Maintenance

Hi,

Earlier this year a '76 KZ900A4 came into my possession; it belonged to my uncle who passed away from lung cancer. Over the last few months, I've had the bike gone through mechanically and installed a Dyna S ignition. Otherwise it's pretty much stock.

I finally conjured up the cajone's to ride it over the weekend (perhaps I should preface this by saying the biggest bike I had ridden prior was a 125 dirt bike!) AND I HAD A BLAST!!! The thing ran great, and I'd like to keep it that way.

Can anyone recommend for me a good routine maintenance regimen for this bike? I don't know a lot about bikes, but I can turn a wrench and I'm pretty decent with cars. The bike will be ridden occasionally (at least weekly in the warmer months) and seldom to never ridden hard.

If someone could point me to a previous thread or an article on the site or somewhere else on the net, that'd be perfect. Thanks all for your time.

General Motorcycle Maintenance
(From the archives of Jason Van Slyke) www.ixpres.com/jvanslyke/kawi/kawi.html

General rule of Thumb - check everything once per season or every 2500 miles - exceptions = valves,plugs, brake fluid, fork oil, gas and
vacuum lines - every 10,000.

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Tools
Really good tools are essential if you are working on a bike which hasn't been serviced for years. If you take good and regular care of your
bike however, you will be able to make do with the cheaper stuff. You can't go wrong with Sears Craftsman---the lifetime warranty speaks
for itself.

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Wrenches
Calibrate whenever you use it (unless you used it yesterday). An expensive unit gives piece of mind. An in/lb wrench is a must. Most 8 &
10 mm bolts are set to 40 to 80 inch pounds.

Manuals
Buy a good quality shop manual---the best is the official "factory" manuals which run $40-50 and include all the specs and lists of special
tools. Clymer / Haynes is a good second choice at half cost, but you get what you pay for. It may seem like a lot of money but if you look at
it as one hour at the shop, it suddenly seems really cheap.

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Oil Change
Rather than forking over big money for synthetics, put that money into more frequent oil changes. Most of the data material on the Internet
supports this.

Warm up engine before changing oil to help flush all the metal and make it drain more completely. Drain the oil through a fine screen or a
loose knit cloth to trap stuff so you can troubleshoot any problems. Don't over tighten oil drain plug - and if you have an old CB750, buy a
couple new hollow bolts from Dennis Kirk or whomever before you start mucking around.

Some manuals recommend changing the filter every other oil change, but you should splurge on your pride and joy, so fork over the
additional couple bucks. Generally fill with the oil recommended in your service manual. 20w-50 should be fine in eternally warm climes
such as San Diego.

Carb Synchronization
If you have a rough idle, galloping, backfiring, or uneven acceleration you may need your carbs synched. The idea is to get all the
individual cylinder vacuums to match to suck in equal amounts of gas into each cylinder to make the explosions more equal and the
engine smoother. The procedure is similar for all multi carb engines.
Remove seat & fuel tank to get at the carb adjustments and vacuum connections. A Hemostat is convenient for crimping the gas line so it
doesn't leak on you. You'll need an auxiliary fuel supply because the engine must be running for this test and the tank will (usually) have
to be disconnected to access the carbs. Connect this to the gas hoses on the carbs.
Check your manual to determine the idle fuel mixture settings specs. Warm up engine. Tighten mixture screws gently and back them out
to factory specs. Turn #1 screw out until it idles roughly, turn it the other way until the idle gets rough the other way, and then set it to the
approximate middle of these two settings.
Repeat for other carbs. Some carbs use a fuel mixture screw and some use air bleed, but the procedure is the same. Clockwise is
leaner; counter-clockwise is richer

CARB SYNC:

To sync the carbs you need a gauge set or carb stick. Contact Dennis Kirk @ 1-800-328-9280 or J.C. Whitney @ 1-312-431-6102.
Most tuners prefer mercury carb sticks as they are more reliable and don't require calibration. Connect hoses to the carb vacuum stalks
while being careful they don't touch any hot surfaces.

Most multi-carb set-ups have a central bell crank linking them; on the Kawasaki the bell crank is on a shaft running through the top of the
carb bodies, Yamaha uses a BC on the #3 carb and the rest link to that. Most use shaft - slide body, but Yamaha uses a butterfly carb.
Syncing is the same for all.

Aux fuel hooked up, idle mix set, carb sticks hooked up and set, start the engine again (you warmed it up previously) and set idle screw
so it idles at about 1000 - 1200 rpm. Pick a carb you want to be your standard (traditionally #1) and set others' vacuum to match it.
Adjusting screws are located under the carburetor top cover cap where shaft goes through carb body. The screws are normally painted
yellow at factory.

CAUTION Don't rev the engine and then allow rpms to fall too quickly---the engine will suck in the mercury. Not Good. Be Smooth. Sync
the carbs in any order you want.

