SR650 valve adjustment questions

Hello everyone,
Well, I've finally begun the (heretofore much dreaded) valve lash adjustment to my bike. So far I have measured all my clearences and found that my intake valves were in need of adjustment.
For the record, like many people here have said, the intake clearences have actually become less over time. This may seem counterintuitive, but true. My measurements were about .018mm for the exhaust valves (withing spec...barely) but the intakes were so tight that I could not get my thinnest feeler guage between the cam lobe and the bucket. So, assuming that all valves were at ZERO lash, I removed the camshaft per instructions in my Clymer manual, which turned out to not be that big a deal. I removed my buckets with a suction cup from one of my kids toys...again no big deal. They came out smoothly and appear to be in very good condition, no signs of excessive wear.
Using my measurements I compared to the existing shims, did the math and determined the needed replacement shims. I then went to Z-1 Enterprises and ordered the replacement shims. Hopefully they will be here tomorrow or Monday.
Looking down the road I will soon be installing these new shims and will re-assemble the camshaft and re-measure my new clearences. If my measurements and assembly are correct I should have about .012 - .015mm new clearences when I am done.

I do have a couple questions though:
1. When re-assembling, should I place the shims on the valve keeper first and then install the buckets, or should I place the shims inside the bucket first and then reinstall? I can envision that keeping the shim centered in the bucket and working blind could possibly shift the shim out-of-place and I would not know until later when I remeasured the lash.
2. I have read several comments about the torque spec for the camshaft caps. The book says 8.5 foot pounds, but others have said this is too much and may strip the bolt holes if I'm not careful. This is a big concern to me, obviously I don't want to be too loose or (especially) be too tight and strip out my threads.

There seems to be much more info about performing this valve lash adjustment to the larger engines with over-bucket shims but much less about the details and nuances of this procedure to the under-bucket style engines.
So...anyone with any suggestions or tips on completing this procedure? What torque spec is best? Should I use any type of thread lube...or thread locker...to the camshaft bolts, or should I reassemble dry?

My bike has about 22K miles on the odometer and it appears that this is the first time that this valve lash adjustment has ever been done.

Thanks,
Dave

Hopefully you mean .12-.15mm, not .012mm Put the shim on the valve, then slip the bucket on and that's all there is to it. You've probably already read my recommendation at 5-5.5 ft/lbs. Even at that the exhausts are prone to stripping.

RonKZ650 wrote:

Hopefully you mean .12-.15mm, not .012mm Put the shim on the valve, then slip the bucket on and that's all there is to it. You've probably already read my recommendation at 5-5.5 ft/lbs. Even at that the exhausts are prone to stripping.

I was about to post that: .012mm is 1/2 thousandth of an inch. My bike specs .05 - 0.1mm (.002 - .004" ).

Please don't get that wrong and set your valves under a thou as that is WAY too tight.

davenkids2001 wrote:

2. I have read several comments about the torque spec for the camshaft caps. The book says 8.5 foot pounds, but others have said this is too much and may strip the bolt holes if I'm not careful. This is a big concern to me, obviously I don't want to be too loose or (especially) be too tight and strip out my threads.

My caps also spec at 100 in-pounds (same as 8.5 ft-lbs). I had to take them on and off MANY times because of the nightmare problems I had during the last rebuild. Never stripped anything. maybe I got lucky.

You must have a good torque wrench and do it carefully. I have a "click" torque wrench I accurately set first using a small beam wrench and it clicks right at 100 in-lb, so I know it won't over torque.

You should not need thread locker if you torque the bolts correctly. I would recommend generously applying oil to the valve shims, lifter cup, camshaft and bearing journals when assembling. It takes a while for the oil to get to the top and you don't want to spin them bone dry.

RonKZ650 wrote:

Hopefully you mean .12-.15mm, not .012mm Put the shim on the valve, then slip the bucket on and that's all there is to it. You've probably already read my recommendation at 5-5.5 ft/lbs. Even at that the exhausts are prone to stripping.

Thanks Ron, yeah I was off by a decimal point :blush:
Some of my previous questions became obvious as I performed this task. One thing I can say though is that this adjustment has never previously been done on this bike and was overdue.

I just wanted to let you all know that I completed the valve lash adjustment yesterday. Actually everything went very well. All intake and 1 exh valve valve were re-shimmed and now all valves are .12-.15 mm. I still haven't torqued the cam caps to the final setting, so I know this lash may change slightly but I should be well within tolerences when I'm done. I'm still unsure what final torque I will use due to the variety of answers on this spec...but judging by the look and 'feel' of the cap bolts and threads, I will probably (carefully) start at 6 foot pounds and gradually increase to 8 ftlbs if the 'feel' is right.
I think the most important issue here to to be sure that the torque wrench is ACCURATE. I am not confident in my deflecting-beam wrench so I will try to borrow or rent one this week.

Thanks everyone.