spec but definitely double check after installing. Good performance increase over stock. Stock lift is around 0.320 compare to 0.365. A little more duration as well.

This cam is listed at $425 from the Web Cams site. This is almost $100 more than I purchased it for a couple years ago!...

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there such a thing as a 19 Dec 2008 05:21 #253521

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davel wrote:

www.webcamshafts.com/ grind number 118

A true dorp-in-cam. No mods necessary. Even valve clearences should remian within spec but definitely double check after installing. Good performance increase over stock. Stock lift is around 0.320 compare to 0.365. A little more duration as well.

This cam is listed at $425 from the Web Cams site. This is almost $100 more than I purchased it for a couple years ago!...

thanks that link is what helped...thanks again ...not a bad price...peace
1976 KZ900
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife

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there such a thing as a "drop in cam" on a kz90 19 Dec 2008 09:41 #253553

  • APE Jay
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Craig;

Everything you need is right HERE

We have the smaller cams available but have never pushed them because they cost as much as 410s and won't make the same power, so we never felt they were a good value.

I would strongly recommend you go thru the head , which at that time you can put the good springs in. If we do the head, and you say you are going to run, say the 410s, the we can cam clearance it and install the springs while doing the rest of the service.

Jay

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there such a thing as a "drop in cam" on a kz900? 19 Dec 2008 11:18 #253563

  • larrycavan
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1015cc motor with 29mm smoothbores.......IMO, the #118 is a very good choice for a small cc street bike.

They'll give you a nice power spread from 2500RPM on up. You won't be waiting for the cam to come on.

The K410 is nice cam and will make more power. It also won't begin to go to work until 4000+ RPM on a 1015 with a stock head.

Decide what kind of powerband you prefer before you jump into any cam selection.

If you would like to expand the stock motors powerband...make it stronger but still maintain the low rpm civility. Web 118 or similar grind.

IF you want a small cc hotrod and don't mind waiting for the rpm to build before the motor turns on, then the K410 is an excellent choice.

JMO....been down this road lots of times

Larry C

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there such a thing as a 19 Dec 2008 18:08 #253592

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larrycavan wrote:

1015cc motor with 29mm smoothbores.......IMO, the #118 is a very good choice for a small cc street bike.

They'll give you a nice power spread from 2500RPM on up. You won't be waiting for the cam to come on.

The K410 is nice cam and will make more power. It also won't begin to go to work until 4000+ RPM on a 1015 with a stock head.

Decide what kind of powerband you prefer before you jump into any cam selection.

If you would like to expand the stock motors powerband...make it stronger but still maintain the low rpm civility. Web 118 or similar grind.

IF you want a small cc hotrod and don't mind waiting for the rpm to build before the motor turns on, then the K410 is an excellent choice.

JMO....been down this road lots of times

Larry C


thanks larry i will take your advice...becuase i'm pretty happy the way the power curve builds right now and i guess all the motor talk on this site just made me think a cam was somthing i'd need...not knowing what it intails..i want a street bike that i can canyon carve with..not a dragbike(no offenese anyone)so the cam you describe is what i envisioned...thanks alot for the response...peace
1976 KZ900
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife

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there such a thing as a 19 Dec 2008 18:43 #253602

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trianglelaguna wrote:

larrycavan wrote:

1015cc motor with 29mm smoothbores.......IMO, the #118 is a very good choice for a small cc street bike.

They'll give you a nice power spread from 2500RPM on up. You won't be waiting for the cam to come on.

The K410 is nice cam and will make more power. It also won't begin to go to work until 4000+ RPM on a 1015 with a stock head.

Decide what kind of powerband you prefer before you jump into any cam selection.

If you would like to expand the stock motors powerband...make it stronger but still maintain the low rpm civility. Web 118 or similar grind.

IF you want a small cc hotrod and don't mind waiting for the rpm to build before the motor turns on, then the K410 is an excellent choice.

JMO....been down this road lots of times

Larry C


thanks larry i will take your advice...becuase i'm pretty happy the way the power curve builds right now and i guess all the motor talk on this site just made me think a cam was somthing i'd need...not knowing what it intails..i want a street bike that i can canyon carve with..not a dragbike(no offenese anyone)so the cam you describe is what i envisioned...thanks alot for the response...peace





larry is right ...410 s will be great upstairs but if you want a nice linear pull,go with a web 118 or if you can find a set , andrews 2x or something with a similar lift...
iirc, most you can go without head clearancing is .380 or so.. once you go above that you will also have to spring for hd valve springs....see redlinecycle.com....they sell new and used stuff...dynoman.com also sells cams at good prices...i snagged a set of 2x off ebay for my 1075 10.5 to 1 kit and i cant wait to get it together..just waiting on the return of my gone through head...your combo with 29 mm should scream....want to sell those 29 s?...lol....keith

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Last edit: by keith1.

there such a thing as a 19 Dec 2008 19:21 #253608

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keith1 wrote:

trianglelaguna wrote:

larrycavan wrote:

1015cc motor with 29mm smoothbores.......IMO, the #118 is a very good choice for a small cc street bike.

They'll give you a nice power spread from 2500RPM on up. You won't be waiting for the cam to come on.

