Broke Another Clutch Cable, found a way to fix it

Did it again, this is the second cable to break, always in the same spot the lead piece on the end of the cable that fits in the handle. Two were after market cables, one was the original cable, replaced it. Not sure what brands they were. I have always lubed the cables and the ends when I install them and regular maintenance on them. Keep in mind I only had this bike restored and running since July this year. That's a cable per 2 months. The cable doesn't fray, the lead piece splits in half and the cable comes out. I would love to know what is causing this. A buddy's bike 03 honda, has about the same pull on the lever, I really don't think it pulls hard, Clutch works flawlessly. Clutch springs are original. Doesn't touch exhaust but runs between the pipes. I believe the first one broke to binding because of bad routing, but the second one was good. Got both cables from the local cycle shop, wanted 65.00 for kawasaki brand, these were 17.00. Probably got what I paid for.

On the up side I did find a way to fix cables that have broken like this. The little tubes used to line up the cam shaft bushings, fits in the lever. I had a dozen extra from the great ebay. Drilled a hole in the center, cut it to length of the old end piece. Stuck the cable end in and filled it with lead fishing weights. So far, works good.

Any thoughts on what caused this would be appreciated.

I can only offer a couple of ideas for this take them as you will.
1. perhaps the sprocket cover flexes. If the bolts are stripped below and do not tighten properly the cover can flex and thus break a cable.
2. perhaps you are using shit cables. Stock cables are not necessarily better. Motion Pro cables are relatively cheap and fairly durable. They don't always come good from factory so some fail. It's a given considering where they are made. Quality Control. Not much demand for these any more so not much to gain from selling quality cables. I assume.
3. they have a replacement for the bottom pushrod that is roller bearing or something like that. Greatly reduces the pressure on the cable thus making butter smooth shift and longer cable life. This you should use if you are going to stick with cable shifting. I think ape might carry this part or perhaps z1enterprises. Check ape first. The roller bearing makes the clutch MUCH easier to disengage. www.kzzone.com

4. They make a hydraulic clutch changeover that is expensive 1000+/- but then you will never replace a cable EVER again. Thinking about this one but for sure the cable fix I was talking about my friend did and it works b e a utiful! Gonna do it to mine. Although I have ridden over five thousand on this cable now. My other bike one of the threads stripped on the sprocket cover and I went through cables just like you at the same place and wouldn't last more than two months.
Hope that helps.

If your clutch lever pull is not excessive, that really rules out anything except bad new cables or possibly the lever itself is goofed up damaging the cable.
The clutch should pull in pretty easily, I just went out and tried mine and I can easily pull the clutch using just one finger, so if your harder than that you've got problems.

You say the ends are lubed, what do you use? I dip the end of the cable in bearing grease and put a dab into the lever hole. I'm on my second Motion Pro cable in 30,000 miles. Not too bad for the money I guess.

Also don't neglect putting some wheel bearing grease on those splines inside the case cover that rotate to push in the clutch rod. If those go dry lube elsewhere won't help. That along with cable lube and a glob of grease on the lead barrell at the lever will keep a cable going a long time.

One finger is plenty to pull in the clutch. I use bearing grease on the end in the lever, and the bearing on the push rod as well. Would it be better to tie the cable to the frame or just leave it free. Is there really a big difference between a kawasaki calbe and a motion pro? I went to the local shop to order one they say the kaw brand is 35.00 vs the 13.00. I am a very cheap person, mostly, except it seams when I did the resto.
Thanks

I went out to take a look and found I am missing one bolt and had another loose. Thanks for the advice.

bubbap wrote:

... Would it be better to tie the cable to the frame or just leave it free.

A cable clip was oem on the Z1 and KZ900 left front downtube (and guessing also on other models) to keep the cable away from the header pipe. The clips work just fine on my bikes.

Clutch cable CLIP from Z1E

Good Luck!

Bub, your' prob is a new one to me. snapping cables w/out fraying is most common at ends which are usually affixied by brazing or dip-pots.(which allow solder(for better term) to penitrate inner cable making them stiff/brittle for a distance from end.)kinking on installation or galling is usual cause. most current cables come with teflon sleeves around lever ends, actually breaking an end is new to me. breaking cables unfortunatly is not. however I have learned that a broken clutch cable is meerly inconvenient, not stranding, and a broken throttle cable (where there are A & B's ) can usually be swapped at carb allowing use (abett backwards and usually w/out full motion) to get home. enduro riders used to route spare cables along side originals just in case. I've an old BSA which breaks it's throttle cable periodicly just to piss me off. I keep a spare wound up inside the headlight bucket just in case. Have a laugh at my expense, but if any of this helps I'll be happy.G