Remove valve guides

I got some cracks in two of the intake valve guides.
As I understand I need to heat the head up, and drive the guide out with a hammer. Then reheat and chill the new one when it goes back.

I also need to reaming the new ones after.

Is this the right procedure? And I presume that I need to change them? Or?

Is it just me,or does it look like that guide has been mashed into the head.
It looks like something was out of alignment...ever had those guides replaced before?

It would explain the stress-cracks on the guide.:ohmy:

Replacing the guides isn't a simple task,and I personaly wouldn't tackle it without the proper tools...in other words,I'd pay to have it done professionaly(which I did a couple years back).

Seriously though...it DOES look like that guide has been working it's way in the direction of those cracks.
It that guide in there TIGHT?

yes roy you need to replace them for sure.you will need to heat the head up to 450 degrees for 45 mins.then drive them out from the combustion chamber side,there should be little snap rings on top that would keep you from driving them out from the cam side.if z1 ent. doesn't have the guides try
www.blackdiamondvalves.com/Default.htm
do you have the driver?there are manual(hand hammer) and air hammer powered ones.if not check here.
www.goodson.com/store/template/product_d...6ff50585f4e736ce2472
and use the same 450 degrees for 45mins.to reinstall them.it probably would help to chill the guides for the same amount of time,but i never have and have installed countless guides.there is a press fit lubricant that i bought from goodson and use.it really helps.let me know if i am not clear on something.

Sandy wrote:

Replacing the guides isn't a simple task,and I personaly wouldn't tackle it without the proper tools...in other words,I'd pay to have it done professionaly(which I did a couple years back).

+1. As Dirty harry said: "A good man's got to know his limitations." Putting in valve guides are beyond mine.

BTW, the pro who did my head said that valve guides only wear when they get buggered going in because that puts a side torque on the valve shaft as it goes up and down which wears the sides of the guide.

FYI, properly installed they don't wear out. My guides had 80k on them and they spec'd same as the new ones I bought to go in just in case. Now I have a new set of guides to sell at a discount.:laugh:

Don't forget the new O-ring.

unless you have the proper tools to grind the seats after you install the guides and you need to grind the valves also, then take it to a shop that can do it right, may cost a few bucks but in the long run it will be better

I knew I could trust you boys :laugh:

Sandy:
They are tight. I don't know what their history are....

531blackbanshee:
I got the driver, 7mm to do the job, but as its been said, is it a job for me to do?
They are quit long, is there any chance for them to be out of angle or something after installed?
And the reaming process? How to do?
I will order the proper reamertool if I do it my self...
I have done all the other stuff with valves before, grinding and so on, but never this.



So as BSKZ650 says, I have to to a total grinding after this is done?

The original Kawa bible does not describe this. And not of course Clymer.

bountyhunter:
Well, if you want to sell, and they fit, I maybe will buy

Here is the 7mm driver tool


And the Valve Guide Reamer 7mm

Roy,first of all,I really don't like what I see in that picture bud.
That guide has seen some serious pressure on it.
BTW...what did you have for compression in that cylinder,if you remember?

You're doing a big(and very precise)job,and to do all of that by yourself?
I'm not saying you(or anyone,for that matter)CAN'T do it,but pressing in new guides CAN be tricky.Like mentioned,if they're not bang on,you'll get premature wear.
I considered doing my own,but after doing some homework on the subject,I pulled out my wallet instead.

I don't know,but that head might need some work before putting new guides into it.

Sandy:

I don't know anything about this engine, its a ZX1100-A engine.
Underbucket shims on it as well.

Never been started by me, but the previous owner says it was OK.
I don't know how normal is it with cracked valve guides...
Hmmm:S

Ohhh,it's a ZX motor.:ohmy: (assumed it was a KZ motor)
A performance motor...hmmm...do you know any history on it?
Chances are,Roy,that it's been worked over pretty good,and not babied.
Obviously,I can't say for SURE,but...back to that valve guide...hmmm.

Can you post any other pics of the top-end parts for us to view?
Not sure,but does that engine have rocker-arms?

It is a KZ engine, but you know the differences between American and European/others engine names.

So its a 1983-84 GPz1100 engine I think.