KZ250 Starting and RPM Fluctuation Issues?

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27 May 2008 08:27 #216140 by kRAYz Rider
KZ250 Starting and RPM Fluctuation Issues? was created by kRAYz Rider
Hello,

I just purchased a 1980 KZ250 as my first bike and am excited to get into the sport! The bike is in great shape asthetically, but I don't have a lot of mechanical experience and am reaching out to ya'll for some help.

1 - Starter. There is only electric start on this bike. Is there an after market for a non-electric starter? Also, when using my starter, there is occasionally a loud mechanical clank or two after I release the starter button. Is this normal? What is it and is it harmful?

2 - RPM fluctuation. When I start the bike, I need to use the choke and it often will wind up for a second or two to between 3000-4000 RPMs then go really low and die. After doing this (dying) a few times, I am able to start it, let it warm up for a bit and it seems to ride fine. What's going on? How do I either prevent the dying and RPM flucuations or fix it completely?

Thanks for your insight. I'm loving the bike and hope that these aren't major issues.

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27 May 2008 17:05 #216254 by JohNLA
Replied by JohNLA on topic KZ250 Starting and RPM Fluctuation Issues?
Welcome to the site.

I am not positive but usually there are few after market non consumable items for smaller displacement bikes when new. So I doubt there are many for ones a quarter century old model. Best to buy a new battery and go from there. Wall Mart has them cheap as well as auto part stores.

Hard to say what the metal sound at start up is without hearing it or given more clues.

It is typical for these bikes to be cold blooded but it should not die once started unless you are pushing the choke in to soon or to far.
Have the carbs been synced?
Valve clearances checked?
It may sort it self out with time and riding or it may need cleaning and or a rebuild.

s49.photobucket.com/albums/f255/JohNLA_photo/1983%20GPZ%20550/
83 GPZ 550 Stock with 3600 miles_83s.
83 GPZ 550 4-1,pods,Mikuni 36,000 + miles

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28 May 2008 07:59 #216367 by kRAYz Rider
Replied by kRAYz Rider on topic KZ250 Starting and RPM Fluctuation Issues?
Thanks for the insight and the welcome. It's nice to have some resources out there to tap into.

I haven't had any work done to it. Hopefully it will clear up. If not, I guess it's a rough welcome to the sport, huh?

Thanks again.

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28 May 2008 08:34 #216371 by saxjonz
Replied by saxjonz on topic KZ250 Starting and RPM Fluctuation Issues?
Carburetor boots almost always seem to leak and carbs should be taken off and cleaned. Boots may be leaking at seal or may be cracked and for sure valve clearances. Leaking boots make the rpms go up and down randomly. Depending upon how much you paid for bike may decide for you if you work on it yourself or pay to have someone do it right. Cam chain may need adjusting. Are you up for taking it into the shop? You may spend some good money. Make sure you really like the bike. Or you can try to learn to do it yourself. You can maybe do the carbs and silicone the boots yourself to make it run a little or a lot better but you should take it to someone to have it checked out.
I know a little bit not too much. I don't know how to gauge valves. I can clean carbs and check the boots but to sync them and get them dialed in I have no experience. I don't think you could make it worse if you got a manual and carefully did it yourself but if you are not the careful type who can follow the book well then for sure have someone do it right for you. A bike that runs like that is less fun than a PITA to ride and may just frustrate you away from riding. Carb cleaning and tune up can run about 500

79 LTD B3
80 LTD B4 1075 kit JE Pistons .410 cam grind, Bassani, 31 keihin CR Specials...
1980 Z1R, 2002 ZRX1200, 2003 ZRX1200

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28 May 2008 09:21 #216375 by JohNLA
Replied by JohNLA on topic KZ250 Starting and RPM Fluctuation Issues?
Air leaks should be checked for first.
If the bike has been sitting then a good carb clean is in order but no point synching them until valves have been set.

Valve clearance check is one of the hardest maitenence jobs on a MC and therfore the first thing I do.

You will need a manual and a gasket. Checking is done inside the top of the engine with a fealer gauge. Find your clearance specs and get a gauge that will work. You might get lucky and all will be good from here and you can button it up. If things are out of spec it gets trickier.

On mine, adjusting is done with shims under the bucket to create factory specified clearances. You buy($5-$12) different thickness of shims to create the perfect clearance. There is a tool for measuring the thickness of the shims if the printed size is gone.

The problem is very few dealers carry these shims for sale to the public. In my case I had to order them and added days to the job waiting for them to arrive.

Can be done by someone experienced in a couple of hours.
First timers should estimate a couple of days.
Again these estimates are if you have or can get the shims.
I bought a few extra non stock sizes to have for next time.

s49.photobucket.com/albums/f255/JohNLA_photo/1983%20GPZ%20550/
83 GPZ 550 Stock with 3600 miles_83s.
83 GPZ 550 4-1,pods,Mikuni 36,000 + miles

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