Motor Needs Rebuilt. Lets go BIGGER!

81' CSR 1000. Leaks oil pretty good from the valve cover area so If im going to rebuild it and have it apart I figured I could go to about 1300CCs or so.


Now Ive been looking at APE parts. But I am confused about which kit would get the job done. Im looking for a kit that would be just below overkill. I ride everyday for about 60 miles.

What Do I need to take into consideration here? What about the stock carbs? Will they support somthing that big with larger jets of course?

Any help on this subject would be great. The sooner I can Figure this out the Sooner I can get started, its gann be the winter project.

How much money you got in the bank? To do this right, if you go bigger cc, you will need bigger cams, carbs, etc. to have a good combination. Bigger cc will give you more bottom end torque which, if this is going to be a daily rider, would be fine. Don't go to a big-block unless you are willing to have a hot running motor in traffic. I see a 1170cc is the biggest to fit in the stock cylinders. That is a good motor. Ran a 1135cc years ago. Good torque out of it. If you go bigger, you will have to pay for bigger sleeves, which, costs more. To use the bigger bore, I would suggest larger carbs and cams, although they aren't necessary. Just the bigger bore would be a stump puller but easy to ride around. Bigger cams and carbs will give you better all-around power but you would lose bottom end grunt. Depending on how big you go on these parts, depends on how much. A 1170cc with around .385 lift cams and either 29 smoothbores or (better) 34mm carbs would be a great all-around drivable motor. Bigger cams would start taking power away from the bottom rpm range but giving it back at high rpm running. It all depends on what you are willing to live with. Nothing beats a big cc motor but there are trade-offs. Personally, I would stay with 1170 instead of paying for the bigger sleeves to go 1260. There wouldn't be that much difference in power anyway. Some, but, to me, not worth the extra cash. Spend it somewhere else. If you go this far, I would split the cases and have the crank welded, trans. gears back-cut also. Build it over-kill in strength so you know it will handle the extra power you will be using more often. Yep, you build it and the throttle will be used much more, more often. Can't resist the temptation to use it...after all, that's why it's there! But like all things, there is more than one way to go about this. Honestly....how are you going to use the bike? Daily driver only? Do a little hot-rodding at the track? This makes a big difference on what parts would be best. Let us know and we can give better suggestions when we know your true intentions for the bike.

Ive got a couple thousand I could spare rougly 3k. I just want something that is reliable, the heat dosent bother me it already runs hot, I want a New crotch rocket, but I like the look and sound of the older bikes, and the speed of the new ones. So I guess im after daily rider that is a monster, like a sleeper. In one Word I would like "beast" to fit it nicely. ha..Id like to Get a kit from ape with cams, pistons, etc etc.

Maybe all it needs is a valve cover gasket.

Already replaced it, along with the cam end plugs.


It makes all kinds of noise.

A 1981 CSR 1000 will not go to 1170ss without new sleeves. So sleeve it and do a 1260 with 34 carbs and cams and you will love it.

We had a customer that would buy up Eddie Lawsons and have us do 1260s and ship them to Japan. They were a huge hit over there.

Jay

A v1981 CRS1000 will not gom to 1170ss without new sleeves. So sleeve it and do a 1260 with 34 carbs and cams and you will love it.

We had a customer that would buy up Eddie Lawsons and have us do 1260s and ship them to Japan. They were a huge hit over there.

Jay

how much HP would give a 1200cc with 34 mm carbs and 0.395 webcams??

With all the new torque, you may want to consider a crank weld and balance...

Definitely, new heavy duty cylinder studs and bolts.
Heavy duty timing components (chain, gears, guide, rollers).

OMR

Don't forget to get the head flowed to feed the new found hungry beast. 1260s are definately beastly on the street . A minimum of 33mm smoothbores on that muhfuh . Then hang on to your shorts , this thing will change your sex when you drop the hammer on it. OMR, had the right idea about getting the crank straightened and welded if you're going to hammer on it .

Thats really a big problem, im not sure who I could have do the welding, and other work like that.


What would this cost to ship it to you jay and have it worked over?

I have to agree with Jay.. He's done a couple of stock block 1260 cylinders for me and they perform great. With APE K410 cams, stock shim on top buckets, stock cam gears,stock head, stock transmission (except 2nd gear),a welded crank and 35 Mikuni roundslides the bike will run 10.0s all day long AND the engine will last, and last and last..and it looks like a stock 900 or 1000!!!
I live in the desert and can still ride the bike almost all year long without heating problems.

Good luck with your project....

Buzz