Split Cases and replace parts for the F^@$ of It...

All I meant is that if its done right it will be as tough as an anvil and last forever. What you get off of is up to you and your wallet. You could put a stock 1000 cylinder & pistons in and have 1015cc's

these motors are pretty much bulletproof,ive seen plenty of them with well over 30,000 miles that didnt need anything other than a valvejob gaskets and a set of rings.on the other hand ive also seen some with 10,000-15,000 miles that were suitable for door stops it just depends on how well it was taken care of up till this point.id say pull the pand and give it a good looksie and if it looks solid run it,but atleast check the oil pump really good and change the cam chain out while your in there if its going to be just a driver.if you plan on hotrodding it id get more technical and weld the crank and do a few more tricks to it.

if you plan on hot rodding it

Nope, too old for that any longer... Will I get on her here and there, well ya but nothing enough to make me piss myself...

Nose wheelies, uhm NO, makes poopy pants.... Me no like poopy pants... :woohoo:

Ok, since all ready have them open, bearings, all CAM related parts (sprockets, chain, guide, idler, tensioner etc...), any screwed up tranny gear or shift fork of course, seals and main bearing, heavy duty cylinder studs(YES)and main bearing studs (possibly)...

Seems to be quite a list... Dad to daughter, Sorry honey, no college for you, need bike parts!

Thanks all,

OMR

Too old ????? Ive got a 64 year old body and a 20 year old brain, thats a 42 average right ? Crap even thats old !

hahahahahaha... Yeah big 50 in a couple of months...
I really don't feel it but you know, it's the way it goes.

I don't heal the way I use to so I'll be cool with going 60-80mph cruising on a nice strong motor. When needed (Harley or some other ass wipe (Jap bike included)), open her up and leave them wonder WTF just happened.

Other than that, no poopy pants.... See a theme here...lol!

OMR

To place a face with a name...

Sounds like you've got it all figured out omr .the stock cranks and tranys are good for up to 1100cc's at least. since u are not going to launch it u will not have any trouble breaking anything.
sounds like u have found all the week spots.
1.trany.only weak spot is the shift forks. they can get bent or warn and cause miss shifts or come out of gear. if it shifts good now they should be fine.
2.cam rollers and guides. they can work fine now but there rubber will be hard and dried up and a good candidate for failure.cam chain guides like to break.
3.cam chain. have to split the cases to do this right.imo.u can use a cheeter link hear but that is up to u.
4.oil pump.not likely to fail but slowly ware.take it apart and measure all clearances. then come back for advice from the guys hear.
5. bearings. pretty tough .dont usually go but u never know.
6.crank.should be fine .if u are going 1100cc or launching it ,welding would be recommended.main bearing plate and studs is to reduce crank twisting when launching at the drags with big cc motors and big tires.main bearing cap must be machined.
7.clutch basket.the springs in the back of basket get week and loose .then they break and add a little extra viscosity to the oil.u have to break the cases to inspect them.APE sells a kit to replace them.I can help u hear if needed. been there done that.
8.head. Valve seals ,guides ,valve job,springs. only if needed.u can replace the seals and springs easily with minimal tools. u need to make 1 tool though. pmp me if u do this.
9.heavy dudy cyl studs are recomended if u raise the compresion . this allows u to torque the head tighter.40ft.lbs.
10.what else guys?

Old Man Rock wrote:

if you plan on hot rodding it

Nope, too old for that any longer... Will I get on her here and there, well ya but nothing enough to make me piss myself...

Nose wheelies, uhm NO, makes poopy pants.... Me no like poopy pants... :woohoo:

Ok, since all ready have them open, bearings, all CAM related parts (sprockets, chain, guide, idler, tensioner etc...), any screwed up tranny gear or shift fork of course, seals and main bearing, heavy duty cylinder studs(YES)and main bearing studs (possibly)...

Seems to be quite a list... Dad to daughter, Sorry honey, no college for you, need bike parts!

Thanks all,

OMR

main bearings?have you looked at how the crankshaft is put together?:laugh: i wouldnt get all excited about heavy duty studs and all that stuff.i realize APE JAY makes money on that stuff but im sure he would rather make money selling you parts you really need which tends to lead to a return customer rather than a one shot deal.i will retire to my basement now as Jay turns his death ray on nebraska!but i might add if APE did actually have a deathray it would be the worlds fastest!:woohoo:

if your going this far the only thing i would like to add is to have your head cleared for larger cams now.
better to have it done and never need it then be without it in case you decide to go with bigger cams later.
the list is long on what you can do now in case you decide to up the ponies later.
maybe convert it to shim on bottom now also?

and ape cylinder studs are cheap insurance imo.

"head cleared for larger cams now."...
Yep, if required...

I'm still debating on which cam I'm going with but I'm fairly sure I'm sticking with the following from Dynoman.

118 .365 283° Performance street cam for stock engines. Stock base circle. 60-082 new cam $329.95

They also have a .395 version but hell at this point might as well go with the K410's.

Based on my age, riding style and such I believe the .365 will be a more suitable fit for me. Strong motor, will get up and go when asked but not so in your face aggressive... I'll leave that to the youngsters here in the forum.

Again, me no like poopy pants! :X

OMR

mtkawboy wrote:

Too old ????? Ive got a 64 year old body and a 20 year old brain, thats a 42 average right ? Crap even thats old !

Hey, I resemble that remark! :blink:

@ OMR - Best luck with the rebuild - let us know what you find, eh?

Peace,
-OlTimer

I'm having one hell of a time finding the specifications off the OEM camshafts for comparison to new CAM... I even have the Kawasaki Shop manual on this old girl and nada...

I'll just measure the damn thing and see what I come up with... CAM Height (heel of cam to nose) - Base circle...

Here's what I found...
119 .384 276° Street or turbo.
Broad overall power range. Stock base circle.
60-242 new cam $329.95

118 .365 283° Performance street cam for stock engines. Stock base circle. 60-082 new cam $329.95

110 .395 284° Good mid range and top end power for hot street. Use with big bore pistons and performance valve springs, available separately. Stock base circle
60-092 new cam $329.95

Then of course... :evil:
K410 .410" LIFT 266deg. Duration @ .030"

Hot street and strip thru 1100cc. Great road-race grind. Best all-around cam available for 1015/1075cc motors. APE valve springs required. Top shims okay. Will not work with stock pistons. Std (1.110") base circle. One of the most popular Kawasaki cams ever sold. $389.95

As can be reviewed, just need to figure out based on my riding style what I'm really looking for.

Questions to the KZ gods and guru's....
"Use with big bore pistons and performance valve springs"
I understand the need for the stronger springs but BIG bore pistons/Will not work with stock pistons? My Wiseco 1015cc kit is on the way so does this fit this profile/remark?

If I grow some balls and go with the K410, special grind/modification to the head required?

Oh decisions, decisions....
In you face raped ape or strong but not pull you off the damn bike....

OMR

They are showing specs checked at .030 lift instead of the normal .050 to make it harder to compare cams. Theres a formula out there to convert it but Ive long since lost it. Maybe someone else will have it. Stay with the milder cams for street riding, the larger just move the torque peak up higher where you seldom ride. A torquey bike is a lot more fun to ride