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Chain
Don't do this with your oil change. Wait until you can take a spin for 20 minutes or more to warm up the side plates on your chain so the
oil can lubricate better. Don't lubricate the rollers BOZO, spray it between the moving plates. Be sure to use lubricant formulated for an
o-ring chain if you have one. Use kerosene once in a while to clean it up, then be sure to douse it liberally with lube when you're done to
prevent rust.

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Fork oil
Get the bike up on the center stand. If your bike has air valves on the tube tops, remove the valve with a standard tire valve removal tool.
Place a pan next to the front wheel and remove drain screw on that side of front shock (usually a Phillips head screw or 8mm hex head
down near the front axle) and oil will start coming out.
For bikes without an air valve, pump the front fork up & down to get the oil out. Following is the quick and dirty method for refilling:
Prop up front end, remove fork caps, fill an 8 or 10 oz. pump oil can and pump oil into drain orifice. Immediately plug hole with your finger
until drain screw is in.
10w is recommended but you can increase dampening with 20 or 30w---but be sure it is formulated for use in a fork.

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Brakes
Drum brakes
Cable or linkage activated; remove wheels, check pads, replace if too thin.
Disc brakes
Disc brakes are a little more maintenance intensive. Brake fluid becomes contaminated through time by water/humidity. Flush once a
year on older bikes. Hook up a piece of 1/4" x 24" I.D. clear hose to bleeder nipple on brake caliper put other end into a can or jar. Loosen
bleeder 1/2 to 3/4 turns and slowly pump hand or foot lever, add new fluid to the master. Continue until fluid is clear. Tighten bleeder, top
off master cylinder and tighten cover. The hose should prevent air from being drawn into the system and indicates condition of
fluid/system.
If you don't service your system the caliper pistons may seize and stick and your brakes will overheat and wear prematurely. To fix, remove
calipers - don't remove brake lines yet. Remove brake pads and cover to master cylinder. Place a can under loose caliper and pump
master as you add fluid (using air pressure won't work on a stuck caliper piston.) The piston will pop out and fluid will pour out. Clean
piston with steel wool (lightly) and the interior of caliper with a clean rag & clean brake fluid (A vacuum pump is really handy for this). Use
DOT 3 or 4 as recommended by MFR.
CAUTION Using gas or solvents on brake parts will destroy the seals. Inspect seals for torn edges & cracks.

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Polishing
The once shiny engine covers & aluminum frame members are now chipped and dull. Go to your local auto parts place and pick up a 7 or
8" soft polishing wheel for an electric drill. and a can of standard rubbing compound, medium grit. Apply a fair amount to the wheel and
buff away. It takes a while to get the old clear coat finish off of the parts but once it's off you will be amazed at the shine. When done, clean
the surfaces with a non-residue cleaner like lacquer thinner. Apply a coat of "Nylac" - Eastman Company 1-800-345-1178 very good clear
finish (just brush it on - spray type also available) won't chip or yellow --- rated for 650 degrees temp. If you choose to not clear coat you
will have to rebuff often.

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Seat Repairs
Fir fixing small rips use a needle and clear fishing line. It's strong and won't rot like standard thread. To make it look new, try some black
vinyl stain - it really works. - Dennis Kirk part # 30-1249

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Valves
Overhead cam engines Approx. 10,000 between adjustments - but adjustment is difficult and requires some special tools. Honda inline
fours (DOHC) require a special feeler gauge to get down to the shim bucket. All (DOHC) require a valve bucket holder, the bucket holds
the spacer shim on top of the valve stem. Follow the procedures in your manual to the letter, don't over tighten exhaust valve clearances;
loose is better.
Caution with the bucket holding tool in place be very carefully you don't rotate the cam lobe into the tool as this will break a portion of the
head off - Mega bucks Most dealers (if they're any good) will take the old shim in trade + 2-3 bucks. Make sure you place the shim in with
the number down so the came doesn't wear the number off. (dealers won't take shims without numbers.) Also you may be able to switch
shims from one valve to another minimizing the number of shims you will have to purchase.

