1075 Kit Questions

Hey everyone, I've been slowly diving into my 1981 kz1000 ltd project and hit my first round of questions here. I got the jugs and head off today and the jugs look ok, but one has some scoring in it that I'm worried about. I've been searching for some info on the 1075 kit and have some questions.

I want a 1075 kit for about 90% street use and maybe 10% strip. Thats a generous 10% too, itll be a street bike and I need reliability. What are there for kits out there? Do I see 1075 kits with higher CR's as well as ones with lower CR's. Wheres the best place to get the streetable 1075 kits?

When I have to do my boring, I just have to get the jugs bored correct?

I'm not new at all to motors and mechanical work, just new to the insides of a KZ.

What should come with these kits? Just the pistons? rings too?

Thanks everyone, any help would be incredible!

freebyrd24 wrote:

Hey everyone, I've been slowly diving into my 1981 kz1000 ltd project and hit my first round of questions here. I got the jugs and head off today and the jugs look ok, but one has some scoring in it that I'm worried about. I've been searching for some info on the 1075 kit and have some questions.

I want a 1075 kit for about 90% street use and maybe 10% strip. Thats a generous 10% too, itll be a street bike and I need reliability. What are there for kits out there? Do I see 1075 kits with higher CR's as well as ones with lower CR's. Wheres the best place to get the streetable 1075 kits?

When I have to do my boring, I just have to get the jugs bored correct?

I'm not new at all to motors and mechanical work, just new to the insides of a KZ.

What should come with these kits? Just the pistons? rings too?

Thanks everyone, any help would be incredible!

hi,
look around , 1075 kits are abundant...i am installing one with 10.5 compression and i grabbed a set of used andrews 2x cams....my head is being redone as i write and i cant wait to get it back...looking at bike 1/2 apart is getting old..all the piston kits come with piston rings and circlips or buttons ...depending on where you get it, also base and or head gaskets...your jugs
if decent should need just bored to 1075..APE sells packages with cams.....i got my stuff (mtc pistons, buttons, gaskets, redone jugs with a new finish,jugs all bored and matched to pistons) from florida....you have a lot of options where to go and who does what.....do your research, ask a lot of questions if need be , and good luck....keith

keith1 wrote:

freebyrd24 wrote:

Hey everyone, I've been slowly diving into my 1981 kz1000 ltd project and hit my first round of questions here. I got the jugs and head off today and the jugs look ok, but one has some scoring in it that I'm worried about. I've been searching for some info on the 1075 kit and have some questions.

I want a 1075 kit for about 90% street use and maybe 10% strip. Thats a generous 10% too, itll be a street bike and I need reliability. What are there for kits out there? Do I see 1075 kits with higher CR's as well as ones with lower CR's. Wheres the best place to get the streetable 1075 kits?

When I have to do my boring, I just have to get the jugs bored correct?

I'm not new at all to motors and mechanical work, just new to the insides of a KZ.

What should come with these kits? Just the pistons? rings too?

Thanks everyone, any help would be incredible!

hi,
look around , 1075 kits are abundant...i am installing one with 10.5 compression and i grabbed a set of used andrews 2x cams....my head is being redone as i write and i cant wait to get it back...looking at bike 1/2 apart is getting old..all the piston kits come with piston rings and circlips or buttons ...depending on where you get it, also base and or head gaskets...your jugs
if decent should need just bored to 1075..APE sells packages with cams.....i got my stuff (mtc pistons, buttons, gaskets, redone jugs with a new finish,jugs all bored and matched to pistons) from florida....you have a lot of options where to go and who does what.....do your research, ask a lot of questions if need be , and good luck....keith

heres where i m at so far....

@ Keith... Mine looks the same! :laugh:
It's not going to surprise me who's doing your head work.... Mine on it's way back!

Some of the best prices I've found...
dynoman.net/engine/pistons/kawa.html

Cylinder Modification & Replacement Parts
All replacement pistons are sold complete with Piston pin, Retainer Clips, and rings

1075cc
Dynoman $419.95
2.835" or 72.00mm 2.5mm oversize
Stroke - 66mm K1076 10.25:1 Cylinder boring only
Piston: 4548M07200 Rings: 2835XC Piston Pins: S523
Retainer Clips: CW17 CFM20 Head Gasket: W3918
Optional Base Gasket: W5026

If you want to keep your cylinder in tack, an additional $100 this kit includes the already bored cylinder, no broken fins... ~ $600.

www.overstockpartsgalore.com/engine1007.html

Just keep in mind, cylinder boring/honing per hole is ~ $80 these days... Some have found even cheaper but that seems to be about the going rate.

