No Compression (WHY)

I recently redid the head on my 81 KZ 550 GPz. It had a slightly blown gasket, it was leaking a little oil on the side of the cylinder. So I Took the head off had it machined and the valves were redone also. Now the bike was running great before I did this, now when it is all together it does not start at all. I have checked spark and everything then I decided to check compression. WOW it was under 30 psi's on all of them 1,2 &4 were like 12 and 2 was at like 28. Now I think that it might be the timeing issue. I have the front cam the EX line right above that is flush with the head at the front of the motor. then the z/5 are lined up flush with the head at the back of the motor. Is this correct?
The thing that gets me the most is that it was running fine before I took the head off and now all of a sudden there is no compression, WHY.

Thanks

Did you set the valve clearances? When I had the head redone on the KZ400 years ago, I failed to do this and was tearing my hair out as to why it wouldn't start. Dad said, "Did you set the valves?" Duh. Fired right up after that.

Valves stuck open,timing incorrect,timing chain installed incorrectly,piston rings worn,hole in piston(s)

Finding the cause of no compression can only be just a few things.

no I did not set the valves but that would make the compression get a lot higher because the valves would not open far enough. Right. but I am getting like NO compression, and I do not understand why. Like I said it was running great just before I took it apart. I was just wondering if anyone knows if the timing marks are correct. I have a book and I did exactly what the book says but this would not be the first time I had a book that was wrong.

Assuming that all the kawasaki DOHC 4's have the same cam set up, Did you line up your timing marks with head making sure that the cam chain was tight in the front and then count the chain links back to the mark on the rear sprocket?
On my 1100 it is 44 links front to rear. it should expain it in your manual.

yes did exactly that. says that the z/5 mark will be between the 43 and 44 pin on the chain. I have turned the crank a couple of times to make sure that the marks still line up properly and they do everytime.

EEcor999 wrote:

no I did not set the valves but that would make the compression get a lot higher because the valves would not open far enough. Right. but I am getting like NO compression, and I do not understand why.

No, it surely would not. The valves would be staying partly open all the time. If they are not seating tight your compression will be crap, just like you are reading.

When they machine qa head they cut the seats deeper, and that means you either have to grind the valve ends (which they probably didn't do) or you have to install thinner shims to restore valve clearance.

So I Took the head off had it machined and the valves were redone also

What do you mean by "had it machined"?

If it involved removing material from the mating surface of the head, then the cams are at least a little out of time. The more material removed, the further out of time the cams will be.

Did you install the cams wrong the first time, hear a "clunk" when you turned the motor over, then go back and time the cams again?
I'm asking because that is a real common error, and the usual cause of no compression after installing the head.

sounds like valves out of adj, big time or bent valves, could be a combo of both at this point.
before removing the head, pull the cams and use a compressor to fill the clys with air, if they hold air, then its valve adj, if it comes out the ex or intake,, sadly remove the head, bent valves

As suggested by BZKZ650, a leakdown test on each cylinder will positively reveal where the air is escaping from the combustion chamber, and show exactly which valves are not sealing (intake, exhaust or both), and/or whether compression is escaping past pistons and rings into crankcase.

Air escaping through a leaking exhaust valve will be heard at the exhaust port or inside the exhaust system.

Air escaping through a leaking intake valve will be heard at the carb intake.

Air escaping past the pistons and rings will be heard at the crankcase vent.

A leakdown test is quick, easy and unintrusive, and requires no disassembly other than removing a spark plug in the cylinder being tested. The test is of course performed when the engine is not running, and renders a lot of information about overall condition of the engine.

A tester is sometimes available as a loaner tool from local auto-supply dealers such as AutoZone.

Z1E also carries the loadtest tool.

The tool diagnoses the source of the compression leak. It of course does not remedy the cause of the leak.

Good Luck!