Ape Clutch Kit...........what you guys thinks

Ape Clutch Kit

what do you guys think about this clutch kit. is it any good. and would i need to buy anything else or does it just drop in? i have 79 kz650sr and my clutch is starting to slip under load at high rpms. any help is greatly appreciated. thank you

Post edited by: KZCSI, at: 2008/03/06 09:18

you would be better off to just buy it for jay direct.
cheaper and a extra disc and plate.
plus it's $ 10 cheaper.

kzzone.com/resources/clutches/aprclutch.jpg

he is very good to members here.

Post edited by: kawsakiman, at: 2008/03/05 23:14

or just put a stock replacement clutch back in there,unless youre dragracing it;)

how much would the stock clutch cost? and where would be the best place to buy it

Z1E

Why dont you take out the clutch and sand the steels and frictions, put them back in and adjust your clutch? Cheaper approach?

I agree with Plummen. I put a high performance clutch in my H1 years ago and hated it.

KZCSI

alextoader750 wrote:

... have 79 kz650sr and my clutch is starting to slip under load at high rpms. any help is greatly appreciated....

Your clutch may be just fine.

If not already done, would adjust the clutch push rod (which is an entirely separate thing from slack in the cable).

Adjusting the clutch push rod is a routine maintenance item which cannot be done too often, and often corrects a slipping clutch. In fact, an improperly adjusted clutch push rod is one of the prime reasons for clutch slippage.

Let us know if detailed instuctions would be helpful.

Was remiss in failing to mention this earlier. :blush:

Good Luck!

GPzinfested's 750 Turbo had a Barnett clutch in it when he got it, it was slipping so we ordered new OEM friction plates and sandblasted the steel plates. Works fine now.

When we opened it up to replace the clutch we found several broken friction plates and pieces in the oil pan and on the oil screen. I had read previously that using the Barnett clutch in a 750 Turbo was a "really" bad idea, and after seeing the results I agree.

The oil screen was about 40% blocked by fibers from the Barnett friction plates

When the clutch is fully engaged, the clutch plates are supposed to be held tightly together by the clutch springs.

The entire clutch cable, clutch lever, clutch pushrod adjuster, and clutch push rod itself could all be removed from the motorcycle and the clutch would remain fully engaged with the plates held tightly together by the clutch springs. And the bike would remain rideable (as if with simply a broken clutch cable).

The clutch pushrod functions to push (spread) the plates apart against the spring pressure. A little slack before it starts pushing assures it's not interferring with complete closure of the clutch plates. The clutch pushrod adjustment sets and assures the proper slack. Without the proper pushrod slack, the clutch is more likely to slip, even with a broken clutch cable (or maximum slack in the clutch cable). With excessive pushrod slack, the clutch may fail to sufficiently disengage when the handlever is squeezed, resulting in a "sticking" clutch and/or excessive clunking or lurching forward when the bike transmission is first shifted into low gear.

The clutch cable, when in relaxed position with proper slack (handlebar lever not being squeezed), has no effect toward spreading the clutch plates (disengaging the clutch). Same as if the cable is simply broken.

To disengage the clutch (i.e., spread the plates apart), here's what happens. Squeezing the handlebar lever pulls the cable which pulls the pushrod adjuster which pushes against the pushrod which spreads the clutch plates.

Some slack is also required in the cable to prevent premature pulling on the pushrod adjuster. Having no cable slack is like always keeping the handlebar lever slightly squeezed.

KZ clutches are strong and will endure lots of abuse. Understandably, many bikes may go a very long time without any pushrod adjustment, and possibly never need a pushrod adjustment (or cable slack adjustment either). But if your clutch begins slipping under hard acceleration (not completely engaging) or "sticking" (not completely disengaging), before blaming the clutch, the cure may be a pushrod adjustment.

IMO the better routine maintenance is keeping both adjustments to specs, pushrod and cable. Especially since both adjustments are quick and easy.

As stated in the FSM (factory service manual), the clutch plates gradually wear and go out of adjustment. This wear causes the play between the pushrod and the adjusting screw to gradually diminish until the pushrod touches the adjusting screw. When this play is lost, the clutch will not engage fully, causing the clutch to slip.

Good luck with diagnosing and eliminating slippage in the clutch!

wow thank you for all your responses. i will try adusting the pushrod. but i dont know if that is the main reason why my clutch is slipping. you see what happened was that for storing the bike over winter i had changed the oil and i put in castrol gtx high mileage car oil. one day over the winter it was nice out so i took the bike out for a ride. once i started to get on it hard the clutch started slipping. well i changed the oil and i put 10w40 yamalube and its still slipping but not as bad. could i have fried my clutch plates? i want the cheapest way out. what would that be.

once again thank you

I use castrol gtx all the time and don't think it harmed the plates.

Have no experience with yamalube oil, but if it's synthetic oil, it might cause the clutch slippage.