need help with clutch basket

Hi, I have a 1982 kz1000 LTD and have noticed a new noise in the clutch housing, I removed the cover and noticed that I can rock the inner hub back and forth about 1/8 of an inch. I removed the assembly and found that the springs on the back of the inner hub have been rubbing on the inside of the engine case. I then tried to move the transmission shaft were the clutch mounts to and the shaft has no side play but you can move it in and out about an 1/8 of an inch. My question now is do I need to shim the transmission shaft and if so can it be done with the engine still in the bike.

A 82 KZ is a little out of my vintage so what I say is not set in stone.
You need a new or rebuild your clutch basket. Just what you wonted to here right.
The wrest part is you have to split the case have's to do it.
Other then that it's not hard to do. Wish I had better news.

XENU

I think it's even worse than that.

There's a bearing on each end of the transmission input shaft, and to move the shaft 1/8" means one of those bearings is bad, and it's more than likely the bearing behind the clutch. That bearing is a press fit on the shaft, and it has a groove in the outer race to positively lock it in place so it can't move.

So if the shaft can be moved in and out 1/8", that bearing must be bad.

pic from kawasaki.com parts diagrams.





.

I knew it was bad news and I think spliting the cases might just be a little over my head.

kboom36 wrote:

I knew it was bad news and I think spliting the cases might just be a little over my head.

Is this the bike we're talking about?

The bike has a wiseco 1145 kit installed and 36mm mikuni flatslide carbs and a Kerker header with no baffles.

You can do it yourself, it is a PITA and time consuming, but assuming you have a place to work and tools (or access to both) it's not terribly difficult. You will need help to lift the motor (unless you're King Kong like my Nephew), and access to a hydraulic press (assuming it is the right side bearing), and a manual.

Look at it this way, you paid for the big bore kit, the carbs, and the cams, and got the bike, the exhaust, and all the work that was put into it for free. Isn't it worth a little time and effort to fix it?

And it will only cost you $150 to $200 if you do it yourself.


Now for that infamous phrase

"While you're there" I'd check to see if the crank was welded, and if not then I'd invest the money to get it welded. That bike should be capable of producing some serious hp, so it would be good insurance

Even I, World Renowned Cheapskate that I am, would have paid $1500 for that bike locally, even knowing that I'd have to split the cases to replace that bearing (assuming that's actually the problem)






Fixed this $%$#&^ post finally!!!

I would Quote you Steel:
But I don't think I need to. (grin)

That job is not that hard to do. Give it a try. You don't even have to take the
top end apart other then the cams. Unless you have to do the crank.
You might wont to look into a welded clutch basket also.

XENU