Engine Knock On Start Up? Whats Cuasing this..

Bullitt03737 wrote:

...oil was seeping up past the outermost valve cover bolt. Its like its getting hot and "boiling" out. Is there anyway pressure could build up inside? Ehh. Ill probaly just ride it and wait for it to blow up. I dunno. I dont want this to turn into a money pit!

Am thinking the new valve cover gasket will resolve the leaking issues.

Although tedious, should carefully and painstakingly remove all traces of old gasket from both mating surfaces and without damaging either mating surface, and avoid leaving any remnants or traces of the old gasket behind inside where they may possibly obstruct oil passages. This is sometimes the most time consumming phase of the job when replacing the valve cover gasket.

Should not need any sealant on either side of the new gasket. Just replace it dry.

May be okay to re-use the end plugs. When reassembling, may sparingly use a little silicone sealer on the end plugs. Be careful none of the silicone can ooze out into the inside, because excess can break away and obstruct oil passages.

At normal operating temperatures, the valve cover is expected to be way too hot to touch, even when riding in cold weather.

Is an accessory oil cooler being used?

Good Luck!

If a source for the new gasket is needed, here's a good one.

Click here > Z1E Gasket

Good Luck!

[Click on image for larger view]

No oil cooler on it. Now sure how to install it or where to get one..

Bullitt03737 wrote:

I have a new gasket coming. //// I dont want this to turn into a money pit!

I hear you, OEM cover gaskets for my twin are expensive. I make them out of gasketr material from Pep Boys. Takes about 45 minutes, saves me about $20. Work great.

Thats an excellent idea to make your own gaskets. Ill have to make a "master" to copy from.

Bullitt03737 wrote:

Thats an excellent idea to make your own gaskets. Ill have to make a "master" to copy from.

The cheapskate way..... speak from experience.... is to use the cover to draw the outside outline then use the remnants of the old gasket to do the inside lines and holes.

The noise becomes a consistant tick after it warms up. What do you guys make of this?

Bullitt03737 wrote:

The noise becomes a consistant tick after it warms up. What do you guys make of this?

cam, lifter, cam chain.

Valve clearances spot on?

noise may be cracked piston skirt, they get quieter after a few seconds because the crank throws some oil onto the skirt and into the crack, giving it a cushion.

Im going to check the clearances in just a few days.

All The valve clearances seem to be within spec. But when I pulled the plugs out the were all white. But as I stated Earlier in this topic they were nice and tan... Ive noticed popping recently and it has coincided with my fuel filter bending from becoming soft for somereason. (Im guessing Seafoam). My question has now become could the constriction of the fuel filter be cuasing all the fuel levels in the floats to become lower thus causing aleaner mixture? Also when the bike is cold it dosent seem to want to idle at 1000RPM's but after she warms up it will idle all day long at a 1000..Is this a problem?

These bikes don't like to idle in the cold until they are good and warmed up. I wouldn't be concerned with that bit. Popping seems to be a reliable sign of too much air. I would check for a vacuum leak if you have played with the carbs at all. Check the little vacuum caps, carb boots, etc.The fuel filter becoming constricted may possibly be causing a lean mixture. I would say replace the filter regardless and see if that clears up the lean mixture issue.