lock up clutch?

Once again another post dealing with my dragbike motor build. I am thinking about what i will be using for a clutch. I have heard of alot of racers use a lock up clutch. I have read the descriptions at ape and other companies, but still do not fully understand how they work. Also if anybody would be able to explain how you launch with this type of clutch. Also, are they streetable at all, i would need something that is still streetable.

I dont know about the lock up type, but you can run the Barrnett clutch on the street, its hard to pull and you better damn well be ready to go when you let the clutch out

Hand clutch that launches like any other using the clutch lever.The lock up bolts on over the stock hat and applies additional "clamping" pressure on the plates through the use of weighted arms that compress the clutch pack by centifigal force as the clutch basket spins.Look up www.MRE.com for more info.- they pretty much invented lock ups.

Lots of folks run lock ups on the street,just remember if the motor's revving the lock up is going to apply more clutch than a stocker.

Is it any easier to launch with a lock up clutch. The launch is where i suffer, but i guess i have only been to the track twice.

With a lock-up, when you are at full throttle, depending on how you have it set up, you have to let off the throttle to shift because the arms on the lock-up are applying more pressure to the pressure plate then stock. If you put it on without any weight on the arms, it's basically like a stock clutch. Nothing really changes over a stock set-up. The idea is to use soft (lite tension) springs so the clutch slips a little more then stock so you can launch without the clutch locking up and trying to pull front wheel off ground. You regulate the clutch by using weights on the arms and the springs used. The springs determine how hard the bike moves in the first 20-30 feet or so and the arms (with weights) determine how fast, soon and hard the clutch locks up. Depending on what you are trying to do, determines the set-up in springs and weights you use. Purpose for weight is to put more pressure on clutch to lock-up the clutch when you are applying more HP to keep clutch from slipping at high RPM. What issues are you having on the launch?

think of it as a mini bike clutch on steroids,tiger you wind it up the farther out the weights go basically.stick with a good ol APE clutch with extra plate and you should be fine,i just dont like the looks of the cover sticking out like a big tumor on a streetbike !:laugh:

I use a lock-up clutch on my KZ based dragbike.
The nice thing about a lock-up clutch is you purposely use light weight springs to set the static pressure. This allows the clutch to slip in a controled manor off the line so you don't bog the motor or blow the tire away. And then add weight to the arms to lock the clutch up after you launch the bike.

I normally launch my bike at 7200RPM and I run an air-clutch, so I just release the button which releases the clutch.

I do not recommend Barnett clutches or any other after market fiber plate. I have the best and most consistent launches with OEM Kawasaki fibers and hard-chromed steels - same as what people use in their slider clutches.

Oh, one other thing, don't use the clutch when up-shifting (when racing). If you don't have an air shifter, get one. Otherwise, just pre-load the shift lever with your toe, then in a coordinated motion, snap the throttle closed while simultaneously up shifting the transmission, then immediately snap the throttle open again. After all, air-shifters don't use the clutch for up shifts.