Low compression cont'd

Bicycle Lee wrote:

another random question:
What is this bolt called? In the upper left corner of this picture. My brother was explaining how a torque wrench worked and he broke this damn thing off:laugh:

Was the wrench still calibrated after you got finished beating him over the head with it?

haha... yeah. I gave him 100 ft/lbs of whoop ass over the head.
I heard it snap and said "What was that?" and he replied "Something I have to buy you another of." haha
We looked through the manual but couldn't narrow it down. I guess I'll just have to head to the boneyard and see

Bicycle Lee wrote:

another random question:
What is this bolt called? In the upper left corner of this picture. My brother was explaining how a torque wrench worked and he broke this damn thing off:laugh:

Your brother was obviously using the time-honored redneck technique: Turn it until it strips, then back off 1/2 turn.

But actually, it's your fault for inexcuseably failing to have on hand an original genuine Black Forest brand torque wrench. These wrenches have no equal, and are scientifically calibrated to the precise German Virgin Standard, which in most applications specify the Guttentite setting.

Hope this helps.

haha... he didn't even have a chance to strip it cuz the thing snapped like a twig.
No matter what wrench it was, I still don't know what the hell this bolt did...

bountyhunter wrote:

Could be, but you could be getting blow by the rings even if they are new. According to the references I read, most blow by does NOT occur at the ring-wall interface, it's in the grooves of the pistons. The pistons are aluminum and the ring gaps wear due to the motion of the rings as the pistons go up and down. As the space between the rings and piston increase, blow by increases. New rings in old pots is better than nothing, but may not seal really well.

Thank you for that information. When I get around to opening her up again, I'll take a look at the piston grooves and see if they are within spec.

Skyman wrote:

bountyhunter wrote:

Could be, but you could be getting blow by the rings even if they are new. According to the references I read, most blow by does NOT occur at the ring-wall interface, it's in the grooves of the pistons. The pistons are aluminum and the ring gaps wear due to the motion of the rings as the pistons go up and down. As the space between the rings and piston increase, blow by increases. New rings in old pots is better than nothing, but may not seal really well.

Thank you for that information. When I get around to opening her up again, I'll take a look at the piston grooves and see if they are within spec.

You won't believe the burned on crap you'll find in the grooves.

Bicycle Lee wrote:

haha... he didn't even have a chance to strip it cuz the thing snapped like a twig.
No matter what wrench it was, I still don't know what the hell this bolt did...

That part is the oil passage plug.

With engine OFF, the plug may be removed, and an oil pressure gauge screwed into the hole to show psi when the engine is running. Kawasaki had a special oil pressure gauge tool for this purpose. And aftermarket suppliers have long offered a small decorative chrome accessory oil pressure gauge to relace the plug, which gauge is intended to be left installed for those who like the looks of it or want the ability to readily check the oil pressure at any time. The decorative chrome aftermarket gauges remain available and frequently appear on eBay.

Good Luck!

Patton wrote:

Bicycle Lee wrote:

haha... he didn't even have a chance to strip it cuz the thing snapped like a twig.
No matter what wrench it was, I still don't know what the hell this bolt did...

That part is the oil passage plug.

With engine OFF, the plug may be removed, and an oil pressure gauge screwed into the hole to show psi when the engine is running. Kawasaki had a special oil pressure gauge tool for this purpose. And aftermarket suppliers have long offered a small decorative chrome accessory oil pressure gauge to relace the plug, which gauge is intended to be left installed for those who like the looks of it or want the ability to readily check the oil pressure at any time. The decorative chrome aftermarket gauges remain available and frequently appear on eBay.

Good Luck!

Is it possible to install an oil temp gauge in this plug? Do they make ones that will fit there?

ok.... I just got my bore gauge in the mail (from ebay of course). But it didn't come with any instructions... I know I sound like an idiot, but how exactly do I use this thing? It's a Central Tools #6462

well, did you get a setting fixture with it, it holds the gauge and allows you to " zero " the gauge in for what ever size bore you are using it for.

well just read the pdf instructions,, you use a outside mic to set it to the bore, you have to rock the gauge between the mic to set it correcty to zero , then slide it in the bore and rock it the same way to read the bore size.

I was used to the type that had a fixture to hold the bore gauge and set them,

I measured the bore on all four cylinders and none were fouled or out of true whatsoever. So pulled all the pistons off to check the ring gap.... as I suspected the rings were worn. The best was #3 but it was still on the high side of specifications. 1 and 2 were the worst, fitting upwards of a .025mm feeler gauge...
Ordered new rings and I'm excited to give it a go...

Bicycle Lee wrote:

I measured the bore on all four cylinders and none were fouled or out of true whatsoever. So pulled all the pistons off to check the ring gap.... as I suspected the rings were worn. The best was #3 but it was still on the high side of specifications. 1 and 2 were the worst, fitting upwards of a .025mm feeler gauge...
Ordered new rings and I'm excited to give it a go...

Is the wear on the rings or in the piston grooves? That's a steel (rings) versus aluminum (pistons) contest so I would think the piston would lose....