Valve shim removal

I have a 77' kz1000 that I am trying to do some valve adjustmnet on. I have the tool from Z1 and an assortment of shims. I tried to wedge the tool reccomended to hold the bucket while removing the shim. However I cannot get the shim out. Is it supposed to be a pain in the rump? I am using a pick and a magnet as reccomended. When I try and pry the shim up the tool that is wedged is holding it down on one side of the bucket. Am I using the tool wrong as this is my first time doing this. What led me to checking valve clearance was when I went to sync my carbs one of the carbs was giving me a reading between 1 and 3 lbs the 3 others were between 8 and 10. The gage shows possible low compression when between 0 and 5. So I am hoping the valve clearance needs adjustment and nothing more seriuos. All input on removing the valve shim and carb sync reading will be greatly appreciated. I was in the garage for an hour trying to get one shim out. First the wedge tool kept popping out, then once it was secured I could not get the shim out. Very frustated.:S

Thanks for your help.

Are you rotating the engine over,to get a cam-lobe to fully OPEN a valve,BEFORE trying to fit the tool into place?
That is how it's done.The tool is NOT intended to pry on the shim,to gain clearance.
Let us know how you're doing it,exactly...

jbrewer73 wrote:

I have a 77' kz1000 that I am trying to do some valve adjustmnet on. I have the tool from Z1 and an assortment of shims. I tried to wedge the tool reccomended to hold the bucket while removing the shim. However I cannot get the shim out. Is it supposed to be a pain in the rump?

It's a royal, king sized, unabridged pain in the rump.

On mine, you have to rotate the lifter to get the "notch" near the access point. Then use the pry tool to wedge the lifter downward, and insert the holder. Then reposition the pry tool to get more depression, shove the holder in farther. Repeat until the lifter is jammed as far down as possible. Then I hook under the shim with a tiny flat blade screwdriver to pry it up and grab it with needlenose pliers and snake it out.

Make sure that the wedge is on the bucket and not the shim wont take much to hold in in place

I am rotating the cam until valve is compressed making it easier to place the wedge tool in. Than rotating with the tool in place until it is resting on tool. This was per Wired George's instruction. The instruction from ZI figured tells you to pry. I like George's idea better seemed to be easier.I need to be on the corner of the bucket not the shim in order to be able to get it out, but it seems the diameter of the bucket is too large and the tool keeps falling into the bucket on top of the shim.

It's actually not all THAT hard of a job to do.


You are using the "Batwing" shaped piece to hold the bucket down,right?You insert that piece in place,once you have the lobe pushing down on the shim(all the way down),giving you enough clearance for the batwing,and then rotating the engine over,getting the cam-lobe out of the way.
When you hear ,"Pry",they're referrring to prying on the shim itself,to remove it,with the other tool that has the round ball for a handle.
Like mentioned,make sure you set the little notch in the bucket,to an area that you can get to easily,and then use a pick or a precision screwdriver to pop the shim out.
Have a magnet on hand also...it helps.

Yeah its the Batwing. I am basically doing what you are saying but havng trouble finding room to keep it on the bucket and not the shim when rotating the cam. I am going to give it another wing when I get home from work today.

jbrewer73 wrote:

I have a 77' kz1000 that I am trying to do some valve adjustmnet on. I have the tool from Z1 and an assortment of shims. I tried to wedge the tool reccomended to hold the bucket while removing the shim. However I cannot get the shim out. Is it supposed to be a pain in the rump? I am using a pick and a magnet as reccomended. When I try and pry the shim up the tool that is wedged is holding it down on one side of the bucket. Am I using the tool wrong as this is my first time doing this. What led me to checking valve clearance was when I went to sync my carbs one of the carbs was giving me a reading between 1 and 3 lbs the 3 others were between 8 and 10. The gage shows possible low compression when between 0 and 5. So I am hoping the valve clearance needs adjustment and nothing more seriuos. All input on removing the valve shim and carb sync reading will be greatly appreciated. I was in the garage for an hour trying to get one shim out. First the wedge tool kept popping out, then once it was secured I could not get the shim out. Very frustated.:S

Thanks for your help.

So I am hoping the valve clearance needs adjustment and nothing more seriuos

If not already done, should first measure the clearances on all eight valves with a feeler gauge to determine which if any of the valve shims need changing.

Which tool -- MotionPro "batwing" or oem Kawasaki style?

Batwing ends appear similar, but are different. Could try using the other end. Don't use the pry tool at all.

Rotate crankshaft lobe to push valve down. Insert batwing and hold it in position. While holding the batwing in position, carefully rotate crankshaft to turn cam lobe away from valve so that bucket is held down by the batwing. The batwing barely contacts only the lip of the bucket, without touching the shim, which allows shim removal from the bucket recess.

Good Luck!

jbrewer73 wrote:

I am rotating the cam until valve is compressed making it easier to place the wedge tool in. Than rotating with the tool in place until it is resting on tool.

I'd be afraid the can lobe might bump something as it was turning, I'd hear a loud SNAP and the holder would be sticking out of my forehead.:laugh:

jbrewer73 wrote:

I need to be on the corner of the bucket not the shim in order to be able to get it out, but it seems the diameter of the bucket is too large and the tool keeps falling into the bucket on top of the shim.

That's the hard part.

Yes,it CAN be tricky,that's for sure.
Keep at it,and you WILL get it.
Or just come up to my place,and I'll help ya(bring beer).

could be oil under shim holding it down

I was able to get the shims out last night and replace. I just needed to get the tool positioned right. After that it was a piece of cake.

Thanks all.