Good luck and don't forget, images are a must!

OMR

Old Man Rock wrote:

@ Keith... Mine looks the same! :laugh:
It's not going to surprise me who's doing your head work.... Mine on it's way back!

Some of the best prices I've found...
dynoman.net/engine/pistons/kawa.html

Cylinder Modification & Replacement Parts
All replacement pistons are sold complete with Piston pin, Retainer Clips, and rings

1075cc
Dynoman $419.95
2.835" or 72.00mm 2.5mm oversize
Stroke - 66mm K1076 10.25:1 Cylinder boring only
Piston: 4548M07200 Rings: 2835XC Piston Pins: S523
Retainer Clips: CW17 CFM20 Head Gasket: W3918
Optional Base Gasket: W5026

If you want to keep your cylinder in tack, an additional $100 this kit includes the already bored cylinder, no broken fins... ~ $600.

www.overstockpartsgalore.com/engine1007.html

Just keep in mind, cylinder boring/honing per hole is ~ $80 these days... Some have found even cheaper but that seems to be about the going rate.

Good luck and don't forget, images are a must!

OMR

nope not the same..i have a LOT more polishing to do to make mine look like that!!!!:laugh:

Keith1, I think that your motor looks incredibly clean. i love how that looks like that!

OMR, you have a ton of time into that motor and it looks incredible! and that link you sent for the 1075 with cylinder, pistons, etc..... that looks like a sweet deal. That should be everything I need correct? I definately should go that direction as I broke a couple fins already! I started a project thread last week, but so far it is all disassembly. I'll definately keep the camera ready when parts come together little by little!

My original cylinder had numerous broken fins so I went with the cylinder with the kit... The way I saw it, the quote for the fin repair was ~ $250, plus $80 a hole.
Ouch....

Even if the fins where good I'd go this route due to the $80 a hole x 4 = $320. For an additional $100, I get the hole shubang, already bored!

Everything is there... Cylinder (bored & honed), pistons, rings, wrist pins, clips, gaskets (base & upper)

NOTE: I did have some issues in dealing with these guys at first but they made it right! Several posting on the subject...

OMR

freebyrd24 wrote:

Keith1, I think that your motor looks incredibly clean. i love how that looks like that!

OMR, you have a ton of time into that motor and it looks incredible! and that link you sent for the 1075 with cylinder, pistons, etc..... that looks like a sweet deal. That should be everything I need correct? I definately should go that direction as I broke a couple fins already! I started a project thread last week, but so far it is all disassembly. I'll definately keep the camera ready when parts come together little by little!

keep us posted , with pics of course...good luck...

Thank you both a ton! Is there anything I should be wary of and inspect in the bottom end before re-assembling? Should I check the bottom end? What should I look for, what are some typical things I should do/check for? The bike ran when it was assembled, but the piston rings were in rough shape.

"Is there anything I should be wary of and inspect in the bottom end before re-assembling? Should I check the bottom end?"

I'm probably the wrong person for this due to I blew a hole in my engine case...My own dumbass doing mind you but here goes.

In answering your question, yes unless you are the original owner... Plain and simple due to not knowing the history of my bike, nor what had happened to it in the 25 years it sat, nor how it was riden and taken care of, by all means I had to split the cases and visually inspect and repair any damages.

Same time, I was replacing the timing chain (endless chain) and splitting the cases is required in accomplishing.

In doing so, I found that my shift forks where catching on the shift drum slots, so I replaced. Sure I could of probably got by but for what I had invested in the project... a little piece of mind was worth it...

Just my two cents worth, ok all, rip me apart! :laugh:

OMR

Oh absolutely, its definately the way to do it. I have a sevice manual, I'll have to read up about it. Are there any surprises or tricks I should know about when taking it all the way down? Anyone have or know of a thread or write up on it? People on this site are always 100 times better at explaining then a manual, write ups and pics would be amazing. Thanks!

I had good service from Joe Hooper at this place. He has replacement cylinders reasonable. His baked on finish looks great too.
stores.ebay.com/Pit-Stop-Performance-Store