How to remove broken stud that has broken bit inside?

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17 May 2008 16:30 - 17 May 2008 16:34 #214220 by squints
i've busted a few bolts and it just takes time and a little luck to get them out. heres what works for me..

You should be able to drill that bit out just the same.. if needed use a punch and make a indent in the dead center of the exposed stuck bolt. Drill into bolt with a small drill bit. After hole is made, get an appropriately sized easy-out and a hand chuck from the hardware store. Tap the easy-out into hole(may have to use a rubber/wood mallet to get it in far enough) and turn by hand with chuck. Start with drilling a small hole into the bolt, you can always increase that size BUT BEWARE TO NOT DRILL OUT THE THREADS ON THE ENGINE HEAD!.

If all esle fails, you can completely drill out the bolt and threads on the head with a slightly larger drill bit than the stuck bolt. And using the same handchuck and a theading tool, rethread the drilled out hole.

have fun.

traded my classic Kz's for a 2001 Kz1200r

Upstate NY
Last edit: 17 May 2008 16:34 by squints.

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17 May 2008 16:36 #214221 by squints
whoa, steell, that sounds awesome, definately trying that next time i break a bolt...

traded my classic Kz's for a 2001 Kz1200r

Upstate NY

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  • saxjonz
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17 May 2008 20:44 - 17 May 2008 20:46 #214254 by saxjonz
steell wrote:

Use clay (modeling clay, play dough, etc) and build a pocket shaped dam around the hole, then mix up some alum and water into a thick slurry (thin enough to pour). Pour the alum slurry into the pocket you built up around the hole until the hole is filled. Let it sit overnight and see if there is anything left of the drill bit or the bolt. May have to do it twice to dissolve all the bolt.

Alum should be available where swimming pool supplies are sold.

Sounds crazy, don't it? It works and won't damage aluminum.

I will have to try that. I just put on a new pipe today and it seems to work fine for now but I want it right so I will try this first and then if that doesn't work I will try squints method. I just went today to a machine shop and they told me I didn't have to take the head off of the bike but that I could bring in the whole engine so I figured if those ideas you gave work would save me a lot of hassle and extra work. Have to find out where to get alum powder around here now. I will call around to pool places tomollow.
Thanks

79 LTD B3
80 LTD B4 1075 kit JE Pistons .410 cam grind, Bassani, 31 keihin CR Specials...
1980 Z1R, 2002 ZRX1200, 2003 ZRX1200
Last edit: 17 May 2008 20:46 by saxjonz.

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19 May 2008 06:23 #214514 by enormiss
You can still weld it sunk in, the weld puddle will bring it up to the nut
It will however erode the aluminum some.
A centerpunch and drill will eventually get it out, buy a reverse drill bit and it may eventually spin out while drilling.
I like the sound of that alum, can't hurt to try.

81 750 LTD
96 DR 350
94 DR 350
S. Jersey

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19 May 2008 07:27 #214520 by ronjones
The problem w/trying to drill out a stuck drill bit or stuck easy out, is that these are extreamly hardened metal and it is practically impossible to drill out the hardened metal. I've got one, w/broken off easy-out, in the front sprocket cover that I've tried just about every type of drill bit, except diamond, and have hardly put a scratch in the bit. I'm gonna try Steve's alum trick the next time.

'82 KZ750 CSR, M1 twin. Mac 2-1 exhaust, K&N pods, 17tooth drive sprocket, Mikuni BS-34 carbs w/#47.5 pilot jet and #125 main jet, Canadian XS650 needlejetjet needle, Wired George's coil mod.
Barrak, Nancy and Harry says: Welcome to the United Soviet States of America, Comrades

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19 May 2008 09:28 #214541 by galaxian
can you use a very small cutoff wheel to cut a groove and then use a screwdriver with a visegrip around it to turn it while you apply pressure? I know you said it broke off flush but a tiny tiny cutoff wheel, one that has been used may just do it for you.

1977 KZ1000A1, 1979 KZ650 C3

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