1978 Kz1000 LTD.....NOISE!!!!!!!!

Man, I am sure glad this place is here. I am new to this forum. I also need some info. I bought a KZ1000 with 21,000 miles and in fair condition for $800. I heard the noise when I bought the bike and figured I could fix it. The sound is a rattle that is constant in the top of the engine. I adjusted the chain per manual instructions and it still does it. I then removed the valve cover and everything looks ok and the chain feels tight. What part or parts usually go bad here? The guide or rollers etc.? Would you replace all of these while you have it apart? I know I will need to remove the head but was just wondering what others experiences have been with this problem. I am also going to send the carbs off to have them reworked while it's apart. Thanks for any info, David

You need to check the valve for proper clearances. This engine uses shims to reduce or increase the space between the cams and valve buckets. Fortunately this year of engine did not require the cams to be removed to adjust the shim thickness.

Get a good shop manual at either www.repairmanual.com,www.onlinefreebooks.net, or a Clymer or Haynes book of instruction on how to check valve clearances.

For carb work I'd recommend www.wgcarbs.com

Hello, David and WELCOME to KZR! We're glad you're here!

Thinking 21,000 miles is barely broken in, and way too soon for major repairs in the cam chain area.

If not already done, should have it set at TDC while resetting the automatic camchain tensioner.

A rough running engine at idle speed and lower rpm range may dramatically increase cam chain noise.

With the carbs returned to pristine as new condition, and no air leaks, often a good carb synch (manometer while engine running) will lessen the camchain noise, especially at idle rpm and low rpm range. Also a good tune-up, including new plugs, ignition timing, and assuring the automatic advancer is properly functioning --all will lessen camchain noise due to "rough" running at lower rpm and at idle rpm -- by smoothing engine operation.

And the valve clearances too, as MFolks already suggested, are also critical to smooth engine operation, especially noticable at idle rpm and in the lower rpm range.

Of course the carb tuning should be addressed last, after all the other components are brought to specs.

If not already done, would change oil and filter, install an inline fuel filter (probably also flush tank and clean the petcock). And all the routine maintenance stuff as well. You know -- chain, air filter, etc. etc.

Again, WELCOME, and Good Luck!

Thanks for the replys and y'all are right. I need to fix everything else and make all adjustments before tearing it down. I even thought about taking the tension adjuster off and making sure it was ok. The reason I thought this might be something to do with the cam chain is because when me and a friend first heard it, that is what it sounded like, a chain rattling around. He has several of these old bikes and he told me to take the valve cover off and see if i could see anything wrong. I will adjust the valves and do other stuff to see if that clears up the problem first. The bike had definately been neglected as far as maintenance.

I am ashamed to tell this but since no ones actually looking me in the face I will tell it. I bought this bike knowing it was in bad shape and had a rattling noise. I rode it home, changed out the coils and wires and let it run a while one day. It got pretty hot I noticed. After y'all told me to change the oil I did. Welllllll.... the big dummy I bought it from never put any oil in it!!!!! When I drained it, there was only about a quart of black murk. I am a dummy for not looking better and assuming. What I thought was oil was a film on the glass. The first thing I should have done is made sure it had oil. These are tough motors though. It never seized up and doesnt smoke but probably hurt some things. The cams looked good so hopefully it's OK. Probably explains the noise.:S When I get the header back on I will see. Thanks again for the help, David

that sucks......the only advice i have is change out the muck and filter (a must at this point), put in 4 qts 10w40 and run it easy for about 20 mins. dump oil and change filter and repeat again....do again after about 100 miles and hope for the best...there are definitely particles in there you want out.......good luck......

That is what that little window in the clutch cover is for.........chris3