The K410 is nice cam and will make more power. It also won't begin to go to work until 4000+ RPM on a 1015 with a stock head.

Decide what kind of powerband you prefer before you jump into any cam selection.

If you would like to expand the stock motors powerband...make it stronger but still maintain the low rpm civility. Web 118 or similar grind.

IF you want a small cc hotrod and don't mind waiting for the rpm to build before the motor turns on, then the K410 is an excellent choice.

JMO....been down this road lots of times

Larry C


thanks larry i will take your advice...becuase i'm pretty happy the way the power curve builds right now and i guess all the motor talk on this site just made me think a cam was somthing i'd need...not knowing what it intails..i want a street bike that i can canyon carve with..not a dragbike(no offenese anyone)so the cam you describe is what i envisioned...thanks alot for the response...peace





larry is right ...410 s will be great upstairs but if you want a nice linear pull,go with a web 118 or if you can find a set , andrews 2x or something with a similar lift...
iirc, most you can go without head clearancing is .380 or so.. once you go above that you will also have to spring for hd valve springs....see redlinecycle.com....they sell new and used stuff...dynoman.com also sells cams at good prices...i snagged a set of 2x off ebay for my 1075 10.5 to 1 kit and i cant wait to get it together..just waiting on the return of my gone through head...your combo with 29 mm should scream....want to sell those 29 s?...lol....keith


thanks man...i'm saving this thread cuase theres answers for my build..big time answers now(suppliers too)....you know...on another thread they were talking about e-bay bidding crazy on stuff(i agree)..but...i watched for a while for 29s and got my smbores for 220 somthing last year...thank god a guy had sprayed em black cuase i did not want to pay 500 ...most... of the blacks off now...peace craig
1976 KZ900
2003 ZX12R
2007 FZ1000
2004 ninja 250R for wife

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there such a thing as a 19 Dec 2008 19:46 #253612

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trianglelaguna wrote:

keith1 wrote:

trianglelaguna wrote:

larrycavan wrote:

1015cc motor with 29mm smoothbores.......IMO, the #118 is a very good choice for a small cc street bike.

They'll give you a nice power spread from 2500RPM on up. You won't be waiting for the cam to come on.

The K410 is nice cam and will make more power. It also won't begin to go to work until 4000+ RPM on a 1015 with a stock head.

Decide what kind of powerband you prefer before you jump into any cam selection.

If you would like to expand the stock motors powerband...make it stronger but still maintain the low rpm civility. Web 118 or similar grind.

IF you want a small cc hotrod and don't mind waiting for the rpm to build before the motor turns on, then the K410 is an excellent choice.

JMO....been down this road lots of times

Larry C


thanks larry i will take your advice...becuase i'm pretty happy the way the power curve builds right now and i guess all the motor talk on this site just made me think a cam was somthing i'd need...not knowing what it intails..i want a street bike that i can canyon carve with..not a dragbike(no offenese anyone)so the cam you describe is what i envisioned...thanks alot for the response...peace





larry is right ...410 s will be great upstairs but if you want a nice linear pull,go with a web 118 or if you can find a set , andrews 2x or something with a similar lift...
iirc, most you can go without head clearancing is .380 or so.. once you go above that you will also have to spring for hd valve springs....see redlinecycle.com....they sell new and used stuff...dynoman.com also sells cams at good prices...i snagged a set of 2x off ebay for my 1075 10.5 to 1 kit and i cant wait to get it together..just waiting on the return of my gone through head...your combo with 29 mm should scream....want to sell those 29 s?...lol....keith


thanks man...i'm saving this thread cuase theres answers for my build..big time answers now(suppliers too)....you know...on another thread they were talking about e-bay bidding crazy on stuff(i agree)..but...i watched for a while for 29s and got my smbores for 220 somthing last year...thank god a guy had sprayed em black cuase i did not want to pay 500 ...most... of the blacks off now...peace craig




29 s are going for sick money now....i m bidding on some 28 s to replace my 26 s...carbs are going
through the roof for decent stuff...good luck with your build....keith

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there such a thing as a "drop in cam" on a kz900? 20 Dec 2008 08:04 #253657

  • Old Man Rock
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There's one more thing to think about regarding the terminology of drop in Cam's.... Degreeing in your Cam's!

From Cam Manufacturers:

If you change/update your cam shafts (after market non OEM), adjustable cam sprockets, timing belt/chain, tensioner, cut your head or deck your block, you must degree in your cams!


My head is presently on my way back home after valve/P&P so in the mean time I purchased Dale Walkers DVD (Degreeing Cams) and have been studying the DVD as well as WebCam's procedure and other manufacturers cam degreeing literature and they all state the same....

Translation as follows... Unless OEM cam and cam sprockets... you must degree in your cams!

What I came to realize when they say "Drop in cams", this truly only means as I understand it anyways, where no machining is required on the head or valve covers, that's it nothing more... Maybe I'm wrong here, so others with more experience in this matter please free to jump on in and correct me...

The there's also shims to think about!

In speaking with old school guys who have so much more experience in this than I, Larry C, Buzz at Dynoman, numerous forum members (Plummen, Sandy, Timebomb, Mark1122 just to name a few) you name it... The terminology of just install and good to go, well no, more to it than that... ;)

OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter

Phoenix, Az

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