Clutch replacement

Hi Zedders,
About to replace the clutch on my 77' z1000. Any tips or is it an easy job. Thought I would give it a go instead of paying up.

Cheers Oz::

It's real easy. Don't sweat it.
After you get all the plats out, look at the steel plats. They are stamped.
Feel the edges, one side is sharp. one side not. Told ya real easy.
I doesn't make any differentness witch way you put them in as long as they are all
going the same way. I use-lie reverse them from the way they came out.

If you have a way to bead blast them to take the shin of is best.
Thats how I do it. Some people will use a sanding block and 400 grit emery cloth.
If you sand them remember you are Not trying to remove stock.
Just take the shine off...
Good luck

XENU

Ozzyzed wrote:

Hi Zedders,
About to replace the clutch on my 77' z1000. Any tips or is it an easy job. Thought I would give it a go instead of paying up.

Cheers Oz::

Replace the seal on the crankshaft or you will have an oil leak afterwards.

Ozzyzed wrote:

Hi Zedders,
About to replace the clutch on my 77' z1000. Any tips or is it an easy job. Thought I would give it a go instead of paying up.

Cheers Oz::

If not already done, would first perform clutch pushrod adjustment (through access hole in sprocket cover). This is NOT about slack in the clutch cable.

Good Luck!

Cheers Fellas,
Will give it a go a let you know how I went. Have just ordered the disks from ZI Enterprises (actually cheaper from the US then here in Aust!!). The other thing is I'm getting a mixed opinion about what spark plugs to use, would like you opinions.

Cheers Oz

I like NGK B8ES
IM sure others will have some different suggestions.
Buy a manuel, Kaw is best take a look on the auction sites.
KZ1000 manuel are not that hard to come by.
Let us know how it all goes.

XENU

FastKaw1 wrote:

...Buy a manuel, Kaw is best take a look on the auction sites. KZ1000 manuel are not that hard to come by....

Meanwhile, here's an excerpt:

Clutch push rod adjustment -- Need and Purpose

The FSM covering Z1 and KZ900 includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch push rod adjustment at 2000 mile (3000 km) intervals and explains the need therefor in separate text, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:

Besides cable stretch, clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment, with a decrease in push rod play. Due to this wear, the push rod gradually moves closer to the clutch release lever (at the lower end of the clutch cable) until it touches the adjusting screw. When the rod is touching the screw and therefore has no play, the clutch will not engage fully and clutch slippage will occur. Note that the clutch push rod does not necessaily have play just because the clutch hand lever has play, and so hand lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.


The FSM covering '77-'79 KZ1000's includes a periodic maintenance chart requiring clutch adjustment at 5000 km intervals, and explains the need therefor in slightly different language, which explanation is quoted verbatim as follows:

Clutch plate wear also causes the clutch to go out of adjustment. This wear causes the play between the push rod and the adjusting screw to gradually diminish until the push rod touches the adjusting screw. When this play is lost, the clutch will not engage fully, causing the clutch to slip.
NOTE: Even though the proper amount of play exists at the clutch lever, clutch lever play alone cannot be used to determine whether or not the clutch requires adjustment.

---

end of excerpt

---

While the clutch may indeed be worn out with plates needing replacement, it isn't uncommon to overlook or be unaware of the clutch pushrod adjustment feature, especially without a manual. It is worrisome to see anyone of unknown experience, without a manual or failing to consult a manual (and in doubt about which plugs to use), proceed with clutch disassembly and plate replacement, without first being aware of and considering the clutch pushrod adjustment.

Where both (1) clutch cable slack adjustment is perfect, and (2) clutch pushrod adjustment is perfect, and the clutch still slips, suspicion is certainly toward the plates being worn and needing replacement. But other things can also cause slippage, even with proper adjustments and good plates, such as glazed plates or improper oil being used in the crankcase.

Good Luck!

One note: when my bike had maybe 45k of city riding miles on it, the clutch started to slip and I assumed it was worn out. I ordered a new disk set and springs and installed them.

I checked the original disks and they were fine (still measured about 80% of original thickness), but the springs had gotten weak over time and gradually the clutch slipped. The new springs were much stronger.

I am about 99% sure replacing the springs alone would have fixed it, but since a disk set was only about $80 back then, I changed the whole thing.

Also before you put the steel plates back in take a mirror or similar piece of thick glass and lay every disk on it one at a time. This is to see if the plate is warped. It will kind of rock back and forth if it is way screwed up but if it is only a little you should still be able to see it. I use a mirror because it reflects the space in between the surface of the glass and the disk which makes it look twice as much so its easier to tell. I think that Z1 actually send an extra one with just in case you have one thats out. But maybe I'm wrong.

Hi boys
Got me a manual and got myself a soooooooth clutch! Did what you said and adjusted the clutch screw and with some fine tuning presto. :woohoo: