Some '80 KZ1000 ?'s

OK, I was going over my ride and found that all of this stuff was missing...(see pic)


From reading posts from a search I did, I find that the"stuff" isn't necessary and running a hose from one valve cover side to the other and plugging the vacuum lines will suffice and that's how it is now. Is this Kaw's attempt at a smog system? And, is it OK to have it in it's current configuration? Sure don't want to buy that air valve!$$$

Also, I would like to defeat the clutch switch so I can start the bike without holding it (I'm diligent enough to check if it's in gear before hitting the starter). Is it OK to just short the two wires together permanently since the switch is N.O.?

Sonny

wired george said -
Re:Revisiting those Vacuum hoses again 1 Month, 1 Week ago
The KZ750, like almost ALL bikes of this vintage use reed valves located in the valve cover to collect unburned crud and burn it by depositing it into the runner that has egress in the exhaust runner just outside the combustion chamber on the exhaust side. This area is HOT. Anyway, the reed valves are operated by a vacuum switch which connects via a big hose which tees into the ports above the reed valves. The switch itself is controlled by vacuum from those two fittings on the #1 and #4 carbs (carbs and cylinders numbered 1 to 4 from left to right as you sit on the bike). The EGR or ASS system (called either tends to make the bike backfire on decelleration and doesn't do much for performance one way or the other unless the system is compromised. There are many hoses and many chances for the system to leak air. Since raw air into the vacuum lines kind of ruins the function and causes the carbs to race (rev high), the system is best pitched. To get rid of it, take off the vacuum hoses to the vacuum switch from the #1 and #4 carbs and use vinyl vacuum caps; rubber deteriorates within weeks. Remove the switch and hoses to the valve cover and the hoses to the air box. You can plug the airbox or patch the hole as you like; it isn't critical. You MUST not let the holes over the reed valves stay open because if the bike backfires, you will suddenly have flames coming out these hole... under the tank isn't all that amusing. I use BLACK PERMATEX RTV to plug these holes. Just fill them up and let it dry. You could use JB Weld or run a hose between them (interconnect the two snouts). Removing this junk will clean up the area atop the engine and be less prone to vacuum leaks.

Thank you!

The vacuum lines on mine are just hanging loose beside the airbox and I've been experiencing backfires through the exhaust and rpm "hangs" during shifting so, I'll try plugging the carbs and see if that helps.

Slowly but surely, I'll rectify all the PO's "modifications" and get this bike in shape!

Sonny