KZ900 Tranny Gear Alignments???

Hey all,

While waiting to find a crankcase set (Mark 1122) I did receive back an e-mail from Jay to contact him tomorrow. He's fairly sure he has some... Big Kuddo's...

I started looking at all the workings of crank and transmission gearing. In review of the OEM Shop manual and Haynes manuals I have there doesn't seem to be any mentioning of aligning all this up.

Example, I'm fairly confident that I have it in neutral (free spin on the drive shaft), shift to 1st & 2nd no problem, seems to be working. Then nada after that, almost as it is no in 5th gear and theres no more to go.

So, either somethings whacked or I have a miss alignment meaning rotation of the gearing... Or as I was originally concerned with I HAVE NO FREAKIN CLUE AS TO WTF I'M DOING!!! Why did I listen to my old friend... should have just left the SOB alone... hahahahahahaha...

Anyone have a blow up image with all this in the lower case, alignments of some sort, arrows, shaft markings etc...

Actually learning a whole slew of things about these beautiful machines... As frustrating as it may be it will be all worth while in time...

Old Man Rock

Seems the shift fork tabs are jamming on the shift drum groves. Even with the shaft drive w/gears out they hang up.

Well, I guess braking open the cases was inevitable....

The KZ GOD's are pissed off at Old Man Rock... :pinch:

OMR

it is easy to miss aligne the gears on the bench.if 1 gear slides sideways a tad the side pins will grab the next gear.
put it upside down on the bench with the pan off and check if the right gears are meshing or if another is catching.
u have the cases slit and the top is off right?
if i recall ,doesnt the motor have to be rotating to get to 3rd gear, due to the shift balls in the shaft.

The output shaft has to be rotating to shift to second. The motor doesn't have to be rotating, you can spin the shaft by hand and shift it.

"output shaft has to be rotating to shift to second. The motor doesn't have to be rotating, you can spin the shaft by hand and shift it."

That's what I was thinking... Here's where I've come up with so far.

In review of the shift forks they have stamped numbers on them, T 5 (clutch side of casing)& T6 (CC sprocket side of casing). OEM research depict that these two forks should be identical, matching part numbers.

In removing the Shaft Drive (clutch shaft) with gears and going through the gear shift mechanism I can only get through 1st & 2nd gears with both shifting forks connected in place on the output shaft.

In leaving T5 disconnected off the Output Shaft then I can get through all the gears even with the drive shaft in place. Not easily mind you but it will shift through the pattern. Seems T5 is binding and when I hit the top gears it won't slide over enough...

It's as though the two forks aren't working in unison thus binding.. Swap the shift forks I believe is the way to go and possibly the shift drum as well...

Hell might as well since I'm in here anyways... I don't want to have to go through this (splitting cases) again...

Larry, I'll PM/call you later on those cases...

Thanks for the help all,

OMR