tensioner how to adjust or set after head gasket and o-ring replacement

Ok ya'll so i'm down to the home stretch(lord willing and the creek don't rise)got the cams back in all lined up and the tensioner on the top up to torque specs how do i ajust the tensioner at the base of the block(haven't recieved the repair manual yet so really countin on you guys)

Well in this diagram for your bike,they show 2 different styles,but they are both spring-tensioned.I'm almost positive that yours is the bottom one shown in the pic.
Basically,once you have the housing bolted on(with the 2 bolts)you loosen the locking nut,and loosen the bolt on the side,and the spring will automatically take up the tension.
Do this a few times though.Do it the 1 time,and MAKE SURE you tighten the locking bolt before you turn the engine over!...rotate the engine a few times,and then loosen off the locking NUT and BOLT,and let it take up any other slack.
Be sure to tighten the locking NUT,after you've snugged up the 10mm BOLT.
Take your time,and be sure it's tight.

While you have the tensioner out of the bike(if you do)...take a look at where the locking bolt makes contact to the shaft of the tensioner(the flat side),and if it's chewed up at all,clean any burs off of it.If there ARE some serious marks,the bolt can snag those areas,and it will FEEL like it has reached it's peak,but hasn't.
Good luck.

Cam chain tensioning (from the manual) :

1. Remove ignition cover
2. Turn crankshaft clockwise 2 complete revolutions (use 17mm bolt on end of shaft). Continue to turn crankshaft until the timing mark on crankcase lines up with the corner of the timing advancer plate TRAILING the "T" mark for cylinder 2/3. Sight through the hole in the contact breaker point plate to see timing mark and corner of advancer plate.
3. Loosen locknut and bolt, spring will tension the cam chain.
4. Tighten adjuster bolt to 5-6.5 Ft-Lb (6.8 - 8.7 N-m)
5. Tighten locknut. Replace ignition cover


Peace,
-OlTimer

I'm going to be tensioning the timing chain here myself this weekend.

Question is, why do you have to go through the effort of turning over the engine by hand and lining up timing marks? You wouldn't think that where the engine is in it's cycle would play a role in how tight the chain is. You can't just loosen the adjuster and then tighten it again to lock the bolt in place?

In the picture above, my bike uses the tensioner shown on top. I have a '79 LTD 1000. I can't just loosed bolt #28 and then tighten it again?

The reason is that by turning the engine over manualy, you make sure that ALL the slack is in a position to be taken up by the tensioner. If you have any slack on the other side of the cam gears, the tensioner can't remove it, and you will/ may have a loose chain.

Peace,
-OlTimer

I doubt it makes the least difference whether you start at TDC... the point is that you want to make sure that the tensioner finds the point with the most slack. Hence, a specific starting point and two full turns. That will definitely make sure you find one revolution of the cam chain.

The spec point I suppose is to be sure max slack in the chain will be in the rear of the engine so the tensioner can spring load adjust. 78 and earlier are manual, 1979-up with a 6mm bolt tightened flush with the tensioner body are fully automatic and you never need to fool with these if working.

do your self a favor and just go and buy yourself the APE manual tensioner and follow the instructions to the letter and force yourself to check it from time to time when ever you do an oil change would be good everybody is always trying to skip the proper steps it usally takes longer and parts get broken. that is why manuels were invented in the first place.