Here is a tough one!

I would still like to know what caused all the oil burning, although it may be the head I would rather know for sure and make positive that it is fixed before I put it back.
I would be real pissed off if it did it again.

but the upside to all this, you will have a tight motor when done

at this point I on't think there is any definitive way of knowing where it was coming from, the big end of the pipe was wet with oil but the exhaust ports wern't that bad, I think it was coming from the emission ports as I found 2 of the threaded plugs wre loose in the ports, which could allow oil into the exhaust but not into the combustion chamber, unfortunately sometimes trial and error is the only was to diagnose a problem.

Well I got my J head, came from a 1998? police bike with 38k on it, dissassembled it and the guides are nice and tight, valves and seats look good. Brought to work today and milled the head and cam cover for the APE tower, need to lap the valves and get this thing assembled before it gets too cold!!

you go boy!and about those pictures:laugh: haha.

are you going to ball hone the cylinders and install new rings as well?

Ihave decided not to hone and re-ring because there is no ring ridge and still cross-hatch from the last bore job, anyway here are some updated pics, I took some to show what you have to miil out of the head and cam cover for the APE tower, also showing the custom stainless NPT smog hole plugs I made, as well as the before and after of the valves, I just finished lapping all the valves and have put in the new valve seals.

if you haven't got the head back together i'd get a valve job done at the same time those contact areas on the valve faces look awfully wide it is worth doing. don't just lap the valves when you do that all you are doing is wearing the seats and valve seats out even faster.

Call me silly, but every car, bike, lawn mower, etc. engine I have worked on I lapped the valves just like zombiescustoms did. :huh:

They never had a problem that I know of. Did I miss something?

Always looking to learn you know.

timebomb33 wrote:

if you haven't got the head back together i'd get a valve job done at the same time those contact areas on the valve faces look awfully wide it is worth doing. don't just lap the valves when you do that all you are doing is wearing the seats and valve seats out even faster.

what is the recommended contact width at the seat?

.o40" seat width depending on what you are using it for tells you where to place it on the valve. right out to the edge of the valve face if your are racing more or less centered for the street. if you lap the fresh valve job you have just changed the seat location and width. if the quides and seat are concentric you should not have to lap them. the width of the valve seat controls how much heat you get rid of into the head and it also has an effect on gas flow.

Good stuff timebomb33! Thanks for the info.

So if I understand correctly, the wider the seat and therefore the greater the seat contact area then:

- The more heat gets transferred to the head of the engine... which is a bad thing.

- The more turbulence is produced and therefore the more resistance/back pressure is produced so that the engine does expel as much waste gas... which is a bad thing.

Did I get this right?

By the way, any one... are there any counter balancing advantages to a wider seat that need to be considered for specific riding styles, reliability, etc. ?

Well wide seats or not, the head is assembled, I thought about doing alot of things but then I had to step back and realize this is a $1500 motorcycle, as long as it runs decent and does not burn oil and I can run it on pump gas I will be happy!