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HEAD TORQUE QUESTION
- keith1
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using ape studs and hd nuts, would i be over doing it at 35?......just wondering and would appreiate input from the more experienced....as always thanks........keith
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- Old Man Rock
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Follow the link...
Jay's reply was 36-42 ft/lbs is the recommendation.
kzrider.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&...12681&catid=2#212681
Also use search "APE Stud nuts".... Several posting on the subject...
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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Still recovering,some days are better than others.
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- Old Man Rock
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Since I'll be doing the same here on my project next weekend, torque @ 38 I understand...
For the re-torque, stay with 38 as well or slightly higher up to 42?
Also, I like the lube idea... Just plain old grease or something different such as silicon based, lithium based etc...?
Thanks,
OMR
1976 KZ900-A4
MTC 1075cc.
Camshafts: Kawi GPZ-1100 .375 lift
Head: P&P via Larry Cavanaugh
ZX636 suspension
MIKUNI, RS-34'S...
Kerker 4-1, 1.5" comp baffle.
Dyna-S E.I.
Earls 10 row Oil Cooler
Acewell 2802 Series Speedo/Tach
Innovate LC1 Wideband 02 AFR meter
Phoenix, Az
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- Patton
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- KZr Legend
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Per FSM (77-79KZ1000) ... first loosen the bolt or nut by half a turn and then tighten to the specified torque.
The FSM is silent about the general proposition of using lube on the threads (unless I missed seeing something about it) to help later assure a more accurate torque setting.
Am happy leaving to others far more qualified any debate or pros and cons about any issue here, or whether there is an issue.
Using grease or a dedicated product such as Neverseize is a good idea imo when applied to a steel bolt running in aluminum threads. As it helps avoid galling reaction beween the different metals. Anyone having broken off an engine cover bolt while attempting to remove it will know why and likely agree.
Sparkplugs are special. As I understand it, new plugs come with a coating of some sort which allows an easy torque and later removal --- once, as it supposedly only works on the initial plug install. So I confess to appling a small dab of moly grease or Neverseize on the sparkplug threads when replacing the plug, especially when replacing a previously installed plug. And in a pinch, have just used a little plain motor oil.
Good Luck!
1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- keith1
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- bountyhunter
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I think you need to make sure the nut face and the head are smooth so the nut doesn't drag as you are cranking on it. I didn't use grease, as long as the threads are clean and smooth and the surfaces don't drag, I don't think grease is necessary.Perhaps too obvious to mention, but the engine should first be allowed to reach normal operating temperature, and then allowed to cool off and be completely cold before torquing down the head nuts (and bolts).
Per FSM (77-79KZ1000) ... first loosen the bolt or nut by half a turn and then tighten to the specified torque.
The FSM is silent about the general proposition of using lube on the threads (unless I missed seeing something about it) to help later assure a more accurate torque setting.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- timebomb33
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1973 z1 2-1974z1-a,2-1975z1-b dragbikes1015cc+1393cc, 1977kz1000,1978kz1000,1981kz1000j, 1997 zx-11, 2000 z12r,1428turbo nitrous pro-mod and a shit load of parts thats all for now leader sask.,CANADA
I THINK MY POWERBAND BROKE
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- dman3998
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I lifted this from another forum, but it says it all about wet or dry. I believe MOST head specs are wet, and the type of lube is important also.
dman
Dman
SE Idaho
"Smart only goes just so far, STUPID is UN-limited"
79 KZ1000 LTD
Honda XRL650L
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Yamaha DT400B
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- timebomb33
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1973 z1 2-1974z1-a,2-1975z1-b dragbikes1015cc+1393cc, 1977kz1000,1978kz1000,1981kz1000j, 1997 zx-11, 2000 z12r,1428turbo nitrous pro-mod and a shit load of parts thats all for now leader sask.,CANADA
I THINK MY POWERBAND BROKE
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