Don't Trust CLICK Torque Wrenches

All the talk about stripped cam bolts reminded me: IMHO, the CLICK torque wrenches can't be trusted for calibration. They have the rotating dial that increases torque and a scale on the shaft.... and neither of the ones I have is correct. I think the scale is "shifted" up or down slightly depending on where the dial adjuster "takes up" and starts pulling on the spring.

Anyway, I leared that a long time ago and whenever I use a CLICK wrench, I calibrate it first against a beam wrench using sockets that will connect the two together at the head.

I still use a click wrench when I have a bunch of bolts in an inconvenient place that have to be torqued (cam caps, valve cover, oil pan) but I calibrate the wrench first.

With the camshaft caps, I think you have a bolt that strips maybe 10 - 20% above the specified torque value so I would never do them without checking the wrench first.

I also have that sneaky feeling that the 'click' wrenches are suspect and I periodically check mine against a 'known' to be sure. What I have found is that the smaller wrench (inch/lbs) is much less prone to error than the larger wrench (ft/lbs).

a lot of times it is how you store the wrench,, if you back it down to zero everytime you should not have any problems, if you do not then the spring will change over time and cause them to be off

Ive never had a problem with my snap-on one. And i used it everyday for the past 3 years.

Good point im sure that turning them to zero makes a big difference. I always do.

The calibration will be off if the "click" type wrench is used to loosen any bolts, or if its not returned to zero when stored.

The problem with mine is they were never zeroed accurately. They don't start to "engage" at the place where the stamped scale says "0". I suspect it offsets the scale. I may fool around with them and see what's up.

ive had a craftsman digitork 1/2" drive more than 25 years without a problem,remember its a torque wrench not a breaker bar;)