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Spark Plugs
Changing plugs is pretty easy but there are some important hints to observe. If you live in a seasonal area and the bike is up on blocks
for part of the season, it's a good idea to change the plugs annually, 12,000 mi or 18 months is normal. Before you unscrew the plugs,
get a air hose and blow off the top of the head around the plugs, failure to do this simple step may lead to sand & dirt falling into the
cylinder when the plug is removed. Check the plug condition and color, this will tell you a lot about the condition of the engine and
fuel/timing. Color should be light brown,white and blistered would indicate overheating or too much ignition advance.
When you tighten the plugs, be careful not to over tighten. Torque is 18 ft-lbs, go over this and you will need boucoup bucks.
Wet Black Shine--probably burning oil from worn rings, worn piston, worn or loose valves, wrong oil ratio (2 cycle) or faulty ignition.
Coated Electrode--electrodes coated with a dry black soot means fuel mixture is too rich.
Glassy Electrode--electrodes covered with a light brown glassy deposit have overheated. Plugs may also have cracked insulators or
eroded electrodes. If the plug is off correct temperature range, the condition may be caused by a lean fuel mixture, an engine running too
hot, improper ignition timing or poorly seated valves.
A normal plug will have a white, yellow, light tan or rusty brown powdery deposit on the electrode. If the plug is fouled, corroded, burnt or
cracked, you have some other problem a new plug is not going to fix. When reinstalling the plug, do not coat the threads with oil or
anti-seize compound as it will reduce thermal transfer through the plug. Spark plugs with gaskets are finger tightened, then turned 1/4th
turn to snug then down. Tapered seat plugs get only an additional 1/16th of a turn after finger tightening. Always use the heat range
recommended by the manufacturer.

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Oils --- Synthetic / Mineral
Use 100% synthetic motorcycle oil under three conditions.
First - if the engine is already broken in properly.
Second - if it will be subject to extra stress like hot conditions, heavy load, mountain riding or if you cannot change the oil as often as you
should. Third - if you want emotional peace of mind and have the money to spare.
Going through all the oil FAQs make one point clear - more important than the synthetic/natural question is how often you change your oil.
In addition, you want to get your bike warm enough when you ride it to evaporate any water in your oil system and decrease acid build-up.
Get 20W50 and a bunch of oil filters with the money you save from not using synthetic and change your oil every 2000 miles (longer for
hwy miles) and before you store it, if you have to live in an area where you can't ride 12 months a year.

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Cable Lube
You can use a special oiling tool available at most dealerships that clamps on the cable and forces aerosol lube down it. Another method
is to put a small amount of light oil in a balloon, insert the cable into the end of the balloon, tape the balloon to the cable housing using
duct tape, hold the thing up in the air and let the oil feed down though the cable by gravity.
In any case use a light oil or lightweight cable lube designed for this or you will develop cold weather problems.

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Chain Maintenance
Lubricate the chain after each ride rather than before,This has three benefits: it gives the lube time to work in between the links before
being flinged off, removes grit and grime, and dissipates water on an O-ring chain. The technique is simple. Place bike on center stand,
with the engine off and the transmission in neutral, spin the wheel by hand and point the spray into the area between link plates and
bushings. This is the area you need to lube. You do not need to lube the roller faces, these faces are designed to contact the sprocket.
After the lube sets up, wipe off the excess so it does not collect gunk.

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Carb Overflow
Your bikes been sitting around for the winter or longer, you open the fuel petcocks and gas starts streaming out of the airbox, now what?
The float needles are scaled up and not sealing shut. All you have to do is rip the carbs off and clean or - grab the airhose and give the
inlets a shot of 90# air. Many times this will "clear" the debris and you'll be riding agian.
Here's a tip on how to make carb rejets & cleaning easier
It is usually possible to change jets, clean the bowls or even adjust the float level without removing the carbs and with the bike on its
center stand. It may be awkward to access it this way, but it is much quicker than removing the entire carb assembly.

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Ignition Trouble-Shooting
If you're have major firing problems, you may have an electrical problem. You're very lucky if the engine still can run, but if it does, see how
hot each exhaust pipe is by spraying a little water on them or touching them. If two out of four are bad, then you may have an ignitor (black
box) or coil problem.
Pull the spark plug from a cold cylinder. Is it wet with gas? Ground the plug to the head and hit the started button. Is there a spark? If there
is, then it may be a weak spark or a mechanical problem. If there is no spark, then congratulations, you have an electrical problem.
Pull apart all the connectors and check to see all the wires are solidly in them and that they aren't broken somewhere on the body. On
suspect areas clean by sanding lightly and lube with tuner cleaner, not WD-40. Before you start exchanging coils and ignitors to see
where the problem is, remember that these are electrical and you'll want to disconnect the battery just in case.

Absolutely no rights reserved.

At least 2 times a year take her out for some drinks (quality 10-40) then take her for a hard ride. Between these times catch a good ride whenever you both have time and never let it get past a few days between a good look quick blast and a tickle. Generally once a month or so give her a good rubdown. They love baths(candles are nice but not really needed) so soap her up good and remember to use warm water when rinsing her off...she will appreciate it. Don't forget the protection. If she starts stiffening up on you some appropriate lube will free up her controls and she will again be smooth n'easy like you likey.
......And if she is a bad gi.....er...bike. Flog her baby! Lube her and flog her! Don't forget to "beep" it "beep" dozens of times. Pay strict attention to it's "beep" "beep" "beep" parts! For gods sake don't "beep" or "beep" anybody else's bike! :blush:

Oh yeah and get a Pre-Nup!!