KZ750 twin.....Soo slow.

superboosted wrote:

Well...both pipes are hot..but it is a two-one.

....the advancer is rusty,but moves freely,i will clean it anyway.

Also setting the timing with the light like the manual suggests maxxes out the three screws.It is turned all of the way clockwise,and still looks to need a touch more?

And the points are set correctly,i think? .35 correct?hard to know for sure... :dry:

Whoa! You have the plate rotated all the way clockwise? That's fully advanced on the twins, something's wrong here, there is a small roll pin that sticks out of the crank to act as a locator pin for the advancer, is it there and not sheared off?

You sure that the little levers on the inner side of the advance weights are located in the notches at the base of the points cam?

-How would I know if it was 180 out?It would still have spark wouldn't it?Just at the wrong time?

-I re-gapped the points to your spec..how do I clean um?

-And when it was running,I did use a timing light to set the timing,it ended up needing to be all the way retarded (counter-clockwise) to line the pointer up with the mark like this..

-V
F||T


You guys are GREAT! I come from fuel-injection,electronic ignition and Big turbos..

This is all new to me

superboosted wrote:

...how do I clean um?...

The idea is to remove any oil residue, lint or any other type crud from in between the points. Okay to use most any quickly evaporative type cleaner on a piece of cloth or cardboard pulled between the points such as electrical contact cleaner spray, acetone, alcohol, etc.

If pitted, okay to first lightly dress the points (before final cleaning) with a point file or folded piece of very fine sandpaper. Just place between points, lightly press the points together against the file (or sandpaper instead of file) and pull out the file (or sandpaper). Repeat as needed until the point surfaces appear smooth and flat.

Both dressing and cleaning the points -- usually a quick and easy process.

Remember -- It's important to gap the points before setting timing, because gap has an influence on the timing.

Good Luck!

So would it still have spark 180 out?

bountyhunter wrote:

superboosted wrote:

Well...rebuilt the advance mechanism,and now she wont run


Its nice and free now...i dont know.

Those can go back on the crankshaft 180 degrees out and it won't run at all that way.

Guess how I know that....funny how something with a 50% chance of going on wrong will go on wrong 100% of the time.

so just trial and error?It WOULD still have spark,correct?

Not 100% positive but I can't see any reason that there wouldn't be spark if it was 180 degrees out. I would think there would be some way to test it but as I'm sitting here I the only thing I can think of would be to put a light or ohm meter on the points as if you are static timing it and then pull the spark plugs and watch for top dead center. The light should go off (resistance goes to infinite) just a little bit after tdc. Just remember that the engine rotates backwards. Counterclockwise when looking at it from the timing plate side. Can anyone verify if this will work??

Alright,the little timing cam was 180 out...I was mis-understanding...Lemme go tinker some more.

:laugh: I want to ride this baby later!

Alright,she runs now...Cant seem to get enough adjustment out of the three screws on the spark advance?Anybody ever run into this?

Runs a little better now just still awful down low,as in I have to slip the clutch to pull out. :dry:

Wonder if anyone has ever removed the advancer without putting it on backwards at least once?

As soon as I cranked it and it fired backwards through the carbs, I realized instantly what I'd done

Did you remove the advancer and check the roll pin on the crank?

And set the points at .014"-.016" (not mm)?

Yup set the points...

Checked the roll pin..

Just has nothing down low....Idles,starts,revs just fine...


....Could the cam chain have skipped a tooth?

Never seen nor heard of a 750 twin cam chain slipping a tooth, but first time for everything I guess.

Take the plugs out and tell us what they look like.

While you're there (the most expensive words around), remove the plug caps from the wires and check the resistance of the caps, and between the two spark plug wires. Every 750 twin I have had arrived here with bad plug caps (excessive resistance).

Just in case you were talking about the cam chain skipping a tooth in relation to the ignition timing, the timing is taken from the crank, the cam has nothing to do with it.