TDC Piston stops

Degreeing cams with adjustable sprockets calls for using a piston stop to locate TDC. Is having the piston stop threaded completely (sitting flush) against the the cyclinder head needed to get TDC? Looking over my video from Web cam it doesn't say.
Thanks

The reason for the piston stop is so you can find true TDC, all it has to do is stop the piston at some point before TDC, mark the degree wheel, rotate in opposite direction until it stops, mark the degree wheel, divide the number in half, gives you true TDC.

all the stop does in "stop " the piston, just make sure the stop does not move during rotation

thanks.

Using a degree wheel is the most accurate method in cam timing, what about ignition timing? Im using a Dyna2000. The timing marks on the crank dont line up TDC. Making it hard to accuretly set timing. Has anyone experienced this? and what are some things that can be done. Hope this make sence.
Max


Just checked plugs, has to be timing for my engine over heating

KZG1 wrote:

Using a degree wheel is the most accurate method in cam timing, what about ignition timing? Im using a Dyna2000. The timing marks on the crank dont line up TDC. Making it hard to accuretly set timing....Just checked plugs, has to be timing for my engine over heating

Am using Dyna S and am unfamilar with Dyna 2000, or maybe mis-reading the question. But believe the T mark or TDC mark is not used for ignition timing. And that the F marks are used for ignition timing, at least with the Dyna S. If the Dyna 2000 uses the T marks for ignition timing, I gladly stand corrected.

Good Luck!

dont quote me on this, but I think the mark is set for the proper amount of timing advance, not a TDC mark

BSKZ650 wrote:

dont quote me on this, but I think the mark is set for the proper amount of timing advance, not a TDC mark

That's it..., the "F" mark on advancer unit, at idle speed, should line up with the mark on the crankcase.
Above 3500RPM, the two little parallel lines to the right of the "F" mark, should center on the crankcase mark.
Hope it helps.

Page 2...note the relative positions of #6(Advanced Timing Mark) at low speed, and at high speed.
Good luck;)

KZG1 wrote:

Using a degree wheel is the most accurate method in cam timing, what about ignition timing? Im using a Dyna2000. The timing marks on the crank dont line up TDC. Making it hard to accuretly set timing. Has anyone experienced this? and what are some things that can be done. Hope this make sence.
Max

The actual ignition timing is controlled by the dyna2000 box. It's just taking a reference off the crank sensor, I'm not sure what it has to do with TDC. There should only be one way to attach the black aluminum timing rotor to the crankshaft. (If I remember correctly.) Set the timing statically by turning the engine with a wrench to see that the LED on the box (set to test mode) lights up exACTLY when your selected timing mark gets to the reference. Which timing mark? Check the manual; my 1171 cc 10.5:1 2-valve motor uses the "40" for 40 degrees btdc. First set the rotation of the base of the sensor to align the right-hand sensor, then adjust the left side magnet so that the LED lights up when the other "40" is at the reference.

Just checked plugs, has to be timing for my engine over heating

Could it be running lean?